Nice job.I designed my own similar to those. I had them printed. They work pretty well.
Nice job.I designed my own similar to those. I had them printed. They work pretty well.
Anyone want to explain how this works? I’ve seen a lot of posts but never messed with SWFA zero stop. Now I have a 6x and would like to add a stop.
Baseline description: The turret cap is a closed end tube that is placed over a smaller diameter tube extending up from the scope body with the dialing mechanism inside this tube. Clear?Anyone want to explain how this works? I’ve seen a lot of posts but never messed with SWFA zero stop. Now I have a 6x and would like to add a stop.
Good to know. Thank you.The turret and shims should be the same on the SWFA SS 6X, 10X, and 3-15X. The HD 3-9 turrets are shorter and a different diameter.
Do you have any pictures of the UL turrets? I don't know how they compare.Is it possible to do anything like this to the 2.5-10x32? Not being able to return to zero if I dialed is my only complaint about that scope.
I modeled one real quick based off my 3-9, you got a printer or does anyone else that wants to validate some dimensions? I can email the STL file I tossed together quick.Anybody up for designing some for the 3x9?
The turret doesn’t seem to raise or lower when turning it. So I’ve always assumed shims wasn’t possible, but I figured I would ask smarter people than me.Do you have any pictures of the UL turrets? I don't know how they compare.
I have access to one but it won’t be a super quick turnaround. I have a 3x9 sitting in front of me I can measure and can get a set printing.I modeled one real quick based off my 3-9, you got a printer or does anyone else that wants to validate some dimensions? I can email the STL file I tossed together quick.
Or for anyone that wants to play around with the concept themselves its just a cylinder. I did a 22.5mm OD x 12.5mm ID cylinder. On my scope it appears there is about 7.4mm of deadspace in the cap compared to where my turret bottoms out naturally. Each revolution appeared to be about .67mm. Thus if you needed it to stop at 1revolution above your bottomed out point the cylinder would need to be about 8.07mm tall. Again this was just some quick measurements off one personal scope so considering it a ballpark starting point.
Basically similar measurements as I was getting (I made the cylinder dimensions slightly loose). It more so was saying on my scope it seemed like 7.4mm was dead space (but that might vary for others) and one turn was in the ballpark of .67mm (.64mm you got is right there). That should get someone fairly close as a starting point I think.My caliper apparently sucks as it was not repeating all the measurements. With that take these numbers as a “close” but not accurate measurements.
Also am I missing anything? Maybe someone will get some more accurate measurements as I am not confident in my caliper.
I was getting .64mm for 1 full turn
Sounds like an easy solution for those of us without 3d printers. What's the ebay link?Literally found this website looking for a solution to putting a zero stop shim in my 10x classic mil/mil.
Ended up seeing the dimensions in post #16 of this thread and ordered some nylon washers from China off eBay for $4 per 50.
Size was metric, 12mm ID x 24mm OD x 2mm thick.
I have a 40 minute rail on my Ruger so I was like 3.75 rotations off the mechanical bottom and two of those 2mm washer in the elevation cap now stop the turret .5mil under my 100yd zero.
Don’t know what other SS scopes it would work on but for a classic mil/mil with the rear parallax, it worked great.
Sounds like an easy solution for those of us without 3d printers. What's the ebay link?