RX9U tuning issues

[JeffRaines]

Figured I'd give the guys here a shot as well.

I'm usually one to buy used, but I decided to treat myself and purchase a new bow. I deserve it, right? The bow holds great. I enjoy shooting it, except for the fact that I can't get this thing to tune straight.

DL set at 28.5
60lbs
85% let off
Hamskea Everest
Shooting 300 HLRs @ 29", 125 up front. 430ish total weight..

So at the shop I went ahead and let the guys rough it in, figuring once I got it home and shot it 200 or so times the strings would settle and then I could go about tuning. It was shooting decent when I left the shop(about how it is now). Leaving the shop they ended up shimming the cams left with the black spacers.

A little timeline, I started noticing arrows were hitting my target with the nock kicked to the left. After a few nights of that I went ahead and shot it through paper. Tail low left, probably 2" tear. Okay cool. Checked it in the draw board, found lower cam advanced. Measured ATA, found it a little long so I put a twist in the upper control cable to bring the stops even. Went out and shot, low tear cleaned up some but still present, left tear still very much present. Put another twist into top cable which advanced the top cam a bit, and vertical tear cleaned up.

Now with the left tear, the first thing I attempted was to grip the bow differently. I put it as close to my lifeline as possible. Further out. Heeled it a little. Heeled it a lot. Etc. I couldn't make it tear right at all. It would get worse depending on what I was doing, but it never got better. I know the only other option is red spacers on top as far as shimming goes. So I checked the rest - it was initially set at 13/16, I was able to set it to 3/4-11/16thish or so and achieve what I left the shop with... with the caveat that my sight is now partially obstructed by the riser.

Checked the timing of the rest, no issue there, nor do my fletchings indicate any contact. Watching it in the draw board it looked fine.

Decided to grab a different grip to see if maybe that helped(it helped with my consistency with my Mathews). No dice, same tear.

I would like to add that shooting my Mathews, I have no issues and I'm shooting bullet holes. That thing tuned up very easy in comparison, and is fairly forgiving when it comes to grip.

I've had people suggest resetting it to center and going through that again, but that seems like its just going to lead me right back where I'm at right now.

I'm kind of at a loss here. I want this thing to tune. I want my sight to be unobstructed by the riser, but I've reached my end. I can absolutely throw the red shims on, and I'm sure that would help clean it up, but my sights still gonna be in the same place.

Maybe someone here who's more skilled than I might know a trick or two I haven't tried yet.

Thanks in advance!

 

[sndmn11]

Put the red in the top and go back to 13/16

 

[Idaboy]

I have not shot the RX9

1. I think it's always worth a reset
2. Shim left as stated above. You definitely still have some room with rest but shimming more effective
3. Check on drawboard that cables aren't rubbing cam, unfamiliar with RX9, but that has occurred on RX7 & 8 (bottom cam)
4. Any chance rest has timing issue or contact?
5. Is your drawlength OK? Any chance too long?
6. Try a bareshaft or broadhead at 10yds and then 15, then 20....see if same result/issue as paper
7. What is your thumb of grip hand doing? Sounds like you already tried grip change
8. Take back to shop, they had a shim left for starters so seems the bow already was shooting that way. You might read on archery talk if people reporting similar issues

 

[Swampcruiser]

I’ve tuned a couple RX9 ultra’s and that activation chord on your Hamskea needs to go almost back to the axle. Placement seems critical. I think we also had to play with the launcher spring.
One of the Hamskea guys put a nice write up on the “other” archery forum a few weeks ago. If you have a draw board it might be worth looking at.
Just for giggles I would also check your fixed mod screws that they are tight (33 ft/lbs) with a torque wrench. These start to get loose and you’ll see inconsistent flight before hearing clicks or worse.

