DIY Tikka Barrel Swap, By Dioni Amuchastegui

I’ve removed a factory barrel from an old R700 and swapped prefits around on my bighorn origins using a viper vise. Was ready to send my tikka 223 off for chopping and muzzle threads. Figured I would see what the hype was about removing a tikka barrel. Well the hype was true, it was not easy. Destroyed my viper vise, but I got the barrel off. Bent the top plate and some of the nuts are fused to the bolts. It kept slipping even with leather wrapped around it. Ordered a new SAC bravo vise and kit to replace the viper. IMG_2273.jpeg
 
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I’ve removed a factory barrel from an old R700 and swapped prefits around on my bighorn origins using a viper vise. Was ready to send my tikka 223 off for chopping and muzzle threads. Figured I would see what the hype was about removing a tikka barrel. Well the hype was true, it was not easy. Destroyed my viper vise, but I got the barrel off. Bent the top plate and some of the nuts are fused to the bolts. It kept slipping even with leather wrapped around it. Ordered a new SAC bravo vise and kit to replace the viper. View attachment 633260
I couldn't get it to grip with leather. Toilet paper rolls worked much better for me.
 
I’ve removed a factory barrel from an old R700 and swapped prefits around on my bighorn origins using a viper vise. Was ready to send my tikka 223 off for chopping and muzzle threads. Figured I would see what the hype was about removing a tikka barrel. Well the hype was true, it was not easy. Destroyed my viper vise, but I got the barrel off. Bent the top plate and some of the nuts are fused to the bolts. It kept slipping even with leather wrapped around it. Ordered a new SAC bravo vise and kit to replace the viper. View attachment 633260
Did you use a cheater? If so, how long was it?
 
RE cheater: my breaker bar is only 24” long and gets 95% of the barrels off. I’ll use a 3’ section of pipe for a cheater for the other 5%. The old T3 is tougher to remove than the new T3X. Stainless seems easier for both than the chrome moly.
One thing that helps if proper leverage
My vice is mounted so that I can get behind the action so I’m actually pulling down and toward myself if that makes sense. Much easier than trying to be perpendicular


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Did you use a cheater? If so, how long was it?
I lost my real cheater (4' metal pipe). Managed to use a short piece of PVC pipe, although sketchy AF, I managed to make it work. I would say the amount of the PVC that I used added about 6" to the wrench, which already had a 1.5-2' bar on it.
 
I lost my real cheater (4' metal pipe). Managed to use a short piece of PVC pipe, although sketchy AF, I managed to make it work. I would say the amount of the PVC that I used added about 6" to the wrench, which already had a 1.5-2' bar on it.

I’ve been in the oilfield for 17 years albeit the last 14 in the office but cheaters are a staple. We bent a 60” Rigid once trying to use a 10k forklift to stand on it.


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I’ve been in the oilfield for 17 years albeit the last 14 in the office but cheaters are a staple. We bent a 60” Rigid once trying to use a 10k forklift to stand on it.


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I spent a year in the field as a wellhead tech and snapped a 60 aluminum with an extended lift too. The smaller backup on the ground held though. Being an office bitch for the last 10 years, I’ve lost track of some of my tools. Don’t worry, one ended up in my truck today before I left the shop.
 
I spent a year in the field as a wellhead tech and snapped a 60 aluminum with an extended lift too. The smaller backup on the ground held though. Being an office bitch for the last 10 years, I’ve lost track of some of my tools. Don’t worry, one ended up in my truck today before I left the shop.

It’s amazing the stuff we do with other peoples money!


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FYI, SAC bravo full kit is onsale for $200, obviously more expensive that the viper/pma vises but seems a bit more robust too.
I trashed my viper vise. Purchased the SAC bravo kit on Black Friday for $225 (cheaper now) and it is a much more robust and well built vise than the viper. Highly recommend purchasing this one over the viper.
 
It's been said before, but bears repeating - do not attempt to remove a Tikka factory barrel using an internal wrench. I have the Bugholes and it's great for torquing barrels on. But whether it's your first time or the next time, you will eventually snap off an internal wrench inside an action, trying to break a barrel loose.

-J
Does that just apply to removing a factory barrel? Would you use an internal action wrench to remove a barrel that was torqued on to say 80-90 ft lbs or are you going external any time you’re removing a barrel?
 
Does that just apply to removing a factory barrel? Would you use an internal action wrench to remove a barrel that was torqued on to say 80-90 ft lbs or are you going external any time you’re removing a barrel?

For me, it is just for factory barrel removal that I use the Wheeler wrench. Once I torque the new barrel on with my internal wrench, if I need to pull it again, I use the internal wrench.
 
I trashed my viper vise. Purchased the SAC bravo kit on Black Friday for $225 (cheaper now) and it is a much more robust and well built vise than the viper. Highly recommend purchasing this one over the viper.
I ordered with a Tikka bushing. I have 4 tikkas (2 factory barrels still) and kids who need practice and with the prefit offerings now available seems wise to tool up. :)
 
I am using a wheeler wrench and a mechforce barrel vise for my tikka.

Where on the barrel would yall recommend to put the barrel vise? The only kinda flat spot is the first inch up against the reciever. The next is further down the barrel

Anyone know how much I can tighten the barrel vise? I have tried a toilet paper roll and 30ftlbs on the vise, but it slips.

I plan on trying penetrating oil and brown sugar and more vise torque next. I am glad I found this thread.
 
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