Maybe the lowest priced option to benchmade altitude

[sndmn11]

Snowy day so I had to wait for @KickinNDishin and the demon spawn to go to church to set up my sander in the garage. Got my rough work done now it is all hand. If it weren't cerakote I'd be done, but I'm trying to preserve the finish and the jumping. Normally I'd just sand the scales down and take a little steel with it as well.

Fitting the scale bolster to the sheath has been a lil bit of a challenge too.

Going to mask off the steel and hand sand from here.

Just pulled the trigger on one.
Thanks for the coupon code.

Thinking about doing a handle.
Curious why cork? I understand the weight but will it stand up to abuse?


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I make fly rods as well. When thinking through keeping these lightweight I was turning a rod grip and realized the answer was in front of me. So, I made a cork handle for an iron will knife and epoxied it together, worked great. I then had a havalon blade scalpel handle I did, then my own two hunting blades.

It won't hold up to pounding if you tried to use it as a chisel. It is waterproof, stick when wet, cushy and grippy, and lightweight.

I then tired some without epoxy, and they are going strong.

@justin davis has a maxamet mule with a cork handle, I think he likes the handle but not the steel. @feanor has my cork handled skinner he made the blade for. That happens to also be s90v and I'd venture to say he will tell you it's sharp.

 

[couesbitten]

I bought mine, $63.83 shipped.

 

[SneakyThunderCat]

Anyone have any recommendations on a field sharpener that would touch up this knife if needed, along with softer steels?

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[feanor]

Classic hijack lol…

76 along w all the South West units are very hot for a reason. Heck they killed the world record a stones throw from there a couple years ago.

Get in there, put in the work, and you will be pleased w what you find. Good luck !

Snowy day so I had to wait for @KickinNDishin and the demon spawn to go to church to set up my sander in the garage. Got my rough work done now it is all hand. If it weren't cerakote I'd be done, but I'm trying to preserve the finish and the jumping. Normally I'd just sand the scales down and take a little steel with it as well.

Fitting the scale bolster to the sheath has been a lil bit of a challenge too.

Going to mask off the steel and hand sand from here.



I make fly rods as well. When thinking through keeping these lightweight I was turning a rod grip and realized the answer was in front of me. So, I made a cork handle for an iron will knife and epoxied it together, worked great. I then had a havalon blade scalpel handle I did, then my own two hunting blades.

It won't hold up to pounding if you tried to use it as a chisel. It is waterproof, stick when wet, cushy and grippy, and lightweight.

I then tired some without epoxy, and they are going strong.

@justin davis has a maxamet mule with a cork handle, I think he likes the handle but not the steel. @feanor has my cork handled skinner he made the blade for. That happens to also be s90v and I'd venture to say he will tell you it's sharp. View attachment 387911View attachment 387912View attachment 387913

View attachment 387916

Yeah the skinner from sndmn is super sharp.

 

[feanor]

Anyone have any recommendations on a field sharpener that would touch up this knife if needed, along with softer steels?

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I really like a simple ceramic rod to touch up anything. As mentioned before though, you can’t let the blade get dull before using it. Touching up with a ceramic rod needs to be done proactively.
It’s small, light and effective in the field.

 

[Blandry]

That thing laughed at the ceramic stone on my worksharp ken onion bench top angle sharpener. I even worked it a bit with the fine diamond (since it was already working sharp on arrival). I typically get my knives hair popping sharp and maintain them but this one was a different matter. I have had that much trouble with any of my knives other than the microtech with XHP steel.

I’ll have to get my edge apex pro and ken onion belt sharpener out of storage for this one. Might buy a silicon carbide stone for travel.


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[sndmn11]

We be done.


I carry a steel from gossmer, but it weighs more than my knives combined and I don't need it. I've found keeping fat/blood/hair done funking the edge is more important.

https://shop.gossmanknives.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fgst-gossman-survival-tool-large

A single ceramic rod would be fine like one of the Spyderco triangles. I got the polish edge on this with an untreated strip of leather, no reason that wouldn't work in the field.

 

[Blandry]

That looks great Kyle! Thank you sir.

 

[Clearedhot1]

We be done.
View attachment 388019View attachment 388020View attachment 388021View attachment 388022

I carry a steel from gossmer, but it weighs more than my knives combined and I don't need it. I've found keeping fat/blood/hair done funking the edge is more important.

https://shop.gossmanknives.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fgst-gossman-survival-tool-large

A single ceramic rod would be fine like one of the Spyderco triangles. I got the polish edge on this with an untreated strip of leather, no reason that wouldn't work in the field.

View attachment 388023

Just post your address already so those of us who ordered can have our knives rerouted to your place for corking. Looks awesome, man.


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[sndmn11]

Just post your address already so those of us who ordered can have our knives rerouted to your place for corking. Looks awesome, man.


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I have had a few PMs already. I am 100% confident in the unglued pin "system" that I implemented. I am about 90% confident on the cork that is going into the sheath. It should wear to fit, but i also had to reduce the thickness a bit to use the factory sheath. So, there's a 10% chance it might break rather than wear on the part. Because of that, I can't take money for these or do them for folks I don't know and are local. @Blandry is like ten minutes away so if something goes wonky I can fix it.

