Monarch HG vs Geovid R - Rethinking “near-alpha” binos

[Brontosaurus]

Yeah I was pulling some legit 2200 yd ranges on some big rocks in perfect conditions (got 2552 on a boulder once but I think it was a fluke) but usually its deadly consistent in that 1400 yd area.

Overall this is a huge upgrade over my vortex rf that froze up on last year's elk hunt. Im digging them and I wouldn't hesitate to get another pair.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

Just messed with my geovids another half hour.

I believe the problem is actually me, my brain is treating the rangefinder display like an obstruction, and switching to my left eye for primary input when it is activated. I'm able to have everything perfectly clear as binos, or as monoculars, but as rangefinder binoculars I have to consciously "look" at the display, otherwise the readout is a bit blurry. There also seems to be some depth issue, as if the display digits are closer to me than the rest of the image.

Has anyone else experienced something like this, and if so, did you get used to it over time?

 

[redneckbmxer24]

Try focusing the binos to your right eye with the focus knob, then focus the reticle once you have clean image. See if that makes a difference.

 

[Mr Xv3]

Just messed with my geovids another half hour.

I believe the problem is actually me, my brain is treating the rangefinder display like an obstruction, and switching to my left eye for primary input when it is activated. I'm able to have everything perfectly clear as binos, or as monoculars, but as rangefinder binoculars I have to consciously "look" at the display, otherwise the readout is a bit blurry. There also seems to be some depth issue, as if the display digits are closer to me than the rest of the image.

Has anyone else experienced something like this, and if so, did you get used to it over time?

Yes.

This is sometime an issue with other similar display types, such as HUDs in aircraft, iron sights, or Aimpoint type sights. It is a mental game of “seeing thru” the display onto the object of interest.

The best example of a fix is similar to rifle sights and the “focus on the front sight.” Hyper concentration on the one item, such as defining the top corners of a blade type sight, or on the distant object in your case, may help. The ranging reticle should almost “just be there” vs be the focus of your attention.

Not sure I am explaining it well… continue to analyze the object you are looking at, and ranging… don’t focus on reading the display.

 

[Formidilosus]

Just messed with my geovids another half hour.

I believe the problem is actually me, my brain is treating the rangefinder display like an obstruction, and switching to my left eye for primary input when it is activated. I'm able to have everything perfectly clear as binos, or as monoculars, but as rangefinder binoculars I have to consciously "look" at the display, otherwise the readout is a bit blurry. There also seems to be some depth issue, as if the display digits are closer to me than the rest of the image.

If you just use them as binos, regardless of the display being a bit blurry, can you tell what the range is?

If so, well…. I have to ask, why does it matter?

Has anyone else experienced something like this, and if so, did you get used to it over time?

Yes, some people have a similar issue. Ignore it. Focus the binos, get the reticle as good as it can be in 30 seconds of playing with it, then go on with life. You only need to be able to read the range.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

Yes, as set now they have a good plain binocular image.

Why does it matter that the reticle is a bit blurry - because my expectation was that it would be crisp.

I'll give it another week before I make a final decision, I still have some time in my return window to train my focus.

 

[dreamingWest]

More thoughts:

I agree with @Formidilosus that there isn’t an inherent issue with focusing and/or diopters. @ResearchinStuff figured this out and I think for us rookies to RF Binos it was an easy mistake to make. The issue has to do with focusing on the object or on the distance read-out. For most people, you probably don’t need to even mess with the diopters out of the box.

Also agree with Formidilosus and @THLR regarding optical quality. This glass is very good. I’m willing to say that 90% of hunters could simply purchase the updated Geovid R in 8s or 10s and not need any other glass to hunt effectively/efficiently. I’ve had these side-by-side with my Swarovski SLC 10x42 and EL 8x32 (both latest models) and for handheld glass you aren’t missing anything. Optically, they are way more similar than different. I won’t use bad glass, it’s irritating. These Leica’s are nice. Yes I plan to own NLs or similar someday, but that’s only because I appreciate the beauty of these optics. Not because I think it will make me a more effective hunter. I’m sure if I put these three on a tripod I could be more critical, but that’s not how I plan to use the Geovids.

