Nock low help

[MT257]

Have a rx8 set at 28”@70lbs. I had it shooting fine with factory strings but peep kept rotating. Ordered new strings set it up and to spec. I cannot completely get rid of of a low tear. Tried lowering rest not much difference. Finally took my nock sets out and re-leveled things. Still nock low started moving d loop up. When I finally got some decent paper tears I was way too far out of level. Arrow is rip tko 300 with 100 gr point 50 gr insert 10 gr collar. No noticeable nock pinch while on draw board. I’ve had this for 6 weeks which I bought from dealer. photo is of where it ended up being where I almost had a bullet hole, but stopped messing with it because it was so far out of level. You can see in the photo progression of me moving d loop up tears slowly got better. I do have a Mathew’s integrated rest I plan on throwing on to see if it’s a rest issue, but not what else there is to do. Cams are the same mods are same. Nothing as far as cams, feels like one is ahead of other or spongy at full draw. I’ve shot it with more pressure on heel of hand as well as more with web of my hand same results. Tried 300,340,400 spine arrows same tail low result. Just kinda at the end of ideas.

 

[sndmn11]

Add two brass nocks to the speed nocks on the bottom cam

 

[MT257]

Add two brass nocks to the speed nocks on the bottom cam

Does it matter where? Are all brass speed nocks equal?

 

[Billy Goat]

You say cams don't feel like one is ahead of another, haven't checked in a drawboard?


It sounds like cam timing to me.

Make sure your string stop has some gap at brace. If it's too tight, can produce nock low.

 

[MT257]

Yes I’ve checked timing on draw board. String stop has daylight between string and stop.

You say cams don't feel like one is ahead of another, haven't checked in a drawboard?


It sounds like cam timing to me.

Make sure your string stop has some gap at brace. If it's too tight, can produce nock low.

 

[The big greasy]

You say cams don't feel like one is ahead of another, haven't checked in a drawboard?


It sounds like cam timing to me.

Make sure your string stop has some gap at brace. If it's too tight, can produce nock low.

How much string gap from the string stop?

 

[Billy Goat]

How much string gap from the string stop?

I actually like a lot, more than 1/8". Always heard credit card width.

They don't need to be there, it quiets the bow, makes it feel "deader" in hand. But as they wear, it can change the tune, so I typically leave a decent gap. 1/4" wouldn't bother me a bit.

 

[The big greasy]

I actually like a lot, more than 1/8". Always heard credit card width.

They don't need to be there, it quiets the bow, makes it feel "deader" in hand. But as they wear, it can change the tune, so I typically leave a decent gap. 1/4" wouldn't bother me a bit.

Ok because the other day I noticed mine was loose and slid way forward, so I put mine just touching the string at rest. Maybe I should get some gap in there.

 

[Billy Goat]

Yes I’ve checked timing on draw board. String stop has daylight between string and stop.

Does cam timing look correct at brace too?


It looks like you should be fine on drop away cord tension, but too much can play with those things. I just let them self set. Leave plenty of tail out with a knot on the end, looks similar to how yours is.

Do you shoot with a lot of heal pressure?

Have you tried putting a longer bar on the front with some weight? Not what should be used to fix it, but might help eliminate your grip as an issue. I know you didn't have issues before with it, but sometimes we do weird things we don't notice.


Might just be you need someone else to put eyes on it, cause you are too close to it.

 

[MT257]

Does cam timing look correct at brace too?


It looks like you should be fine on drop away cord tension, but too much can play with those things. I just let them self set. Leave plenty of tail out with a knot on the end, looks similar to how yours is.

Do you shoot with a lot of heal pressure?

Have you tried putting a longer bar on the front with some weight? Not what should be used to fix it, but might help eliminate your grip as an issue. I know you didn't have issues before with it, but sometimes we do weird things we don't notice.


Might just be you need someone else to put eyes on it, cause you are too close to it.

