Mathews nock low tear: adjust rest or timing?

Cfriend

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Jun 20, 2019
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I'll start with my question and then provide background below: Is it better to have the nock significantly above the arrow rest (3/8"+) and the bow perfectly timed, or to have the bow out of time with a level arrow? This assumes the rest is set for arrow through Berger hole center.

I have a Mathews VXR 28 that I can only get to paper tune with the nock over 3/8" above level. I've researched this a good bit, and have tried all the common things (see list below). I know Mathews tune a little nock high for a lot of people, but this seem excessive.

Two things I know will fix it are taking the bow out of time or backing out one of the limb bolts (isn't that kind of the same thing?). I had this same problem last year, and after spending way too much time on it I ended up keeping the rest a little high (1/8") and adjusted the cam timing till I got a bullet hole. Then was able to bare shaft and broadhead tune just fine.

I just changed my strings this year, and am tuning again, so I figured I would see what you all thought. If anyone has any suggestions I haven't already tried, I'll give it a shot, but if not I figure I'll just do something like last year. Just wondering if I'm better off with the arrow level or the bow in time, or a mixture of the two?

What I've checked:
Nock pinch (plenty of space around the nock)
Arrow spine (tried weaker and stiffer arrow with same results)
Timing (timing checked and on)
Limb bolts (both maxed out)
Rest Timing (both loosened and tightened rope with no effect)
Rest (tried a different rest)
Form: it may be my form (mine certainly isn't perfect), but I have tried changing grip pressure, changing elbow angle, even held the bow out in front of my body all with the same results. Regardless, I would prefer not to make a major change to my form this late in the year.
Draw length: haven't tried different mods, but as stated above, I've tried multiple shooting positions.
Cam bearings: they are good
Also tried keeping arrow level and moving both rest and nock point up (and down).
 
I’m going to assume you checked the timing on a draw board and aren’t using the holes in the cams. That being said have you had anyone else try shooting the bow to see if they get the same low tear? And is your rest set to run straight through the Berger hole?
 
What rests have you tried?
Does the rest height sit the same at rest as when cocked (if cable driven).

Have you measured the tiller?
Are the cables run through the roller correctly?
 
I’m going to assume you checked the timing on a draw board and aren’t using the holes in the cams. That being said have you had anyone else try shooting the bow to see if they get the same low tear? And is your rest set to run straight through the Berger hole?
Yes, timing checked on a draw board. And I started with the arrow level and through the center of the Berger hole. I haven't had anyone else shoot it. Good idea, I just don't have anyone here who could do it right now.
 
What rests have you tried?
Does the rest height sit the same at rest as when cocked (if limb driven).

Have you measured the tiller?
Are the cables run through the roller correctly?
Tried a couple different QADs. Also, I think that when I was trying stuff last year, I tried one of the old two prong types I had sitting around. Same results...
 
I just went through the struggle bus with a nock high tear (lift x 33) . Tried manipulating my grip to see if it was me , couldn't solve. Checked and changed timing but couldn't get it to completely get it cleaned. Changed d loop. No success. Decided to "start" over. Cut off d loop , leveled an arrow and my nock point,which i measured off original location was > 1/8" high (probably from twisting cables). I Put on a New dloop to leveled arrow and i get bullet holes with no grip manipulating. Bareshaft hitting with fletched with minimal adjustment to LST. Maybe start over.
 
All my Mathews have been level with Berger hole or bottom of shaft splitting Berger hole(mostly the latter).
 
Why do you need “a perfect paper tune” before you finish actually tuning the bow?

Even if it is perfect it’s still no where close to being tuned for broadheads. I would quit wasting time set your timing as close to perfect as possible and start shooting (not through paper).
 
I just restrung and set up and paper tuned a vxr 31.5. I set center shot 13/16 through center of Berger, about 1/16 nock high. My top cam hits first by a width or 2 of paper and it’s shooting bullet holes.

I would echo what was said above and maybe start over.

What’s your arrow length weight and spine? Draw weight?

Maybe try rotating the nocks to see if it’s the arrow causing it.
 
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