I purchased 8x42s for a few reasons. 1. I’ve never owned an 8x42. 2. If I ever decide I need a ballistics RF bino, I’ll buy 10s. 3. These will primarily be used off my back porch where glassing is 99% inside 500 yards. 4. Typically I think with non-alpha optics it’s best to buy the lower power.

My general thoughts on the 8x42s:
-The combination of weight/size and 8 power makes these my easiest bino to hold steady (two hands).
-Depth of field is impressive. I’m rarely needing to focus from 50-500.
-They offer brightness equal to or better than the two Swaros. I will say any brightness advantage given to the larger exit pupil is over by sunrise/sunset. The 30-60 minutes of twilight it is noticeable.
-I’m not convinced that a larger exit pupil is needed for any of my hunting with the exception of whitetails. I still think twilight factor trumps exit pupil for hunters trying to evaluate trophy potential.

I’m only planning to use these for rifle hunts but the RF-bino works so well it has me wondering about bowhunting applications. I like the Swaro EL 8x32 because I can single hand glass effectively when needed (holding a bow). Next time I’m around the Leica Geovid Pro 8x32s I’ll be sure to evaluate them for single hand holding.

If you look at the attached picture you can see the difference in eye cup diameter. The smaller eyecups of the Swaros are more comfortable to me. They are easier for me to “melt” into the view. With time I’ll see if I get used to the larger Leica’s. They may only feel uncomfortable now because I’ve been using the Swaro’s exclusively for so long. I would purchase a Swaro SLC-RF tomorrow at retail if it existed and the rangefinder worked as well as this Leica.

 

[BjornF16]

Aircraft HUD symbology is focused at infinity so that when looking through HUD at ground or aircraft you can read the display.

So I would think you focus the scene at distance in the right barrel, then focus range symbology while still focused on the landscape scene.

 

[handwerk]

Nice write up DW, thanks

 

[Mr Xv3]

More thoughts:

I agree with @Formidilosus that there isn’t an inherent issue with focusing and/or diopters. @ResearchinStuff figured this out and I think for us rookies to RF Binos it was an easy mistake to make. The issue has to do with focusing on the object or on the distance read-out. For most people, you probably don’t need to even mess with the diopters out of the box.

Also agree with Formidilosus and @THLR regarding optical quality. This glass is very good. I’m willing to say that 90% of hunters could simply purchase the updated Geovid R in 8s or 10s and not need any other glass to hunt effectively/efficiently. I’ve had these side-by-side with my Swarovski SLC 10x42 and EL 8x32 (both latest models) and for handheld glass you aren’t missing anything. Optically, they are way more similar than different. I won’t use bad glass, it’s irritating. These Leica’s are nice. Yes I plan to own NLs or similar someday, but that’s only because I appreciate the beauty of these optics. Not because I think it will make me a more effective hunter. I’m sure if I put these three on a tripod I could be more critical, but that’s not how I plan to use the Geovids.

I purchased 8x42s for a few reasons. 1. I’ve never owned an 8x42. 2. If I ever decide I need a ballistics RF bino, I’ll buy 10s. 3. These will primarily be used off my back porch where glassing is 99% inside 500 yards. 4. Typically I think with non-alpha optics it’s best to buy the lower power.

My general thoughts on the 8x42s:
-The combination of weight/size and 8 power makes these my easiest bino to hold steady (two hands).
-Depth of field is impressive. I’m rarely needing to focus from 50-500.
-They offer brightness equal to or better than the two Swaros. I will say any brightness advantage given to the larger exit pupil is over by sunrise/sunset. The 30-60 minutes of twilight it is noticeable.
-I’m not convinced that a larger exit pupil is needed for any of my hunting with the exception of whitetails. I still think twilight factor trumps exit pupil for hunters trying to evaluate trophy potential.

