NEED HELP (beginner reloading)

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Apr 3, 2024
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So I’m trying to order stuff to begin reloading for my new 6.5 creedmoor tikka as well as my 223. I have absolutely nothing. For some who just wants to reload 2 cartridges at the start (223 and 6.5 creed), what are the essentials to begin reloading. Again I have absolutely nothing. Starting completely from scratch. I had AI make me a budget reloading list haha, but I want real world advise. I have absolutely no friends or mentors to help me begin. Thank you!

1. Lyman 50th Edition Reloading Handbook - $25 (4.7/5) - 6.5 Creedmoor load data

2. Lee Precision Challenger Breech Lock Press - $90 (4.5/5) - Reliable single-stage press

3. Lee Precision Quick Trim Case Trimmer - $25 (4.6/5) - Efficient case trimming

4. Lyman E-Zee Chamfer/Deburring Tool - $15 (4.7/5) - Smooth case mouth prep

5. Lee Precision Auto Prime Hand Priming Tool - $25 (4.5/5) - Reliable priming

6. Hornady Digital Caliper - $35 (4.6/5) - Accurate measurements

7. Frankford Arsenal DS-750 Digital Scale - $30 (4.5/5) - Precise powder weighing

8. Lee Precision #2 Shell Holder - $5 (4.8/5) - Fits 6.5 Creedmoor

9. Lee Precision 6.5 Creedmoor 2-Die Set - $40 (4.5/5) - Quality dies

10. Lee Precision Perfect Powder Measure - $25 (4.5/5) - Consistent powder throws

11. Frankford Arsenal Quick-N-EZ Case Tumbler - $50 (4.7/5) - Brass cleaning

12. Reloading Tray (MTM Universal) - $12 (4.6/5) - Organizes cases

13. Cleaning Media (Corn Cob/Walnut) - $18 (4.5/5) - For tumbler

14. Primer Pocket Cleaner (Lyman) - $12 (4.6/5) - Cleans primer pockets

15. Case Lube Kit (Hornady One Shot) - $18 (4.7/5) - Prevents stuck cases

16. Powder Funnel (MTM Universal) - $8 (4.5/5) - Spill-free powder transfer

17. Safety Glasses (ANSI-rated) - $12 (4.8/5) - Eye protection

18. Bullet Puller (Hornady Cam-Lock) - $25 (4.6/5) - Fixes loading errors

19. Powder Trickler (Lyman) - $20 (4.5/5) - Fine-tunes powder charges

20. Dial/Digital Comparator (Hornady) - $40 (4.6/5) - Measures headspace/seating

21. Loading Block Holder (Frankford) - $15 (4.5/5) - Stabilizes tray

22. Brass Caliper Gauge (Lyman) - $25 (4.6/5) - Checks case length

23. Reloading Bench/Stand (Portable) - $100 (4.5/5) - Stable press mount
 
Looks like you are in the right track if Lee is the brand you wish to use. The only other component you would need is a manual balance beam scale to double check your digital one, especially when it’s a cheap electronic scale.
 
I love my Redding T7 turret press, but if I had to start over today with a budget press I'd try to find a Forster Coax. I also never use my case gauges - I just bump the shoulders and see if they chamber without fuss.

You'll need the Hornady case gauge tools for a caliper (both headspace and bullet seating comparators with the rod/modified cases).
 
This is a good, no-frills list. Off the top of my head I didn’t see a step in the process missing. Some people may tell you to go ahead and buy some area 419 stuff or other premium tools. I for one appreciate the method of starting with solid, entry level tools. You can absolutely use them to create ammo that is better than factory and tailor it to your rifle. This way, you actually start reloading and you learn about the tools and see where you may want to upgrade down the line. This way you get an appreciation for why the premium tools cost what they do.

Some people may give you grief about the one shot. I really like it, it’s easy, and I’ve only ever stuck 2 cases out of thousands. Both of these were PRC cases. Tons of surface area and low body taper. Just have to make sure you give those types of cases enough and LET IT EVAPORATE before sizing.

