I've done an extensive amount of riding over the years.
That CRF250L should work decent enough. A WR250R would have been more dirt-worthy. But that push-button engine start will likely prove it's worth in your situation a time or two, no doubt about that. On that same vain, you'll need to practice getting off the bike, standing beside it, and practicing walking-the-bike beside you by working the clutch and gas and front break. Often times when you're attacking a hillclimb you might get to a point where you're not going uphill anymore because your momentum slowed down and you dug in with the rear tire. So ya get off so you're unloading it with all that weight... then you try to "bulldog it" (walk beside it and guide it with inputs to the handlebars) to walk it up the remaining bit of the uphill. Lotta times this will happen just shy of cresting that hillclimb.
BUT... first and foremost.... you're going to have to get the suspension setup for you personally. DirtBikes are a very personal thing. You HAVE to dial them in for the specific user who is riding them. Proper adjustments to the suspension can make that bike feel night and day better.
I'm guessing chances are you didn't know any better about the fact that you have to adjust the sag of the rear suspension once you sit upon the bike suited up in all your gear. So... you probably started her up and just went for a ride. If the suspension is not setup properly, you will have a horrible time. In contrast, once the suspensions is setup and dialed in for your current weight and skill level, it should feel much more like you're riding a fine and precise line. Everything will be easier.
For us bigger dudes (I tend to hover around the neighborhood of 225-235Lbs) a lot of time you ALSO have to order an aftermarket stiffer spring for the rear shock. They often come from the factory with springs on them which are geared more toward people who weigh less than I do.
To some degree... you can sorta makeup for too weak of a rear shock by adjusting the preload adjuster on the rear shock. It's these two special kinds of locking ring nuts on the shock body and their job is to pre-compress the spring somewhat to get it into (or out of) the more stiffer part of the spring's initial resistance. The more you tighten down the preload adjuster rings, the more you're losing some of that supple initial travel of the spring, and as a result, the rear end will get to feeling a little "pogo-y" at times over things like braking bumps, you encounter before a berm, for example.
Another thing which you will NEED to learn how to do is view the schematics for your ignition switch! Learn how to hot-wire your moto if you have to! If you fall out there and the light/speedo/ignition switch area takes a hit... it's very likely you'll jack-up the ignition switch and will be stuck out there, unless you have a slope you can bump start it with. (And even then if the switch is completely ripped up, ya might still need to complete the connections) So definitely checkout the schematics and visually inspect your ignition switch to recognize the colors of al those various wires and which two you'd have to splice to bypass that switch. Also.. just in case ya EFF up and leave your house to go hunting and forget THE KEY! (Doh! Another thing that will happen if you go riding long enough.)
You're going to need to study up on how and when you need to tweak your suspension clickers in order to cure symptom X or Y that you will notice, once you get more comfortable with riding and start to push it.
Get yourself a Bash Plate! To protect your engine/frame/transmission cases from getting bashed upon rocks you're traversing. You crack a case out there.. you're leaking fluid and you're EFF'd. Make sure you have a tool kit with which you can at the very least yank out a tire and change an inner tube while in the field. Inclue some JB Weld in that toolkit, to potentially fix a radiator hole. YOU WILL some day have to change a tube in the field!! Know that! So you'd better get some experience working with smaller field tools doing that. Typically the tire spoons in those kits are very minimal and don't offer a lot of leverage. So they're more tricky to use, gotta take smaller bites of tire at a time. And.. a 6-Ply tough desert terrain front tire is a major PITA to put on with small tire spoons, and not much better with large ones either. Know the procedure for inflating the tube initially WITHOUT the VALVE STEM IN IT... so that upon exhaling the air, the tube then unfolds inside the rim so no folds to develop a rub and make a hole and go flat. Fil the tube with Slime Fix A Flat too. It can buy you some time towards riding back to truck before the tire completely goes flat.
Most DualSports don't come with any Rim-Locks on them... if you're going to do ANY real off-roading AT ALL... you need Rim-Locks. They hold the bead of the tire against the rim so the valve stem doesn't get sheered off when you're hammering a bunch whoops. So you'll need to order some of those and install them and likely use some adhesive weights to counter-balance them to some degree... though for strictly dirt that's not necessary to counter balance though. On the streets it'll bug ya a bit the front end shakin' up and down when at speed.
There are even replacement products if you don't want to use an inner tube you can use these foam inner tube inserts which are meant to replace an inner tube. Enduro and Hare Scramble guys that have to go thru very precarious terrain which often pokes thru a tube sometimes opt for them. But they add some weight.
Ask around about which parts to safety wire so they can't fall off the bike, and which various bolts should be Blue Loctited down before you even go on your first ride.
Biggest thing that causes crashes in the dirt is "riding over your head" (faster than your skillset realistically can handle) and riding when you're very fatigued. Well as a hunter you're gonna no doubt be riding sometime when you're very fatigued. So.. take it CHILL! Ride much more leisurely when you're aware that you're spent and a bit exhausted. When riding, STOP and DRINK the moment you feel decently thirsty. Your grip strength on the handlebar grips can be affected quite a bit by dehydration.
Learn to tell yourself to relax your death-grip on the handlebar grips whenever the terrain you're upon opens up and gets a little easier to ride over. Otherwise... n00b thing... you'll be ridin' around with a death-grip like a vice on the bars and your forearm pump will be hugely problematic.
Also since you plan on using this for hunting purposes.. that means you plan to ride that bike when load bumps up in weight be almost a whole 'nother person added on. And I mention this to you because if you encounter a long and meandering single-track downhill trail line that requires a lot of creeping with the front-brake on... that extra weight is gonna KILL your Triceps on the back of your arms. Have them begging for mercy if it's a long technical downhill that you need to be cautious and on the brakes with a lot. The struggle is real on that!
Also in terms of setting up your bike.. actually try riding/shifting it with the intended boots on you plan to wear while hunting. You MAY find you need to re-mount the shift lever and braking levers rotated on their spindle shafts so that they give you more room to fit the toe of your boot under them with minimal foot movement. Also on most bikes these days they have adjustable levers where you can dial in the positioning of those levers away from the handlebar so they are at THEE most comfortable position to grab without having to ever really try. All those little DETAILS are what make your ride fun and enjoyable versus really working you hard over time.
