Need a new truck- no clue what direction

Marble

WKR
Joined
May 29, 2019
Messages
3,604
Its not the DEF that's the main issue, its the EGR going out not to mention turbo failures. But back to it, the EGR is what kills longevity of modern diesel engines. They simply don't make them to go 500,000 miles anymore. You're damn lucky to get 200,000 miles before something major happens. I've been told several times by different manufacturers reps that modern gassers combined with 9 and 10 speed transmissions should get you at least 300,000 miles before any major engine work needs to be done. I'm not talking about minor issues or nuisance issues that pop up. I'm talking about the serious powertrain issues - gassers should go 300K as the new standard from what used to be 100K. I had a modern diesel 4 years ago and once it hit 150,000 miles, it was one major issue after the other. EGR failure, turbo failure, then DEF system. I maintained it impeccably too. Nope, not for me.
Thanks for the info! We haven't had a major powertrain issue in any engine since 2011. Hopefully it stays that way!

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Joined
Dec 12, 2018
Messages
502
Location
the Bitterroot
For a less expensive but highly touted reliability hunting and forest road rig, Lexus LX470 is worth considering.

I veered away from my 3/4 ton duramax and sold my sxs for hunting, in favor of the LX470. Ability to sleep in the back was a priority, which I (6ft tall) can do. Turning radius and softer suspension are a joy on the forest roads. Roof rack in future to carry extra coolers.

We will see just how reliable it ends up being. People rave about reliability but there still are real maintenance costs. Good condition ones can be bought from $13-20k ish. The GX is a couple grand less, but don't know about sleeping inside, plus the LX has the tailgate which I love.

s

ps - If already mentioned, I apologize (only read first 2 pages and last page of thread).
 

jtevanMT

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
May 30, 2022
Messages
175
If you are a western hunter and need to use chains, most half ton trucks no longer have the clearance for chains on the front end. Some don’t even have room for chains on the back tires. This includes Ford, Chevy, Dodge, Toyota and Nissan. If you need to use chains a 3/4 ton truck or older model vehicle (2019 or older Chevy, for example) will be needed.
 
Joined
Feb 19, 2023
Messages
484
Location
Montana
I have had good success with a gen1 Toyota tundra w/ 4.6 ltr. V8 very serviceable will run forever tons of upgrades and with a careful search you can find one with reasonable mileage for a manageable price and you can put a shell on it or a bed tent and it sleeps pretty comfortable. You can chip it and do an intake and exhaust upgrade for pretty cheap and really boost the power performance. Plus it's still small enough to be nimble and get around the mountains well. You also won't kill a half a years wages to put good tires on it.
 

nksmfamjp

FNG
Joined
Feb 26, 2021
Messages
91
I don’t know if this helps or not. This is kind of my take.

Ford, Chevy, Toyota and maybe Ram all seem to make a good truck…..or maybe not Ram…..not sure.

3/4 and 1 ton trucks are cool, but that is a huge price and operational cost increase. Do you really need that tow capacity or payload? I said no for myself.

There are also premium truck models, but those seem to start around $100k…they are cool, but wow!

The premium interiors, sunroof and auto magic features in packages push these 1/2 ton trucks over $80k and even $100k if you want multiples. What can you live without?

To me, a basic truck with a good engine, mission, gearing, bed lining, bed cover, crew cab is nice. Add a few miles and a few years on it and the price gets even better. I paid ~$30k for a low mile used F150 3.5 eco with 10 AT. I couldnt be happier. The stance of the Ford kept my head turned that way.

Pick the brand that fits your style cues and has an engine/miss you can live with. If you need a lift/suspension work, aftermarket will be pretty nice and a few bucks less. Look at the available engines and try to pick a good one. I likely should have got the 5.0 V8, but the 3.5 eco will do. Good luck.
 
OP
J
Joined
Feb 3, 2014
Messages
1,744
Location
Boundary Co. Idaho
I never really outlined my priorities. I am still honestly asking for at least some directions to go.

For the Land Cruiser/470 guy....I almost pulled the trigger twice. But your suggested price tags simply arent realistic. I would even be willing to fly from Spokane area to Sacramento (which per Craigs has a huge supply of Soccer Mom type LCs around). But a 2004 with over 180,000 miles is still well into the $20,000s. Like $24,000.

My priorities are:

Fuel economy. Even if the Tundra was under $50,000....I hear everyone really loves them. But MPG is terrible. What is "terrible" in pen to paper reality? 15mpg on the pavement at 70mph or under? I would consider that terrrible. 18mpg?

6 foot bed. After slumming around in my '99 Taco this fall, I really love the Dirt Bag ability to crawl in the back and rack out. I have all sorts of floorless heat shelters. But they simply don't do the same as backing into a turn off and climing in the back. No leaks, no wind. No bugs. No BS. I am short, but I just dont see a 5.5ft working. Maybe diagonal, but it just seems so cramped. Heading into retirement, I fully see me and a dog bailing for weeks at a time chasing birds and bucks across Idaho and Montana.