 

[JeffRaines]

I have not shot the RX9

1. I think it's always worth a reset
2. Shim left as stated above. You definitely still have some room with rest but shimming more effective
3. Check on drawboard that cables aren't rubbing cam, unfamiliar with RX9, but that has occurred on RX7 & 8 (bottom cam)
4. Any chance rest has timing issue or contact?
5. Is your drawlength OK? Any chance too long?
6. Try a bareshaft or broadhead at 10yds and then 15, then 20....see if same result/issue as paper
7. What is your thumb of grip hand doing? Sounds like you already tried grip change
8. Take back to shop, they had a shim left for starters so seems the bow already was shooting that way. You might read on archery talk if people reporting similar issues

No cable issues. I also checked the rest while it was in a drawboard to make sure timing was okay.

I forgot to mention I tried shortening my draw length already, I also tried switching from 85% to 80%. I also experimented with less/no face contact with the string to make sure that wasn’t the issue.

My thumb runs parallel with the arrow shelf, but relaxed.

I’ve tuned a couple RX9 ultra’s and that activation chord on your Hamskea needs to go almost back to the axle. Placement seems critical. I think we also had to play with the launcher spring.
One of the Hamskea guys put a nice write up on the “other” archery forum a few weeks ago. If you have a draw board it might be worth looking at.
Just for giggles I would also check your fixed mod screws that they are tight (33 ft/lbs) with a torque wrench. These start to get loose and you’ll see inconsistent flight before hearing clicks or worse.

I’ll check that. That activation cord is about 1” from the bottom axle, does it need to go closer?

I’ll try to find that write up. I think I know what other forum you’re talking about - what subforum is it on?

 

[Swampcruiser]

It’s on the general forum. I almost go all the way as close as it will go- you’re almost there. 1/2” from the axle - I almost wish it had the axles like the mach1 you could tie to.

 

[sndmn11]

check your fixed mod screws that they are tight (33 ft/lbs) with a torque wrench.

 

[Sizthediz]

I’ve tuned a couple RX9 ultra’s and that activation chord on your Hamskea needs to go almost back to the axle. Placement seems critical. I think we also had to play with the launcher spring.
One of the Hamskea guys put a nice write up on the “other” archery forum a few weeks ago. If you have a draw board it might be worth looking at.
Just for giggles I would also check your fixed mod screws that they are tight (33 ft/lbs) with a torque wrench. These start to get loose and you’ll see inconsistent flight before hearing clicks or worse.

This is the topic you're looking for timing limb driven rests

 

[Idaboy]

No cable issues. I also checked the rest while it was in a drawboard to make sure timing was okay.

I forgot to mention I tried shortening my draw length already, I also tried switching from 85% to 80%. I also experimented with less/no face contact with the string to make sure that wasn’t the issue.

My thumb runs parallel with the arrow shelf, but relaxed.


I’ll check that. That activation cord is about 1” from the bottom axle, does it need to go closer?

I’ll try to find that write up. I think I know what other forum you’re talking about - what subforum is it on?

I'd probably go back to shop if shimming doesn't clean up....that's pretty frustrating

 

[Sizthediz]

If you can't manipulate the tear away to rule out grip. Probably the bow then.
I just struggled with a nock high. I had to adjust cables for stretch and the more I twisted it couldn't get rid of the tear. Figured out later it was because I was moving my d loop. Fixed that and bullet hole and few more tweaks and bareshafts hitting with fletched. Sometimes you have to start over. Good luck

 

[JeffRaines]

It’s on the general forum. I almost go all the way as close as it will go- you’re almost there. 1/2” from the axle - I almost wish it had the axles like the mach1 you could tie to.

This is the topic you're looking for timing limb driven rests

View attachment 892627

Seen that post, went and checked on the draw board. I took an arrow and marked the end and at rest, then measured what 50 and 70% would be and made those marks. The arm seems to be at full height/starting to move down at ~60%.

My assumption is that moving the cable almost to the axle would cause that arm to stay up longer, correct? At least according to the Hamskea rep on there it seems to be set about right. He did suggest on that post to set hunting bows closer to 50%, but I feel like I'd need to move further from the limb tip for that to happen.

Unless my understanding is flawed(wouldn't be the first time).

 

[BigSky]

There have been a lot of good ideas so far and you have clearly checked many. Maybe it’s a simpler thing. Do you use nock sets? Possible string pinch from too tight of knocks or too tight of d-loop/nock sets. Too large of nocks? Have someone see if, while shooting, your rest falls freely. I’m just spitballing possible simpler causation beyond what has been suggested. Even if you’ve eliminated facial contact it’s possible you are not releasing straight backward. Even a slight lateral sweeping while releasing can cause left or right/lateral movement.

