Nock Tear Low

[wapitibob]

I wouldn't tear the bow apart. I would dbl check to make sure my arrow was above 90 by 1/16" or after I set my top cam to hit first. Check the tiller too.
If you're still tearing low I would start looking at the rest and stuff like that. Nock low isn't a common problem.

 

[J-Daddy]

Couple things...
1= With those massive broadheads they can change the static spine on the arrow because of length...it's normally not an issue but those are some big heads and it can happen...Before you rip all your hair out try a shorter profile head like a Shuttle T or Slick Trick.
2= Another thing a lot of people overlook is the actual bow grip...I can not shoot a Hoyt with a grip on it to save my life. Every Hoyt I get the first thing I always do is jerk the grip off of them and then wrap the riser in black athletic tape. With the 1 piece Hoyt grip on there I scatter arrows like a shotgun, but with no grip the arrow groups will suck right together.
I've had bows where I was ready to wrap them around a tree because I couldn't get them to tune..After adjusting everything on the bow a million times I'd pull the grip off an everything would instantly come together.

 

[trkyslr]

So it'll shoot bullet holes at 10' through paper...I'd forget about it and just broadhead tune the bow and go hunt with it. People put way to much stock in paper tuning.

X2..........

 

[JNDEER]

I was goofing with my bow today and found that if I put my BH about 2-3" high at 40 and I take about 1/4-3/4 turn on the top limb and get it perfect. Give that a shot and see if turning the upper limb in 1/4 turns (loosen) to see if that helps.

 

[Brandon Pattison]

I wouldn't tear the bow apart. I would dbl check to make sure my arrow was above 90 by 1/16" or after I set my top cam to hit first. Check the tiller too.
If you're still tearing low I would start looking at the rest and stuff like that. Nock low isn't a common problem.

Tried the top cam first, didn't work.

 

[Brandon Pattison]

Couple things...
1= With those massive broadheads they can change the static spine on the arrow because of length...it's normally not an issue but those are some big heads and it can happen...Before you rip all your hair out try a shorter profile head like a Shuttle T or Slick Trick.
2= Another thing a lot of people overlook is the actual bow grip...I can not shoot a Hoyt with a grip on it to save my life. Every Hoyt I get the first thing I always do is jerk the grip off of them and then wrap the riser in black athletic tape. With the 1 piece Hoyt grip on there I scatter arrows like a shotgun, but with no grip the arrow groups will suck right together.
I've had bows where I was ready to wrap them around a tree because I couldn't get them to tune..After adjusting everything on the bow a million times I'd pull the grip off an everything would instantly come together.

I cannot try those broadheads as I have to use Deep Six components.
I cannot take the grip off as it is too long, I tried it a while ago.

 

[Brandon Pattison]

top cam should hit the stop first by about 1/8 inch for "most" people with hybrids. Your pressure point on the grip can change that. They rarely hit at the same time because of the spread between the grip pressure point and your nock point location.

My preference would be to reduce the size of that nock set by half also. I like that setup best but don't have quite the spread on the loop that you have. That particular loop setup provides for downward arrow pressure at full draw. You might be getting a little arrow/rest reaction at the shot.

You should be able to get a nock high tear pretty easily unless you have an unnatural influence such as that downward pressure or an unusual nock travel driving the back end down at the shot. The top of my nock set is roughly 3/16" up from 90 deg most of the time. That gets my arrow a little bit above 90 and I group tune from there.

I reduced the size of the nockset to half, didn't work.

 

[wapitibob]

what do you get for a measurement to the top of that nock set with your bow square?

 

[Brandon Pattison]

what do you get for a measurement to the top of that nock set with your bow square?

Not sure as of now, Bob.

I want to thank everyone for their help, I have learned a lot on here and trying this and that. Last night my computer and ISP had me at the end of my chain as I had I longer description but lost it upon attempting to quote and upload. I did just go back to where I started and sighted in my broadheads.

JNDEER, I wish I would have tried that before I spent two hours sighting in my broadheads. I assumed that the tiller would be the same cranked all the way down since the limbs are basically parallel. I shall check it tonight (or at least do some trial and error).

 

[a3dhunter]

Even cranked all the way down tiller may not be the same, mine was off by almost 1/4".

 

[JNDEER]

Not sure as of now, Bob.

I want to thank everyone for their help, I have learned a lot on here and trying this and that. Last night my computer and ISP had me at the end of my chain as I had I longer description but lost it upon attempting to quote and upload. I did just go back to where I started and sighted in my broadheads.

JNDEER, I wish I would have tried that before I spent two hours sighting in my broadheads. I assumed that the tiller would be the same cranked all the way down since the limbs are basically parallel. I shall check it tonight (or at least do some trial and error).

If your BH and dialed in and your FP are only hitting low, for the time being I personally would say that is fine. If you can put the BH where you want it, than it will kill.

Yep, but even if the tiller is perfect, you can still toy with the adjustments. Remember your setting up the bow to your shooting style, form etc. so it does not have to be super perfect.

 

[Brandon Pattison]

I checked my tiller and it was PERFECT. I called Hoyt and they said to loosen the lower limb bolt 1/2 of a turn. I did this, nothing. I did a full turn, nothing. I even tried it on the top limb bolt, nothing.

 

[a3dhunter]

I checked my tiller and it was PERFECT. I called Hoyt and they said to loosen the lower limb bolt 1/2 of a turn. I did this, nothing. I did a full turn, nothing. I even tried it on the top limb bolt, nothing.

I would think it is your form then. If none of the adjustments make a difference on the bow, tells me it isn't the bow.....

 

[barmar65]

Check your launcher on your QAD rest,if its not the 1 that says TL1 on the side that faces you, try switching it to the TL1. It is different in that the area where the arrow rests in the launcher is higher than the other and works better on some hoyt models. Also those injextions are very thin and you may need to try a different rest set up for them.

 

[Brandon Pattison]

I would think it is your form then. If none of the adjustments make a difference on the bow, tells me it isn't the bow.....

I guess it could be that. I was coached by a national champ and have shot 54 Xs with this bow with a quiver full of arrows on it and 66 pounds on a 300 round. That being said, consistancy has nothing to do with 'proper' form.

For the sake of conversation, what would the form issue be? As I tried to explain earlier, if I take the grip off of the bow the drawlength is too much. Right now it is perfect and I don't want to twist up my string to get it right and have my peep and D-loop turn on me.

 

[Brandon Pattison]

Yes, it did come with another launcher. I thought that it was a spare and not different.

I just got off of the phone with Hoyt and he suggesting swapping out the launcher as well as I might be getting contact on the bar on top of the rest with my top vane. Fingers crossed!!!!!

Check your launcher on your QAD rest,if its not the 1 that says TL1 on the side that faces you, try switching it to the TL1. It is different in that the area where the arrow rests in the launcher is higher than the other and works better on some hoyt models. Also those injextions are very thin and you may need to try a different rest set up for them.

 

[barmar65]

Goodluck. I know the frustrations .

 

[Brandon Pattison]

I didn't change it. It would put my top vane in contact with the top guard. Tell me why I should. I now hate my bow.

 

[GWBowhunter]

i had a low tear on my element, essentially same setup as yours 70# 29" injexion 330s cut to 28", i ended up taking the top speed nocks off and my up and downs cleaned up, shoots bullets 3 yards all the way to 20.

 

[barmar65]

You would have to lower the rest to make up for the difference in the launcher heights. The arrow maybe contacting the upper bar already,also you may need to look at how much down force you put on the arrow. If you torque up on the release it maybe making the arrow tail down when leaving the bow.