If you have a headspace comparator and set of calipers, you don’t need the case length gauge, it’s just a crude “do I need to trim” tool.

I would strongly recommend getting a very sturdy bench. It doesn’t have to be expensive and you could even make it. But it must be sturdy. I would reccomend spending extra here over just about anything else.

Welcome to the hobby!
 
Holy crap that makes my head hurt.

RCBS Rockchucker reloading kit
Hornady case comparator and ogive comparator tools
RCBS/ Redding/ Lyman FL sizing dies
Imperial case wax.
Bullets of your choice and powder of your choice
That will get you started
 
I would get one of these kits:





After getting the kit and working with it a bit, get the individual tools you want to improve your efficiency or desires.

The reason I linked to Grafs is that they have flat rate shipping, which helps when buying presses, however if one of the other sites offers free shipping, then get it from them.
 
Since you list a lot of Lee stuff, I would point out you will save money to get a Lee kit - will come with a lot of the things on your list.

I started with one of those 20 years ago, and still use a bunch of stuff from that kit to this day (powder dispenser, scale, primer pocket tool, chamfer tool, etc).

If was starting out today on a budget, that's probably still what I would start with.
 
Go with one of the kits above and it’ll get you started. Hornady has a promo, if you buy one of their kits (just ensure it’s one on their “Get Loaded 2025” list) and you can get 500 projectiles for $20.
 
I think your list looks pretty darn good. The only thing I didn't see on there, was an actual weight for calibrating and testing your digital scale. I also think you'll end up wanting a power chamfer/deburring tool, but it's not strictly necessary. Have fun, pay attention to detail, be safe.
 
That's the best initial list I've seen.
My case trimmer I use the Lee cutter and lock stud. I spin it on a cordless drill there's no adjustment, there's no thinking. I got a double ended inside/outside chamfer tool and I do all that garbage with one spin of the drill. And I anneal with the same setup pretty successfully.

I use an RCBS Rock chucker II and I love it. It's single stage, it's not fast, but it's rock solid. I got started with the rock chucker reloading kit.

With availability and cost of components changing, there are a whole lot of people that have quit reloading. Make sure you look for a whole setup on eBay. Most of the stuff lasts forever unless it rusts. You might save a lot of money.
 
I would ditch #1 and watch videos / get load data from Hodgdon, Nosler or other sites.

Get the Lyman multi-tool for #4 and 14. Can get nylon brush to screw in also.

Ditch #11 and 13, use 00-000 steel wool for the necks and alcohol / rag to remove one-shot after sizing.

I would skip the scale/powder measure/trickler and look at hornady or equivalent electronic dispenser. Look at gun show or online for cheap balance beam that still works (can do this over time) to check powder dispenser occasionally.

Not sure you need 21 or 22.
 
Get rid of anything on your list for cleaning cases. It's not needed. The only case cleaning you actually need to do is a tight nylon brush for inside the case neck before or after sizing, and damp paper towels for wiping lube off post sizing. Just clean your sizing dies somewhat regularly.... This is where the Lee dies kinda suck because you have to get the expander mandrel collet nut friggin tight. Otherwise, they're good.

You only need one set of calipers for all case measurements. I recommend the Hornady analog dial calipers. No batteries, accurate and reliable.

Get rid of the trickler. Use the Lee scoop to trickle with the pan on your scale.

Get a check weight for your scale.

Don't obsess over exact precision numbers for your reloading, whether it is charge weight, case length, shoulder bump. It doesn't matter one bit. The biggest thing you can do is make your process the most efficient as possible so you spend more time behind the trigger and less reloading.

+/- 0.1gr should be fine
+/- 0.001 shoulder bump should be fine
I haven't found length to matter within an ES of 0.005.
Don't worry about concentricity at all

This will get you accurate and uniform enough loads to easily hit out to 800 if you can shoot, your powder/bullet combo is good, and your scope and rifle are set up and zeroed properly.

I have a pile of reloading garbage I've wasted money on over a few years only to find that the biggest difference maker is time behind the trigger, solid scope and rings set up properly, and a really really tight action screw torque.
 
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