RokStok

[Formidilosus]

I’m probably going to have to pick up one of those. I used to always use offset cheek rests on my Manners stocks and MPA’s, I’d move them to the right to make room for my face to stay upright. A few years ago, I switched to running a low but centered cheekpiece; it worked well in left or right hand use for myself, and was easier for my left handed dad to adapt to when he’d use my equipment.

Currently, I have UM high rings on a CTR stock and it’s a pretty good fit for me. I expect the Rokstock will fit my face and head with those rings pretty well from what I’ve seen. However…a lot of other people shoot my setups, and not all of them share my face shape. One of my more trying moments of the last year of shooting involved spending over 30 minutes trying to get someone to successfully see through my scope in a prone position. So…an option that’d bump up the checkpiece quickly and non-permanently would be awesome.

This won’t be quick adjustable.

 

[Carl Ross]

Copy that.

 

[atmat]

This won’t be quick adjustable.

That’s a funny way of saying “duct tape and cardboard.”

 

[KClark]

I have followed this thread from the beginning and have tried to sort fact from foolishness but I still have a few questions.

What is the angle of the butt in relation tho the bore line?

Has the grip been changed to favor right or is it still ambidextrous like the original Hunter VG?

Will the stock line on the left side cover the make/model/serial # like the Hunter VG or will it be milled lower?

 

[tpicou]

How neon is the limited edition green?

 

[prm]

I know a lot of thought and research went in to this stock. That’s why I’m asking. I’d have to think the reasoning behind that much negative slope was something more rooted in empirical data and/or functional logic than just some “more is better” theory. Or some simple thought that the market wouldn’t support 12 deg a few years ago and it will now.

These guys aren’t Bubbas and seem rather scientific. They don’t do things just because. Logic dictates their preferences. My brain works the same way, and that’s what I’m trying to understand. Why is 12 degrees the functional sweet spot? Where is the point of diminishing returns?

I have not all the pages, but here is my guess. You have to start below the bore in order to allow the bolt to open. The goal is to get the top slightly above so the force of recoil is on the centerline and reduces muzzle rise. To climb the desired amount in the distance available, as driven by LOP, it turns out you need to rise at a 12* angle.

edit: nevermind, I see it was explained on a page I had previously missed. Merry Christmas all!

 

[pattimusprime22]

I’m also interested in this. If not I’ll just buy a t3x and rebarrel so I can have a threaded barrel and drop into this stock.

You can just change out the CTR bottom metal to factory plastic and add a magazine spring and the ctr will drop into the Rokstok.

 

[JCMCUBIC]

Lows.

Note on this. A 1.2 arrived Friday, I came in from hunting Saturday at lunch and started mounting it. Plan was to use a Area419 20 moa rail and APA 30mm lows (.75"). It was going to go in a Stocky's NexGen sporter grip and I wanted it as low as possible. The adjustment housing of the 1.2 sits well below the line of the scope tube. Low enough that the adjusment housing will sit flat on the rail without making contact with the .75" rings. I thought about going through various rings with .82" being the next step up but I just pulled UM lows from another Tikka and swapped stocks to a VG Nexgen to get a touch higher comb....Rokstok will be used for it when it arrives.

Anyhow, realize lows can vary, and with a rail the 1.2's adjustment housing might be an issue.

 

[Umpcoos]

Any chance this stock will be inlet for model 70s in the future?

 

[Brucebarker024]

You can just change out the CTR bottom metal to factory plastic and add a magazine spring and the ctr will drop into the Rokstok.

Good to know, however I don’t own a tikka and this’ll be my first one. Was thinking of the ctr just for the threaded barrel vs a t3x and changing the barrel out immediately to get 5/8x24 threads. However I’d really like to try this stock out.

 

[Marbles]

Good to know, however I don’t own a tikka and this’ll be my first one. Was thinking of the ctr just for the threaded barrel vs a t3x and changing the barrel out immediately to get 5/8x24 threads. However I’d really like to try this stock out.

Personally, I would have a collar added and have a Lite barrel threaded to 5/8x24.