Locker. Maybe the dumbest requirement I am fighting. But a factory rear locker is huge on my priority list. I hunt 90% solo. No buddies. No support. To me a locker is really a game changer for getting unstuck. I've attempted 3 point turns and accidentally slid into the FR ditch, or rolled a touch too far. And it's turned into a major production. I hate it. Could I add an aftermarket locker to just about anything? Most likely. But plumbed with lines and buttons and gearing from the assembly line give me a more warm and fuzzy. But educate me maybe. I've had rock crawler jeeps and K5 Blazers with Detroit lockers. Installed my own rear axle Lok Right in a Blazer if it recall. But those are all Beaters.

I for sure don't need moon roof, leather, video/back up, heated seats, etc. But they don't make vehicles w/out that anymore.

Think I have ZERO towing requirements. If I do...it's a 16ft aluminum duck boat. Pretty minor lift.
 
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AndrewMT34

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Sep 14, 2020
Messages
240
Location
North Idaho
I have a 2017 Tundra with the 5.7L v8 that gets around 14 highway, but it doesn't seem to matter if the bed is full of gear or empty, that's the MPG it gets.

Possibly look into a Double Cab/6' bed Tundra with an ARB Air locker. There's alot of rigs rolling around with the ARB airlockers that work fantastic. Bonus with installing the air locker is you get a onboard air compressor you can use to air up tires/air mattresses or anything else you might need.

If you really want a factory rear locker, a F-150 with the 5.0L V8 is where I'd look.
 
Joined
Nov 6, 2017
Messages
587
Location
WA
Can confirm that my 2017 Colorado ZR2 Duramax w/Longbed is a beast, 70k miles and a dealership offered me $30k cash for it last week at my service appointment.

Wouldn't call them cheap, but I have loved mine so far. Has apparently retained 80% of what I bought it for 6 years ago!
 

eddielasvegas

WKR & Chairman of the Rokslide Welcoming Committee
Classified Approved
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Feb 2, 2020
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Scottsdale, AZ
@JJ....why is MPG so important? Will you drive lots o' miles?


Eddie

P.S. My advice is a Toyota truck if one of their models will work for you.
 
Joined
Jan 17, 2017
Messages
579
Location
sw mt
Locker. Maybe the dumbest requirement I am fighting. But a factory rear locker is huge on my priority list. I hunt 90% solo. No buddies. No support. To me a locker is really a game changer for getting unstuck. I've attempted 3 point turns and accidentally slid into the FR ditch, or rolled a touch too far. And it's turned into a major production. I hate it. Could I add an aftermarket locker to just about anything? Most likely. But plumbed with lines and buttons and gearing from the assembly line give me a more warm and fuzzy. But educate me maybe. I've had rock crawler jeeps and K5 Blazers with Detroit lockers. Installed my own rear axle Lok Right in a Blazer if it recall. But those are all Beaters.
As long as it is a drivetrain that has been around for awhile, there should be lockers available for it. Or add a factory locker to something that came without it. I would hold out for one already done though......the factory installed stuff is typically far more dependable than aftermarket selectable lockers and the associated stuff that goes with them. Mechanical lockers (detroits/lockright style) are very dependable, but I wouldnt ever recommend one for a mostly just driver.
 
Joined
Dec 27, 2015
Messages
998
Toyota is easily the most overrated car on the road. Legions of fanboys will disagree but the facts outweigh the feelings. It's a tall Subaru which may be just what you need considering you have real trucks at your disposal.
That said, I had a Tacoma TRD 6sp manual and upgraded in every way to a 2015 F150 with the 6.5' bed. It's much more capable, comfortable, roomy, reliable(!!! Toyota engineering forced me to address their weaknesses and that is a fail in the reliability department) and gets the same mileage as my 4.0 Tacoma with the ridiculous 6sp manual gear ratios.
140k miles on the Ford 3.5 Ecoboost and it only has asked for maintenance.
I built a sleeping platform in the bed(I have a canopy on it) and it is a great backcountry camping rig.
Almost all 4wd F150s have an electronic rear locker. Not sure you can install a front...The Raptor has a Torsen front diff.
Buy a used F150 in the configuration that works for you and enjoy.
 
Joined
Dec 27, 2015
Messages
998
How is the ride quality on your 250 though?
Not to be rude but I see many people who could go with a half ton based on their payload needs end up in a 3/4 ton and wonder why. Personally I like the look and could benefit from the increase in bed space but the ride quality has always ran me.

Mainly talking offroad gravels/dirt. My experience has been they ride so stiff it'll rattle a filling loose.
My 2006 Tacoma rode so badly on cobble that it rattled the rear window loose. Luckily I heard it go and got to it before it literally fell out. Keep preaching the Toyota quality myth.
 
OP
J
Joined
Feb 3, 2014
Messages
1,744
Location
Boundary Co. Idaho
Built both a Tundra and F-150 online. Attempting to start with a base model. It for sure feels the F-150 is easier to start plain and add the few features I would prefer....being the 6ft bed, Crew Cab and the locker. Think I could get either the 5.0 or 3.5

Both come out to a roughly the same....SR5 with some add ons or the F-150 with some up items

$53,000-$55,000

I would drive both and continue to do research and make a choice. Simply does not look like an clear options that are under $47,000ish.

