DIY Tikka Barrel Swap, By Dioni Amuchastegui

Joined
Mar 15, 2021
Messages
59
I’ve removed a factory barrel from an old R700 and swapped prefits around on my bighorn origins using a viper vise. Was ready to send my tikka 223 off for chopping and muzzle threads. Figured I would see what the hype was about removing a tikka barrel. Well the hype was true, it was not easy. Destroyed my viper vise, but I got the barrel off. Bent the top plate and some of the nuts are fused to the bolts. It kept slipping even with leather wrapped around it. Ordered a new SAC bravo vise and kit to replace the viper. IMG_2273.jpeg
 
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Dioni A

Basque Assassin
Shoot2HuntU
Joined
Mar 29, 2016
Messages
1,810
Location
Nampa, Idaho
I’ve removed a factory barrel from an old R700 and swapped prefits around on my bighorn origins using a viper vise. Was ready to send my tikka 223 off for chopping and muzzle threads. Figured I would see what the hype was about removing a tikka barrel. Well the hype was true, it was not easy. Destroyed my viper vise, but I got the barrel off. Bent the top plate and some of the nuts are fused to the bolts. It kept slipping even with leather wrapped around it. Ordered a new SAC bravo vise and kit to replace the viper. View attachment 633260
I couldn't get it to grip with leather. Toilet paper rolls worked much better for me.
 

josh0513

FNG
Joined
Nov 10, 2022
Messages
13
Location
TX
I’ve removed a factory barrel from an old R700 and swapped prefits around on my bighorn origins using a viper vise. Was ready to send my tikka 223 off for chopping and muzzle threads. Figured I would see what the hype was about removing a tikka barrel. Well the hype was true, it was not easy. Destroyed my viper vise, but I got the barrel off. Bent the top plate and some of the nuts are fused to the bolts. It kept slipping even with leather wrapped around it. Ordered a new SAC bravo vise and kit to replace the viper. View attachment 633260
Did you use a cheater? If so, how long was it?
 

amassi

WKR
Joined
May 26, 2018
Messages
3,967
RE cheater: my breaker bar is only 24” long and gets 95% of the barrels off. I’ll use a 3’ section of pipe for a cheater for the other 5%. The old T3 is tougher to remove than the new T3X. Stainless seems easier for both than the chrome moly.
One thing that helps if proper leverage
My vice is mounted so that I can get behind the action so I’m actually pulling down and toward myself if that makes sense. Much easier than trying to be perpendicular


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Joined
Mar 15, 2021
Messages
59
Did you use a cheater? If so, how long was it?
I lost my real cheater (4' metal pipe). Managed to use a short piece of PVC pipe, although sketchy AF, I managed to make it work. I would say the amount of the PVC that I used added about 6" to the wrench, which already had a 1.5-2' bar on it.
 

josh0513

FNG
Joined
Nov 10, 2022
Messages
13
Location
TX
I lost my real cheater (4' metal pipe). Managed to use a short piece of PVC pipe, although sketchy AF, I managed to make it work. I would say the amount of the PVC that I used added about 6" to the wrench, which already had a 1.5-2' bar on it.

I’ve been in the oilfield for 17 years albeit the last 14 in the office but cheaters are a staple. We bent a 60” Rigid once trying to use a 10k forklift to stand on it.


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Joined
Mar 15, 2021
Messages
59
I’ve been in the oilfield for 17 years albeit the last 14 in the office but cheaters are a staple. We bent a 60” Rigid once trying to use a 10k forklift to stand on it.


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I spent a year in the field as a wellhead tech and snapped a 60 aluminum with an extended lift too. The smaller backup on the ground held though. Being an office bitch for the last 10 years, I’ve lost track of some of my tools. Don’t worry, one ended up in my truck today before I left the shop.
 

josh0513

FNG
Joined
Nov 10, 2022
Messages
13
Location
TX
I spent a year in the field as a wellhead tech and snapped a 60 aluminum with an extended lift too. The smaller backup on the ground held though. Being an office bitch for the last 10 years, I’ve lost track of some of my tools. Don’t worry, one ended up in my truck today before I left the shop.

It’s amazing the stuff we do with other peoples money!


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Joined
Mar 15, 2021
Messages
59
FYI, SAC bravo full kit is onsale for $200, obviously more expensive that the viper/pma vises but seems a bit more robust too.
I trashed my viper vise. Purchased the SAC bravo kit on Black Friday for $225 (cheaper now) and it is a much more robust and well built vise than the viper. Highly recommend purchasing this one over the viper.
 

BlackTail

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Dec 3, 2012
Messages
186
Location
SW, Wa
It's been said before, but bears repeating - do not attempt to remove a Tikka factory barrel using an internal wrench. I have the Bugholes and it's great for torquing barrels on. But whether it's your first time or the next time, you will eventually snap off an internal wrench inside an action, trying to break a barrel loose.

-J
Does that just apply to removing a factory barrel? Would you use an internal action wrench to remove a barrel that was torqued on to say 80-90 ft lbs or are you going external any time you’re removing a barrel?
 
Joined
Jan 27, 2022
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Does that just apply to removing a factory barrel? Would you use an internal action wrench to remove a barrel that was torqued on to say 80-90 ft lbs or are you going external any time you’re removing a barrel?

For me, it is just for factory barrel removal that I use the Wheeler wrench. Once I torque the new barrel on with my internal wrench, if I need to pull it again, I use the internal wrench.
 

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

WKR
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Mar 12, 2014
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Thornton, CO
I trashed my viper vise. Purchased the SAC bravo kit on Black Friday for $225 (cheaper now) and it is a much more robust and well built vise than the viper. Highly recommend purchasing this one over the viper.
I ordered with a Tikka bushing. I have 4 tikkas (2 factory barrels still) and kids who need practice and with the prefit offerings now available seems wise to tool up. :)
 

NSI

WKR
Shoot2HuntU
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Western Wyoming
Yes sorry if that was unclear. I only use the external to break the factory bond loose. For further swaps I go all internal.

-J
 
Joined
Jul 22, 2021
Messages
13
I am using a wheeler wrench and a mechforce barrel vise for my tikka.

Where on the barrel would yall recommend to put the barrel vise? The only kinda flat spot is the first inch up against the reciever. The next is further down the barrel

Anyone know how much I can tighten the barrel vise? I have tried a toilet paper roll and 30ftlbs on the vise, but it slips.

I plan on trying penetrating oil and brown sugar and more vise torque next. I am glad I found this thread.
 
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