Here is where I get my cork. https://customflygrips.com/en/10-cork-blocks-strips

The good news is that you genuinely cannot hurt the blade in any manner beyond cosmetic in trying this on your own. Some broken arrow shafts and you are in business. I'm happy to walk anyone though it if wanted.

 

[sndmn11]

Apparently there's a giveaway too

 

[ShakeDown]

That looks great!

 

[Lawnboi]

I wouldn’t carry anything for field sharpening with an s90v knife. I’d keep proper sharpening gear in the truck. I’ll caveat this by saying I never have and probably never will cut up a moose, I’m a poor.

For touch ups a stone, or diamond card. Fallkniven stone/diamond is my choice, and or leather impregnated with diamond cbn.

Fallkniven DC521 Benchstone

Shop over 20,000 knives from Bark River, Spyderco, Microtech, Benchmade, and more. Hard-to-find knives, DLT-exclusive deals, and custom knife engraving.

www.dlttrading.com

They make smaller versions as well but they are a pain in the ass.

As noted above, soft stuff dosnt do squat to a properly heat treaded s90v steel.

 

[rtkbowhunter]

Damn you Rokslide!! Just cost me another $63...

Apparently there's a giveaway too
View attachment 388054

So what's first prize?

 

[tanker]

Thanks for the discount code. Still worked. Made me feel a little better about buying something I don’t really need.

 

[CAH]

I have had a few PMs already. I am 100% confident in the unglued pin "system" that I implemented. I am about 90% confident on the cork that is going into the sheath. It should wear to fit, but i also had to reduce the thickness a bit to use the factory sheath. So, there's a 10% chance it might break rather than wear on the part. Because of that, I can't take money for these or do them for folks I don't know and are local. @Blandry is like ten minutes away so if something goes wonky I can fix it.

Here is where I get my cork. https://customflygrips.com/en/10-cork-blocks-strips

The good news is that you genuinely cannot hurt the blade in any manner beyond cosmetic in trying this on your own. Some broken arrow shafts and you are in business. I'm happy to walk anyone though it if wanted.

Could you explain the pin system with no epoxy? Do you glue the pins in place solely and dont put the epoxy on the backs of the cork? Thanks in advance!

 

[sndmn11]

Could you explain the pin system with no epoxy? Do you glue the pins in place solely and dont put the epoxy on the backs of the cork? Thanks in advance!

Nothing is glued.

The two arrow shafts are just pushed from each end towards the center to the point of where they stop. In the center I have a micarta rod that is .187ish. All three pins keep the scales from sliding up/down, and the pins on the end keep it from going forward/back.

The holes are drilled to fit tight, and the cork grabs the pins. I genuinely have to put the drill bit in backwards and push with my weight down on the table to get the pins to move out. The fore/aft tension helps as well in keeping things taught.

Next time you pop a cork on a bottle, save it. Pop a drill bit in the press that is skinny and drill a hole. Then flip it and push it in that hole. Itll take more effort to get in and out than you thought. Now do it with progressively bigger diameter. Bigger diamter means more surface area for grabbing, then do the same if you have a broken arrow shaft somewhere.

 

[Ram94]

I have had a few PMs already. I am 100% confident in the unglued pin "system" that I implemented. I am about 90% confident on the cork that is going into the sheath. It should wear to fit, but i also had to reduce the thickness a bit to use the factory sheath. So, there's a 10% chance it might break rather than wear on the part. Because of that, I can't take money for these or do them for folks I don't know and are local. @Blandry is like ten minutes away so if something goes wonky I can fix it.

Here is where I get my cork. https://customflygrips.com/en/10-cork-blocks-strips

The good news is that you genuinely cannot hurt the blade in any manner beyond cosmetic in trying this on your own. Some broken arrow shafts and you are in business. I'm happy to walk anyone though it if wanted.

Nice work Sndmn!

Which blocks did you start with? 0.5” x 2” x 12”? Also, what is the final weight of the knife now? Cork is deceiving.

Thanks!

 

[Team4LongGun]

Did anybody get confirmation on USA made?

 

[sndmn11]

I have had a few PMs already. I am 100% confident in the unglued pin "system" that I implemented. I am about 90% confident on the cork that is going into the sheath. It should wear to fit, but i also had to reduce the thickness a bit to use the factory sheath. So, there's a 10% chance it might break rather than wear on the part. Because of that, I can't take money for these or do them for folks I don't know and are local. @Blandry is like ten minutes away so if something goes wonky I can fix it.

Nice work Sndmn!

Which blocks did you start with? 0.5” x 2” x 12”? Also, what is the final weight of the knife now? Cork is deceiving.

Thanks!

That one was 1,5" square but it was short. So, I ripped maybe 3/8" thickness, then cut that in half and glued it perpendicular to the length.

If you started off at 1/2" - 3/8" scale thickness on each side you will have enough.

My guess is 1>oz for the cork, I will weigh tomorrow if I remember.