Swfa zero stop shims ?

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Anyone want to explain how this works? I’ve seen a lot of posts but never messed with SWFA zero stop. Now I have a 6x and would like to add a stop.
 

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

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Anyone want to explain how this works? I’ve seen a lot of posts but never messed with SWFA zero stop. Now I have a 6x and would like to add a stop.
Baseline description: The turret cap is a closed end tube that is placed over a smaller diameter tube extending up from the scope body with the dialing mechanism inside this tube. Clear?

They fit up in the cap and bump against the tube extending up from the scope body limiting how far down you can dial (which lowers the cap down and creates more overlap).
 

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

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Anybody up for designing some for the 3x9?
I modeled one real quick based off my 3-9, you got a printer or does anyone else that wants to validate some dimensions? I can email the STL file I tossed together quick.

Or for anyone that wants to play around with the concept themselves its just a cylinder. I did a 22.5mm OD x 12.5mm ID cylinder. On my scope it appears there is about 7.4mm of deadspace in the cap compared to where my turret bottoms out naturally. Each revolution appeared to be about .67mm. Thus if you needed it to stop at 1revolution above your bottomed out point the cylinder would need to be about 8.07mm tall. Again this was just some quick measurements off one personal scope so considering it a ballpark starting point.
 

Eluder

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I modeled one real quick based off my 3-9, you got a printer or does anyone else that wants to validate some dimensions? I can email the STL file I tossed together quick.

Or for anyone that wants to play around with the concept themselves its just a cylinder. I did a 22.5mm OD x 12.5mm ID cylinder. On my scope it appears there is about 7.4mm of deadspace in the cap compared to where my turret bottoms out naturally. Each revolution appeared to be about .67mm. Thus if you needed it to stop at 1revolution above your bottomed out point the cylinder would need to be about 8.07mm tall. Again this was just some quick measurements off one personal scope so considering it a ballpark starting point.
I have access to one but it won’t be a super quick turnaround. I have a 3x9 sitting in front of me I can measure and can get a set printing.
 

Eluder

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My caliper apparently sucks as it was not repeating all the measurements. With that take these numbers as a “close” but not accurate measurements.

Also am I missing anything? Maybe someone will get some more accurate measurements as I am not confident in my caliper.

I was getting .64mm for 1 full turn
IMG_3787.jpeg
 

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

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My caliper apparently sucks as it was not repeating all the measurements. With that take these numbers as a “close” but not accurate measurements.

Also am I missing anything? Maybe someone will get some more accurate measurements as I am not confident in my caliper.

I was getting .64mm for 1 full turn
Basically similar measurements as I was getting (I made the cylinder dimensions slightly loose). It more so was saying on my scope it seemed like 7.4mm was dead space (but that might vary for others) and one turn was in the ballpark of .67mm (.64mm you got is right there). That should get someone fairly close as a starting point I think.

If you needed one to stop at 2.25turns (11.25 mils from bottomed) you're looking at a ballpark of ~10.3mm cylinder, so print a range around that height to try depending on how far past zero you want. Or print a baseline 8mm tall one and then 1.7mm, 2mm, 2.3mm, 2.6mm, 3mm etc time shims to dial things in better.

While you can print .64-.67mm height shims they're pretty flimsy, I'd rater add some height to them and knock a bit off the "dead space" cylinder.
 

sndmn11

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The ace shims we use for the rear focus fixed don't seem to work on our side focus fixed, so I ordered a set from the ebay guy. Hopefully they will arrive this week.

I'm jealous of you guys who have a 3d printer!
 
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