How do you debur and chamfer consistently on a budget?

What tolerance do you consider is "consistently"? How much do you think it matters? De-burr manually and carry on. FWIW I've de-burred manually for decades and it is what it is. If you're a high volume reloader go buy a machine but for the rest, do it manually if that's what you've got because one isn't going to be better than the other accuracy wise.

For outside I use a Forster hand crank spinner thingy with a Wilson (noted below) deburr tool in it and for inside I use a homemade aluminum handle holder thing with a carbide die grinding burr in it that I spin by hand.
 
My multi step process.
1- Chuck chamfer tool in small drill press next to my bench and turn it on.
2-Briefly touch cases to spinning chamfer tool. 3-Repeat as needed.
4-Be glad I only actually do this for the few flat base bullets I load. Boat tails seem to find their way in and shoot just fine.
5-Reminisce about the period of my life where I obsessed over this sort of thing.


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Your goal with chamfer/deburring is to just break the edge (as has been stated above) so that it doesn’t cut into a bullet while seating and to clean up any micro burrs on the outside of the neck. Its not to make a cookie cutter. We have a tendency to overthink things in reloading. No need to with deburring/chamfering.
 
I do the same. Hasn't given me any issues in 20+ years. I think this is something that people really overthink.
couldn't agree more! I don't even weigh powder charges for some of my loads. Never mess with seating depth. Somehow all my guns still shoot good. This is a 30 round group out of my 223. used a powder dropper, after getting it set I haven't measured a single one on a scale.

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I’ve always done mine by hand with the tools mounted on my reloading bench. 3 twists and on to the next peice. Never had any difficulty finding accuracy. Don’t let it get complicated like everyone else said
 
I know you said on a budget, but getting a case prep station was one of the best investments I've made. I bought the Burstfire annealer with the case prep station to get more bang for the buck, and now it takes about 4 seconds per case to chamfer, deburr, and nylon brush necks.
 
Deburring, cleaning primer pockets, or even trimming to length with a handheld Lee trimmer, are some of the things that can be done sitting in front of the boob tube.

Even the cheapest chamfer tool can be sharpened a little and it will work as good as any expensive hand held model - the softer steel will dull faster, but don’t think inexpensive won’t work. VLD models with a more pointed taper require the least effort.
 
Started with the Lyman handheld ($30). Couple hundred cases later I decided to pony up with a $10 drill converter for the pieces. Start with 2 boxes - one empty and one resized cases. Put on the deburr tool and debur them all over to the empty box, then swap attachments and chamfer on the way back too the original box. Zip tie or small clamp to get the drill at a slow speed and ride em out.

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Edit: tip my 15yr old pointed out to me after I bitched about twisting the two-sided lyman tool and trying to keep it straight... unscrew the "body" and use it as a two smaller tools. Worked much better and easier to keep "consistent".
 
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