You could get a CTR, then pick up new bottom metal and mag, which would be cheaper than a barrel.

 

[sveltri]

Good to know, however I don’t own a tikka and this’ll be my first one. Was thinking of the ctr just for the threaded barrel vs a t3x and changing the barrel out immediately to get 5/8x24 threads. However I’d really like to try this stock out.

You might look at the Cabelas D-18 version, ss, cerakoted, threaded 5/8-24. Might still be some good sales, I picked up a 243 last week for $950.

 

[Dobermann]

Good to know, however I don’t own a tikka and this’ll be my first one. Was thinking of the ctr just for the threaded barrel vs a t3x and changing the barrel out immediately to get 5/8x24 threads. However I’d really like to try this stock out.

I might be missing something here, but .... the CTR barrel is far heavier than the standard T3X profile, and it's cheap and easy to get it threaded.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

I might be missing something here, but .... the CTR barrel is far heavier than the standard T3X profile, and it's cheap and easy to get it threaded.

Don’t the CTRs come threaded already?

 

[Dobermann]

Don’t the CTRs come threaded already?

Yes, but I don't see how that should be the deciding factor when the barrel profiles - and weight - are so different. Barrel type should be the choice, then thread if needed.

 

[ElPollo]

Good to know, however I don’t own a tikka and this’ll be my first one. Was thinking of the ctr just for the threaded barrel vs a t3x and changing the barrel out immediately to get 5/8x24 threads. However I’d really like to try this stock out.

There’s a whole pile of examples in this forum that document why 5/8” threads aren’t needed. You can run a 1/2” thread adapter for a 5/8” threaded can all the way up to 30 cals with no issues. Thunderbeast is the one company that has made this whole discussion about appropriate shoulder dimensions and it just doesn’t hold water. I have a 5/8 threaded AB Raptor that I regularly use with adapters on 1/2” and 9/16” threads with no issues. If you buy a Tikka, just cut and thread it and shoot it with an adapter.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

There’s a whole pile of examples in this forum that document why 5/8” threads aren’t needed. You can run a 1/2” thread adapter for a 5/8” threaded can all the way up to 30 cals with no issues. Thunderbeast is the one company that has made this whole discussion about appropriate shoulder dimensions and it just doesn’t hold water. I have a 5/8 threaded AB Raptor that I regularly use with adapters on 1/2” and 9/16” threads with no issues. If you buy a Tikka, just cut and thread it and shoot it with an adapter.

Yes you can use and adapter but if paying the money to thread a barrel I certainly would prefer the more robust and concentric threads. That said I am running adapters on my guns I previously threaded 9/16. I just would go 5/8 in hindsight

 

[Salmon River Solutions]

OK, here are the other rails... Arca, Picatinny, and Picatinny Spartan.
Also pictured is the pocket in the stock that allows the Spartan rail to sit flush

I think the Spartan one came out awesome.

Ken

 

[Ram94]

Any Canadians order yet? There isn’t an option to change the Country in checkout.

 

[ElPollo]

Yes you can use and adapter but if paying the money to thread a barrel I certainly would prefer the more robust and concentric threads. That said I am running adapters on my guns I previously threaded 9/16. I just would go 5/8 in hindsight

What you are saying isn’t wrong, it’s just not needed. You can pay the weight tax of hauling around a thicker, heavier barrel that will handle 5/8” threads or you can pay $550 minimum for a custom contoured prefit barrel that is flared and threaded at the muzzle when you a have a perfectly good barrel on your rifle already. I’ve done the latter and my money would have been better spent on an adapter and ammo. The flared 5/8” barrel does nothing that my 1/2” and 9/16” barrels do with an adapter. I’ve got 2-3k rounds through the latter and have had no accuracy issues and no baffle strikes. Do you personally know anyone who’s had a baffle strike from a non-concentric adapter? I don’t and I don’t know of anyone who does either. It’s easy to overthink and over-gear shooting, but the best answer is always to shoot what you have before you decide to invest in a bunch of changes.