I let the rest set the tension. Set it multiple times comes back to same spot on cord I’ve marked that with sharpie. I was gonna throw a different rest on the bow just to see. I’ve tried with more heel pressure and more in the web of hand. Same results

 

[Billy Goat]

I let the rest set the tension. Set it multiple times comes back to same spot on cord I’ve marked that with sharpie. I was gonna throw a different rest on the bow just to see. I’ve tried with more heel pressure and more in the web of hand. Same results

Double check cable routing, should be timing marks on the cams to check at brace, make sure those are on.


If nothing else, must be the purple serving, pull that off and it will fix itself.


How tight are the nocks to click onto the string?

 

[sndmn11]

Does it matter where? Are all brass speed nocks equal?

Just pick two different spots in between the existing heat shrink. The black center brass nocks will be fine, any shop should have them. It will take a total of 3 minutes to crimp two on, in separate gaps, and test. They will come right off it doesn't work. If it does, you can leave them as the are and throw some heat shrink on, or nip the existing heat shrink off and butt them up to the existing speed nocks, then heat shrink them all.

For the string damper thing, I just loosen the screws, pull the string back a few inches, then let it go forward. The momentum usually puts the string stopper in a good spot depending on how squishy it is.

 

[MT257]

Well after thinking about it today, I had marked where the factory string had pulled the rest cable while at full draw. The new strings I set the draw cord up and let it set it self. It was about 1/4” less than factory strings. I pulled it through to where it was on factory strings and nock low is still there. Not near as bad. But got 3/8 nock high instead of more than 1/2” I posted yesterday.

 

[Billy Goat]

Well after thinking about it today, I had marked where the factory string had pulled the rest cable while at full draw. The new strings I set the draw cord up and let it set it self. It was about 1/4” less than factory strings. I pulled it through to where it was on factory strings and nock low is still there. Not near as bad. But got 3/8 nock high instead of more than 1/2” I posted yesterday.

Where your cable was before likely has more to do with a difference in serving on cables.

It's interesting that it seems to be clearing it up some tho, normally with those it's too much tension damages the drop away, and back of the arrow will slam the rest, giving nock high.

 

[MT257]

Where your cable was before likely has more to do with a difference in serving on cables.

It's interesting that it seems to be clearing it up some tho, normally with those it's too much tension damages the drop away, and back of the arrow will slam the rest, giving nock high.

So I pulled that 1/4 through cable. My next move I took and ran top of arrow just above center of Berger hole. Much improved. That is maybe 1/32 nock high.

I think my next move I think will run top of arrow through center of Berger.

 

[Billy Goat]

So I pulled that 1/4 through cable. My next move I took and ran top of arrow just above center of Berger hole. Much improved. That is maybe 1/32 nock high.View attachment 872980

I think my next move I think will run top of arrow through center of Berger.

Are you moving your cord and allowing it to reset every time you move the rest?

Doesn't take much rest adjustment down before the cord tension is wrong.

As long as cord can slip, it's fine to keep moving the rest up, it will correct itself. Just something to be mindful of if lowering the rest.

Still shouldn't be anything to do with your issue tho.

 

[MT257]

Are you moving your cord and allowing it to reset every time you move the rest?

Doesn't take much rest adjustment down before the cord tension is wrong.

As long as cord can slip, it's fine to keep moving the rest up, it will correct itself. Just something to be mindful of if lowering the rest.

Still shouldn't be anything to do with your issue tho.

I have not been doing that this evening

 

[MT257]

After messing with rest cord it seems to get a better tear if I pull cord all the way to prior burnt ball. If I pull it snug and let bow reset it it’s still got 1/4” that could pull through, but doesn’t make sense. Could the cable be twisted too much?

 

[Billy Goat]

Is it coming sideways out of the cable? Like 90 degrees to facing the rest?

What are the alignment marks on the rest showing? How much draw cycle is left when they align?

 

[MT257]

Is it coming sideways out of the cable? Like 90 degrees to facing the rest?

What are the alignment marks on the rest showing? How much draw cycle is left when they align?

At rest or full draw?

Cord is on front side of cable or side facing riser. With a 1/4” tail rest comes up a little after half way through draw cycle. With burnt ball it comes up in last 1/3 to 1/4 of draw cycle