How do you debur and chamfer consistently on a budget?

What tolerance do you consider is "consistently"? How much do you think it matters? De-burr manually and carry on. FWIW I've de-burred manually for decades and it is what it is. If you're a high volume reloader go buy a machine but for the rest, do it manually if that's what you've got because one isn't going to be better than the other accuracy wise.

For outside I use a Forster hand crank spinner thingy with a Wilson (noted below) deburr tool in it and for inside I use a homemade aluminum handle holder thing with a carbide die grinding burr in it that I spin by hand.
 
I don't think the difference matters.

Out of the list of things that probably don't matter and get worried about in reloading, this has to be near the most irrelevant. Unless you sell fance tools, then it really, super duper matters bunches.
 
My multi step process.
1- Chuck chamfer tool in small drill press next to my bench and turn it on.
2-Briefly touch cases to spinning chamfer tool. 3-Repeat as needed.
4-Be glad I only actually do this for the few flat base bullets I load. Boat tails seem to find their way in and shoot just fine.
5-Reminisce about the period of my life where I obsessed over this sort of thing.


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Your goal with chamfer/deburring is to just break the edge (as has been stated above) so that it doesn’t cut into a bullet while seating and to clean up any micro burrs on the outside of the neck. Its not to make a cookie cutter. We have a tendency to overthink things in reloading. No need to with deburring/chamfering.
 
I do the same. Hasn't given me any issues in 20+ years. I think this is something that people really overthink.
couldn't agree more! I don't even weigh powder charges for some of my loads. Never mess with seating depth. Somehow all my guns still shoot good. This is a 30 round group out of my 223. used a powder dropper, after getting it set I haven't measured a single one on a scale.

IMG_3018.jpeg
 
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