I’m only planning to use these for rifle hunts but the RF-bino works so well it has me wondering about bowhunting applications. I like the Swaro EL 8x32 because I can single hand glass effectively when needed (holding a bow). Next time I’m around the Leica Geovid Pro 8x32s I’ll be sure to evaluate them for single hand holding.

If you look at the attached picture you can see the difference in eye cup diameter. The smaller eyecups of the Swaros are more comfortable to me. They are easier for me to “melt” into the view. With time I’ll see if I get used to the larger Leica’s. They may only feel uncomfortable now because I’ve been using the Swaro’s exclusively for so long. I would purchase a Swaro SLC-RF tomorrow at retail if it existed and the rangefinder worked as well as this Leica.View attachment 582351

Awesome comments.

The eyecups and getting them “right” has been my greatest challenge with the Geovid-R… it’s sorted now.

Other that that, with the eyecups sorted - I really like the view of my 10x42s. They compare favorably with my EDGs and LX Ls - good stuff.

 

[Formidilosus]

Awesome comments.

The eyecups and getting them “right” has been my greatest challenge with the Geovid-R… it’s sorted now.

Other that that, with the eyecups sorted - I really like the view of my 10x42s. They compare favorably with my EDGs and LX Ls - good stuff.

Something you might try, is collapsing the eyecups all the way in, and using the bridge of your eye socket as an anchor point for the eyecup. The apparent FOV greatly improves, and the binos becomes much less finicky in placement.
Probably 90% of people I show this to hate it at first, and then after a couple hours using it straight never extend the eyecups again.

 

[Mr Xv3]

Something you might try, is collapsing the eyecups all the way in, and using the bridge of your eye socket as an anchor point for the eyecup. The apparent FOV greatly improves, and the binos becomes much less finicky in placement.
Probably 90% of people I show this to hate it at first, and then after a couple hours using it straight never extend the eyecups again.

Great tip - I’ll give that a try. Thank you.

 

[dreamingWest]

I'll try as well. I always end up with eye cups all the way out and binos collapsed to minimal ipd.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

I finally got the diopters set properly. Nice and clear at all ranges, abs the digital display is on the same focal plane as the rest of the image. They're fantastic now.

 

[BjornF16]

I finally got the diopters set properly. Nice and clear at all ranges, abs the digital display is on the same focal plane as the rest of the image. They're fantastic now.

what made the difference?

 

[ResearchinStuff]

I found a transformer right in front of a dense pine tree at 340 yards. I was able to get the right eye focus perfect on the transformer, and get a good range on the pine, which provided a nice backdrop for the digital display. Ended up with about half the adjustment from center that I had been getting. Left eye diopter adjustment cleared everything up looking at the transformer. I also did this about an hour before sunset, so light enough, but no squinting from excessive brightness.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

My replacements for the defective Geovid R’s just showed up. They sure look different

 

[JGRaider]

Wise choice ditching the Leica's. Their Geo's are hit and miss, and their CS still sucks.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

I almost went back with the new 10x42 Pros but I'm glad I got these. The image quality and immersive view is identical to my NL's. I'm going to set my resolution chart out on the driving range later this evening when the sun chills out a bit and compare them to my EL's and NL's. The laser is like a lightening bolt compared to the Leicas, it's Vectronix PLRF fast.

 

[Mr Xv3]

Something you might try, is collapsing the eyecups all the way in, and using the bridge of your eye socket as an anchor point for the eyecup. The apparent FOV greatly improves, and the binos becomes much less finicky in placement.
Probably 90% of people I show this to hate it at first, and then after a couple hours using it straight never extend the eyecups again.

This worked like a champ. Took a bit of getting used to - but, as you stated, I prefer this method now. Added bonus, it seems to be faster.

Of note - I tried this technique on a recent SLC purchase and prefer your method the SLCs as well. Thank you again.