Should I free float my Tikka T3 Barrel?

[thesloppy1]

Hey guys, new to hunting and bolt guns. I picked up a T3 lite in 30.06 and tried the dollar bill trick to see if the barrel is free floated. It is not. Afterwards I read that here is a plastic "Brace" 3/4 of the way back to help with stability. Should I break out the dremel and get rid of the support? Will it improve the accuracy? I like to modify everything I own but I don't want to do anything that is going to mess up the functionality of the rifle.

Thanks.

 

[fightthenoise]

Have you shot it? I’d see how it groups first.


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[thesloppy1]

I have. Mainly to sight it in with a few different scopes and ammo. It shoots well. Right around 1 MOA @ 113 yards. (That's all my local range has to offer distance-wise)

 

[FURMAN]

I would free float it.


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[fightthenoise]

The only risk is it shooting worse, and in that case you can always add the pressure point back with some bedding compound. Go for it if you like to tinker.

 

[thesloppy1]

The only risk is it shooting worse, and in that case you can always add the pressure point back with some bedding compound. Go for it if you like to tinker.

I definitely like to tinker.

 

[cmahoney]

Definitely clean up the stock, I am sure Tikka didn’t intend for the plastic stock to touch the barrel at that point. I have a T3 with the factory plastic stock and it doesn’t touch the barrel there.

Stocky stocks has the carbon fiber T3 stocks on sale right now too.


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[thesloppy1]

Definitely clean up the stock, I am sure Tikka didn’t intend for the plastic stock to touch the barrel at that point. I have a T3 with the factory plastic stock and it doesn’t touch the barrel there.

Stocky stocks has the carbon fiber T3 stocks on sale right now too.


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Interesting. I read it was supposed to be completely free floated but also read that a lot of people said theirs wasn't because of that "Support lug". I'm definitely going to cut it down now.

I'll check out stocky stocks. Unfortunately I'm not receiving a paycheck until the Gov't gets their shit together.

 

[FURMAN]

I have seen zero rifles shoot worse with free floating in a properly bedded rifle. Now if you have done load development with a non free floated barrel it will most likely change the load it prefers but once a new load is found it will most likely be more accurate and it will damn sure be less affected by outside influences.

 

[tdhanses]

If you do don’t you have to fill in the stock to stiffen it? Think I remember reading something on this years ago that the Tikka/Sako factory stocks are pretty flimsy and that some broke when using a bipod or something. Can’t remember all the details just something to research, might not be an issue.

 

[thesloppy1]

I have seen zero rifles shoot worse with free floating in a properly bedded rifle. Now if you have done load development with a non free floated barrel it will most likely change the load it prefers but once a new load is found it will most likely be more accurate and it will damn sure be less affected by outside influences.

I'm just using factory ammo so that isn't an issue at the moment. I'm going to have to re-zero anyway. I also believe that removing that touching point will make it more accurate or at least in no way make it less accurate.

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If you do don’t you have to fill in the stock to stiffen it? Think I remember reading something on this years ago that the Tikka/Sako factory stocks are pretty flimsy and that some broke when using a bipod or something. Can’t remember all the details just something to research, might not be an issue.

I'm going to remove just enough material so it's no longer touching the barrel. The plastic angles and lug will still be there for strength, just slightly shorter. I don't see it being an issue.

 

[cmahoney]

I kept the factory tikka plastic stock because mine shoots and I’m cheap. The stocks are plastic without a solid bed but better than a lot of other plastic stocks. If you aren’t worried about weight and do want to upgrade the bell and Carlson medalist is a good option for under $300.


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[FURMAN]

The Tikka plastic stocks are one of the better ones. I think you will be fine with your plan.

 

[tdhanses]

I'm just using factory ammo so that isn't an issue at the moment. I'm going to have to re-zero anyway. I also believe that removing that touching point will make it more accurate or at least in no way make it less accurate.

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I'm going to remove just enough material so it's no longer touching the barrel. The plastic angles and lug will still be there for strength, just slightly shorter. I don't see it being an issue.

But just cause it isn’t touching sitting free running a dollar doesn’t mean it won’t touch when your holding or firing it if the stock isn’t stiff as well. I just wonder if accuracy will drop off.

Personally I wouldn’t mess with it but would get a wildcat composite stock for it and do the finishing work to make that perfect or just shoot it as is.

Tikka designed the stock that way for a reason, old school free floating relates more to a stiff wood stock or modern composite stock. Also some full length bed stocks as well, such as NULA and Forbes, so no free float.

 

[Newtosavage]

Just do it. I have owned four tikkas now and free floated every one of them. All that I got out of it has been consistent 1/2 MOA groups out to 400 yards. I have no idea why they put that tab in the stock but it’s completely unnecessary imo. Also tikka stocks are one of if not the best factory plastic stocks so I don’t see why anyone would replace one. I did own a t3x in ‘06 for a while. With full loads that thing kicked like hell. LOL. Put a limb saver pad on it and it was just tolerable. Great gun though.

 

[thesloppy1]

Just do it. I have owned four tikkas now and free floated every one of them. All that I got out of it has been consistent 1/2 MOA groups out to 400 yards. I have no idea why they put that tab in the stock but it’s completely unnecessary imo. Also tikka stocks are one of if not the best factory plastic stocks so I don’t see why anyone would replace one. I did own a t3x in ‘06 for a while. With full loads that thing kicked like hell. LOL. Put a limb saver pad on it and it was just tolerable. Great gun though.

I did shave down the tab last night. Didn't even need the dremel, my pocket knife worked just fine for the little material I needed to remove. However, now the barrel is touching right before the chamber where the barrel gets fatter. The stock is contacting the sides of the barrel rather than the bottom. Fixing that area is going to take a little more finesse to have it look good and not look like a hack job.

This 30.06 seems to kick a whole lot less than the Remington 760 30.06 that my father gave me, that I got my elk with this year. But, I decided to add a compensator and limb saver anyway in prep for a future 30 cal suppressor. You can easily shoot it all day with no pain at this point. Also, I think the rifle got quieter with the compensator on, contrary to what everyone says about it becoming ridiculously loud.

 

[cmahoney]

If the stock is consistently touching your barrel down near the action don’t worry about it. It was the portion you trimmed that would have been the problem, where inconsistency based on fore end pressure would have come in. Many glass bed jobs include bedding the first inch or two of barrel .



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[Newtosavage]

Personally I got out the dremel and relieved the whole barrel but the area near the action probably isn’t necessary. I just did it because I already had the tools out and stock off.

 

[thesloppy1]

If the stock is consistently touching your barrel down near the action don’t worry about it. It was the portion you trimmed that would have been the problem, where inconsistency based on fore end pressure would have come in. Many glass bed jobs include bedding the first inch or two of barrel .



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After doing some research, this is what I'm thinking as well. Everything forward of the bullet is what is really going to matter. I'll take it out and see how it shoots before doing anymore modifications.

 

[davsco]

funny, sort of, story. have a rem custom ks (since forever) and playing around with it over last winter i checked for free float and was shocked it was not free floated. i mean, that's what you do, right, free float for accuracy... so i sanded down the pressure pad they had put or left in towards the outer end of the stock forearm. took it to the range expecting accuracy to improve some if not a lot. groups went to complete crap, talking 2-3-4 inches at 100. then i did some reading and at least some companies pressure bed their sporter barrel rifles. oooooops. so i built that pad back up and it went back to before. sounds like this is not a problem with tikka's but gotta wonder why they put those pads in.