Is what it is
 

manitou1

WKR
Joined
Mar 29, 2017
Messages
1,943
Location
Wyoming
For a less expensive but highly touted reliability hunting and forest road rig, Lexus LX470 is worth considering.

I veered away from my 3/4 ton duramax and sold my sxs for hunting, in favor of the LX470. Ability to sleep in the back was a priority, which I (6ft tall) can do. Turning radius and softer suspension are a joy on the forest roads. Roof rack in future to carry extra coolers.

We will see just how reliable it ends up being. People rave about reliability but there still are real maintenance costs. Good condition ones can be bought from $13-20k ish. The GX is a couple grand less, but don't know about sleeping inside, plus the LX has the tailgate which I love.

s

ps - If already mentioned, I apologize (only read first 2 pages and last page of thread).
I have looked at those and they seem to have low ground clearance.
Any issues on two-tracks/F.S. roads?
 
Joined
Dec 12, 2018
Messages
502
Location
the Bitterroot
I have looked at those and they seem to have low ground clearance.
Any issues on two-tracks/F.S. roads?
I only got mine after archery season ended but did you an antelope hunt in pretty darn rocky roads. The hydraulic suspension lifts something like 1.5-2” for speeds below 25mph. That combined with 285/75/16’s was awesome for me so far.

Kevin, owner of Seek Outside said how he loves his LX and basically does the same with stock suspension, bigger tires and then just a roof rack for hunting.

Realistically I have never really had clearance issues on the forest roads I’ve used for access, in my 3/4 ton Duramax either, so don’t think I drive roads that have such big rocks.
 

Ucsdryder

WKR
Joined
Jan 24, 2015
Messages
6,771
Toyota is easily the most overrated car on the road. Legions of fanboys will disagree but the facts outweigh the feelings. It's a tall Subaru which may be just what you need considering you have real trucks at your disposal.
That said, I had a Tacoma TRD 6sp manual and upgraded in every way to a 2015 F150 with the 6.5' bed. It's much more capable, comfortable, roomy, reliable(!!! Toyota engineering forced me to address their weaknesses and that is a fail in the reliability department) and gets the same mileage as my 4.0 Tacoma with the ridiculous 6sp manual gear ratios.
140k miles on the Ford 3.5 Ecoboost and it only has asked for maintenance.
I built a sleeping platform in the bed(I have a canopy on it) and it is a great backcountry camping rig.
Almost all 4wd F150s have an electronic rear locker. Not sure you can install a front...The Raptor has a Torsen front diff.
Buy a used F150 in the configuration that works for you and enjoy.
As somebody that buys a lot of cars….experience has shown me that this is about as far from the truth as you can get…
 

Marble

WKR
Joined
May 29, 2019
Messages
3,604
Built both a Tundra and F-150 online. Attempting to start with a base model. It for sure feels the F-150 is easier to start plain and add the few features I would prefer....being the 6ft bed, Crew Cab and the locker. Think I could get either the 5.0 or 3.5

Both come out to a roughly the same....SR5 with some add ons or the F-150 with some up items

$53,000-$55,000

I would drive both and continue to do research and make a choice. Simply does not look like an clear options that are under $47,000ish.

Is what it is
I see where you are going with using pricing as a big portion of your decision. Nothing wrong with keeping it part of the equation. It should be. But you will forget paying 5, or even 10k more for the vehicle you actually want and use for years and years. That doesn't mean you don't consider the price,just don't make keep it too high on the priority.

Price paid will long be forgotten after satisfaction purchase.

I would rather have what I want and need, than something I almost want and need more. And I would rather wait 6 months to a year longer to save up cash to make the difference in price. I dont want it to be something that keeps me from getting what I want and need.

Thay being said, I would narrow it down to 1 or 2 models, drive both, and maybe that will help.

I think you are getting closer.

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bdan68

WKR
Joined
Feb 1, 2017
Messages
337
Location
Washington
This is an option to think of. There is a company out of Spokane that will completely rebuild a truck and upgrade it as well. So you could send them a 2005 dodge 3/4 ton with the 5.9 and it gets a complete rebuild. Motor transmission everything. They will add heated seats big touch screen in the dash ect. I almost went that route. So if you have a truck you love, well they make it pretty brand new.
What is the name of this company in Spokane? I might be interested in doing this with my 2002 Chevy Silverado.
 

rtkbowhunter

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Apr 2, 2019
Messages
255
Didn't bother reading all the responses.... First there is no way any Nissan Frontier is more reliable than a Taco, 'specially a 2nd Gen. And I've owned both. Over 500K my two Taco's. Nothing but normal wear and tear.

If was spending your money, I would look at a low mileage 2nd Gen (~2013-2015) TRD Sport or Off-Road Access Cab with a 6' bed. Unless you "need" a full size with 8' bed, that Taco will get it done. For years to come.
 
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