Undrgrndprdcts
FNG
I'd like to based on all the other aspects of it, but to spend 5-600 dollars to try something with such a strange feature that doesn't make sense to me is a little offputting.You should try one and let us know what you think.
I'd like to based on all the other aspects of it, but to spend 5-600 dollars to try something with such a strange feature that doesn't make sense to me is a little offputting.You should try one and let us know what you think.
If you are truly interested but concerned on the feel of that feature go to town with some cardboard and duct tape to mock it up.I'd like to based on all the other aspects of it, but to spend 5-600 dollars to try something with such a strange feature that doesn't make sense to me is a little offputting.
You could probably turn around and sell it for $750 on here. Maybe not so much in the future tho.I'd like to based on all the other aspects of it, but to spend 5-600 dollars to try something with such a strange feature that doesn't make sense to me is a little offputting.
I should have three arriving in the next week or so. You’re welcome to try them if you’re in CO.I'd like to based on all the other aspects of it, but to spend 5-600 dollars to try something with such a strange feature that doesn't make sense to me is a little offputting.
Because I tried discussing that same topic and got my head bit off.
Edit: I don't think he was asking me a question, was he?
And to get things back on topic, my concern is that trying to stay in the eyebox is going to be harder when you now have a sliding up and down aspect (At an angle) in addition to only moving in and out. Seems less consistent to me.
I have not noticed it to be an issue with a SWFA 3-9 and it has an eye relief that changes with magnification.my concern is that trying to stay in the eyebox is going to be harder when you now have a sliding up and down aspect (At an angle) in addition to only moving in and out. Seems less consistent to me.
Neither one of these has been an issue for me personally. I probably have 3,500 rounds or so through my RokStok on two different guns. I haven’t found a shooting position yet that would make me feel like I’m sliding my face up and down the stock. I’ve really only seen this occur with very novice shooters and that’s with any shape stock.Stay in the eye box when? Before the shot or during recoil?
I had to switch to medium rings for mine.I do the same with “cheek weld”. Not really a fan of that term as so many shooters overthink and put too much focus on this.
UM Tikka Lows are good for me. They aren’t super “low” for low rings. They sit up higher than most other brand “lows” that I’ve seen. I thought I’d want to go with “extra lows” if/when they might come out with those. I won’t need them, the regular lows are good.
If you weren’t in West Virginia I’d let you try mine.I'd like to based on all the other aspects of it, but to spend 5-600 dollars to try something with such a strange feature that doesn't make sense to me is a little offputting.
I mean like getting into your shooting position, whatever that may be. I could see how having everything setup currectly could be just as consistent, like once you slide down to the right spot you are in the correct relief location.Stay in the eye box when? Before the shot or during recoil?
The Rokstok is a well thought out design with a purpose. I'm still waiting for mine, but if it does what it is supposed to, it will be the best hunting stock made.I mean like getting into your shooting position, whatever that may be. I could see how having everything setup currectly could be just as consistent, like once you slide down to the right spot you are in the correct relief location.
I'm still interested, need to do more research on availability.
My phone has been giving me issues, it's annoying.The Rokstok is a well thought out design with a purpose. I'm still waiting for mine, but if it does what it is supposed to, it will be the best hunting stock made.
Not to bust your balls, but you didn't spell correctly correct!
The biggest advantage of this comb is that is allows the recoil pad to be above bore centerline while being being able to keep your optic mounted as low as possible. Physics dictates that this will keep the recoil "flatter". Any increase in consistency in keeping your head on the stock with a traditional comb would be completely wiped out by the muzzle rise penalty.And to get things back on topic, my concern is that trying to stay in the eyebox is going to be harder when you now have a sliding up and down aspect (At an angle) in addition to only moving in and out. Seems less consistent to me.
I doubt the lug can be removed without drilling.Wouldn’t the easy thing be having someone take the height of the lug down?
I'd like to based on all the other aspects of it, but to spend 5-600 dollars to try something with such a strange feature that doesn't make sense to me is a little offputting.
You should be able to pull it out with pliers.I doubt the lug can be removed without drilling.
You should be able to pull it out with pliers.
I just spent 1/2 an hour trying to pull it. Only succeeded in marring the lug. I finally got pissed off, put a hard rubber handle on top of the lug, and used a metal bar in an attempt to tap it in...which turned into hammering hard...which as far as I can tell hasn't moved it. Tomorrow I'll give it another shot with a hammer.
For those who made the recommendation of seating it and letting the action screws pull it down, it's way to high for screws to make any engagement. Even if they were long enough...and I may have some stock maker screws that are...I'm doubtful the plastic bm would hold up very well.