kswaterfowl
WKR
- Joined
- Apr 3, 2020
- Messages
- 310
I had this exact thing happen to me last fall while hunting. In the moment I couldn’t figure out what was causing the rounds to not fire and it caused some unnecessary chaos. Luckily I got the deer and after the fact I was able to quickly determine the cause, made me feel silly.All the oversized and extended bolt knobs and handles do that. We need a T1x bolt handle/knob for the T3. It will be slightly more effort to lift due to less leverage, but will completely eliminate the accidental push up that causes the rifle not to fire.
Just out of curiosity what does the t1x handle/knob do differently than the oversized t3x knobs?
Oh ya, that’s way shorter, wonder if a factory t3x handle can be cut and threaded to accept aftermarket bolt knobs?The shaft is shorter, and it’s straight, not angled.
These are both with the vertical hips, and the Tourbon knobs but you can see the difference-
T3View attachment 532976
T1-
View attachment 532979
In contrast, here’s the Sauer 100, which is about right-
View attachment 532980
Oh ya, that’s way shorter, wonder if a factory t3x handle can be cut and threaded to accept aftermarket bolt knobs?
Ehh it’ll be fun to tinker with and you may end up loving it haha. I have an extra handle I’m kinda debating cutting and trying to thread or have threaded.I've wondered the same. A portion of the factory handle is hollow from the knob up into the thinner shaft area. Attempting to cut and thread one by hand is on my to-do list despite the potential thinness of the shaft walls.
I'll probably find a way to make it work and it's probably not going to be worth the effort, but what the hell.
Who did the fluting? The deep spiral has grown on me…
Kampfeld Customs. HIGHLY recommend Karl for all of your gunsmith needs. First class human who does first class work.Who did the fluting? The deep spiral has grown on me…
He skeletonized my tikka and heavily fluted the bolt. He does great work for sure!Kampfeld Customs. HIGHLY recommend Karl for all of your gunsmith needs. First class human who does first class work.
I emailed krg about the possibility of a bravo lite, here is there response.
“Juan, there may be a project down the line that may be what you are looking for. This said it will not happen soon. We are developing multiple projects that customers have been asking for, but this process takes time. Be sure to check our website for new announcement.
-KRG”
However, this got me to thinking. Has anyone looked at the chassis close enough to see if there is any way to shave off a decent enough amount of weight with a mill without compromising the integrity of the stock? The more I shoot with it for more I like it, I just wish it was closer in weight to the xlr/hnt26.
I emailed krg about the possibility of a bravo lite, here is there response.
“Juan, there may be a project down the line that may be what you are looking for. This said it will not happen soon. We are developing multiple projects that customers have been asking for, but this process takes time. Be sure to check our website for new announcement.
-KRG”
However, this got me to thinking. Has anyone looked at the chassis close enough to see if there is any way to shave off a decent enough amount of weight with a mill without compromising the integrity of the stock? The more I shoot with it for more I like it, I just wish it was closer in weight to the xlr/hnt26.
[mention]Formidilosus [/mention]i noticed all you pics had metal magazines, are they more reliable or less likely to come unlatched inadvertently?
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Those stocks use AICS mags.
Yes sorry I was meaning to ask about the difference between metal aics mags vs. magpul aics mags
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I've been using the MDT polymer 5rd mags in two Tikka Bravos and they work perfectly. The 3 round version does not fit.Yes sorry I was meaning to ask about the difference between metal aics mags vs. magpul aics mags
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