Additionally, it’s commonly accepted that one could use fence posts for arrows with no ill effect. However, that’s not true across the board. You are, in my opinion, two “spine levels” above what “could be used”. I agree with those who say you generally can’t go too stiff. But, if none of the suggestions so far will work, try a 340. Stranger things have happened. Good luck and I hope you reach resolution soon.

 

[JeffRaines]

There have been a lot of good ideas so far and you have clearly checked many. Maybe it’s a simpler thing. Do you use nock sets? Possible string pinch from too tight of knocks or too tight of d-loop/nock sets. Too large of nocks? Have someone see if, while shooting, your rest falls freely. I’m just spitballing possible simpler causation beyond what has been suggested. Even if you’ve eliminated facial contact it’s possible you are not releasing straight backward. Even a slight lateral sweeping while releasing can cause left or right/lateral movement.

Additionally, it’s commonly accepted that one could use fence posts for arrows with no ill effect. However, that’s not true across the board. You are, in my opinion, two “spine levels” above what “could be used”. I agree with those who say you generally can’t go too stiff. But, if none of the suggestions so far will work, try a 340. Stranger things have happened. Good luck and I hope you reach resolution soon.

I neglected to mention nock pinch was something I checked for.

While checking grip I also fooled around with release arm angle to see if I could fix it that way. While I was able to induce a worse left tear I was never able to remove it or make it better. I would imagine if I was sweeping my arm upon release I should’ve been able to induce a right tear(due to me doing what I should’ve been doing and the bow being out of adjustment at that point) or at the very least reduce the left tear.

I appreciate the insight though - I’m a diesel technician by trade and the place I work for has an apprenticeship program. The reason I bring this up is because I preach to those guys that it’s often a simple problem and to check the stupid simple stuff first before jumping into the weeds. You more than likely have more experience than me on the bow stuff so again - much appreciated!

 

[trevore]

I would start back over at '0'.

 

[JeffRaines]

It’s. The. Damn. Fletchings.

So I’ve been using DCA Sabers. They’re durable as hell, I’ve had pass throughs on my target and animals without losing fletchings or tearing them up. Great, right?

I finally got my red shims and put them in. Still a tail left tear. I had pretty much given up on this bow, figured it was an issue with me and was honestly planning on sending it up the road before I lose much more on it. I can shoot my Mathews with no issues so screw it.

Today I was out shooting my Mathews and noticed these fletchings were developing a mark on the lower left tip. Look at the rest - there’s a mark. Damn. Oh well, I’m not gonna split hairs, the fletchings are cool but I’ve got a bunch of AAE lower profile fletchings that I was using before I started using these.

I fletched up an arrow with the hybrids, and while the glue was curing I had a thought. I have zero sign that the fletchings were contacting the rest or cables, but what the hell?

First shot through paper - tail right.

Second… Tail right.

Tail right.

Tail right.

I’ll be damned.

I might try and rotate the nocks to see if I can fix the issue with the sabers. Thing is, there’s literally zero evidence(other than the sudden shift to tail right) that there’s any contact. With my Mathews it was on the tip of the lower left vane clear as day.

 

[billysmals]

Spray your fletchings with athlete's powder or use baking soda/flour sprinkled on them. I had a similar issue in that I didn't see any evidence of arrow fletching contact on my old mathews (v3x) and then discovered strange markings in the rest felt. I was shooting fine and broadheads were good. So I ignored it. I found out only some of my arrows contacted. It was weird. It wasn't consistent, it'd be fine, then I'd get a flyer. I few sprays with the powder and what do you know, whit smears on the rest and wiped from the fletching. I found that the softer fletchings hide contact more than a lot of the new "rigid" materials that are coming out, as they absorb contact before causing arrow deviation. I was in tune as well, center shot, and ended up nock rotating 30 degrees. Cleaned up everything when I re-tested with spray.

Glad you got it figured out!