RokStok

As long as you are setting up your scope to track properly with the particular level you are using why would it matter at all if that level was slightly different than another level? If the level is out slightly in reference to the guns true vertical but is correct with the scope at what point is that tiny bit of cant going to be an issue? If purposely setup my rifle with some cant but the level and the scope are in alignment (tracking properly) at what point will that cant cause me issues?
Hi BBob, both the topics of levels and cant are heavily debated.

Here's a recent Rokslide thread about this: https://rokslide.com/forums/threads...ght-increases-cant-error-and-how-much.342253/

Snipers Hide also has a long one that gets into the calculations.

I think part of the issue with the debates is that they intermingle ballistics with reliability (or lack of) of the levels themselves, with debates about whether humans can tell cant inherently or not ... for the debates to make sense / do justice, I think all three areas need to be considered together.
 
The trick is that many bubble levels are either incorporated into ring bases or caps, or attached directly to the rail

Yeah, very true. Ultimately, it isn’t a problem if the level and scope are calibrated together. If you put the bubble between the lines and then level the scope on the rifle to gravity, then you are good. At that point you have calibrated the scope to the rifle.

What happens with the levels that are off, is that you now have some cant in your rifle by a couple of degrees. But, if calibrated to the scope, there won’t be cant error.
 
That’s why you can’t throw on a bubble level and trust it.

If you level the scope and then center the bubble, you are good.
That's also a ruger American with what appears to be factory weaver spec Pic rail, Franks literally using a $300 dollar rifle to elaborate a point that things can't be trusted. I've put my digital send it and a starret level across the full length of my zermatt, arc, lone peak, terminus actions they the rails were all true across the top. Buy cheap, cheap is what you get.
 
That's also a ruger American with what appears to be factory weaver spec Pic rail, Franks literally using a $300 dollar rifle to elaborate a point that things can't be trusted. I've put my digital send it and a starret level across the full length of my zermatt, arc, lone peak, terminus actions they the rails were all true across the top. Buy cheap, cheap is what you get.
Do you really think that all of the levels in that photo are accurate, and that the variance shown in them is the result of the action?

And yes, running a single good level across a flat action should give you good results.

I think the point that Frank has made is that not all levels are level. And some name-brand level manufacturers have been shown to be using cheap bubble levels that are not accurate.
 
Is the leather on the comb in post 7 of the locked thread for shooter comfort / in the cold or for height with the pic rail and rings? Or other reason?
Looked like moleskin or something of the like to me. Lots of guys use for additional comfort if the face will be on the rifle all day or to take the bite out of the cold.
 
Is the leather on the comb in post 7 of the locked thread for shooter comfort / in the cold or for height with the pic rail and rings? Or other reason?

Yes to both. The leather helps greatly with comfort in very cold (and hot) weather, and I have them on nearly all of my rifles.

The RokStok is designed so that nearly everyone will be able to get a firm, but not smashed cheekweld and sight picture with low rings on a Tikka. Going to a 20 MOA pic rail plus rings raises the scope about .25” higher than low SM rings. The cheekweld without anything is solid but not smashed. However I prefer slightly more.
Basically relax completely behind the gun and let your head fall full weight on the stock. Open eyes and riase your face about 1/8th to 1/4th of an inch and that is the contact pressure I want- it is not necessary, it is my preference.
 
Hoping it's around 26oz, as initially targeted
Spitballing here. @Stockys may confirm this. I believe the sporter versions are likely to be slightly heavier than the Sendero/multiple dead cat versions. From their earlier description, it sounds like the carbon fiber is significantly thicker on the smaller barrel inlets because the foam core stays the same on all versions. Whether or not that accounts for the extra two oz above their target weight, I can’t say. However, if you want all the extra metal thingys, there is going to be a weight penalty.
 
Spitballing here. @Stockys may confirm this. I believe the sporter versions are likely to be slightly heavier than the Sendero/multiple dead cat versions. From their earlier description, it sounds like the carbon fiber is significantly thicker on the smaller barrel inlets because the foam core stays the same on all versions. Whether or not that accounts for the extra two oz above their target weight, I can’t say. However, if you want all the extra metal thingys, there is going to be a weight penalty.
The m24 will be lighter and we are looking to cut some of the weight of the bedding material where the rails mount. We started with more and now that we have a physical rail we should be able to shave a couple of ounces as well up there since we now know exactly where it’s going to need it.
 
The m24 will be lighter and we are looking to cut some of the weight of the bedding material where the rails mount. We started with more and now that we have a physical rail we should be able to shave a couple of ounces as well up there since we now know exactly where it’s going to need it.
The carbon shell doesn’t lay up over into the barrel channel does it?
 
It does but then most out of it is cut out for the barrel channel inlet.
Got it. So say you get the factory Sporter contour and sand/hog it out a bit to match a 2b or #3 type contour, is there any risk of sanding through the carbon shell?
 
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