DIY Tikka Barrel Swap, By Dioni Amuchastegui

[willfrye027]

I am using a wheeler wrench and a mechforce barrel vise for my tikka.

Where on the barrel would yall recommend to put the barrel vise? The only kinda flat spot is the first inch up against the reciever. The next is further down the barrel

Anyone know how much I can tighten the barrel vise? I have tried a toilet paper roll and 30ftlbs on the vise, but it slips.

I plan on trying penetrating oil and brown sugar and more vise torque next. I am glad I found this thread.

This is what I use. Doesn’t have to be perfectly flat where you clamp the barrel. Toilet paper roll works good. The key is to tighten the nuts in the correct order/follow the instructions. I have to tighten the hell out of them so it won’t slip. Incremental tightening in a star pattern. Keep playing with it until it doesn’t slip. I’ve had to use a rubber mallet a few times and that helps break it loose.

 

[wyosam]

If you want to make factory barrel removals easier with less screwing around- get everything ready- vice, external action wrench, etc and a small propane torch. put barreled action in the deep freeze overnight. Move fairly quickly through these steps (that’s why you set everything up already). Clamp barrel in vice with action wrench in place. I like to have a rubber or dead blow mallet handy- warm the action just behind the barrel (over the threads) briefly. Like a second or two. Whack the mallet with a hammer. Don’t need to wail on it, just need a little impact. They pop right off. I’ve done a bunch, some with the mallet, some just pulling on the action wrench. The temperature difference makes that bond much easier to break, so you’re not just brute forcing the thing apart.


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[HandgunHTR]

I am using a wheeler wrench and a mechforce barrel vise for my tikka.

Where on the barrel would yall recommend to put the barrel vise? The only kinda flat spot is the first inch up against the reciever. The next is further down the barrel

Anyone know how much I can tighten the barrel vise? I have tried a toilet paper roll and 30ftlbs on the vise, but it slips.

I plan on trying penetrating oil and brown sugar and more vise torque next. I am glad I found this thread.

I clamp mine right after the chamber portion of the barrel where the aggressive taper ends (about 2-3 inches from the action).

30 ft-lbs is not nearly enough. I use a Viper vise and tighten them down until they don't move with a 1/2 drive ratchet. I am guessing somewhere in the 100-125 ft-lb range.

The advise about using a little heat and a dead blow is good. That is how I do all of mine. I have yet to have one that didn't break loose on the first or second whack. Just remember to no over-tighten the Wheeler wrench on the action.

 

[ShadowAviator]

Rolled some printer paper around the barrel.

Snugged the vise down till the top plate bent.

Lifted up on the action wrench with my farm boy strength.

AND OFF THE BARREL CAME!

Thank you for help!

 

[Castle Rock]

Yep it isn’t that difficult even with the older ones
A lot of people are surprised when they hear it crack loose

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

Was back home over Christmas and grabbed a piece of steel off the rack and made up this for an external wrench to initially remove the factory barrels when the time comes, seems like it should work w/o slipping around (I'll wrap the action in drywall tape).

 

[HighUintas]

Was back home over Christmas and grabbed a piece of steel off the rack and made up this for an external wrench to initially remove the factory barrels when the time comes, seems like it should work w/o slipping around (I'll wrap the action in drywall tape).

I made up a homemade wrench similar to that and also made a makeshift barrel vice by taking a roughly 4" square piece of 2x4" and cutting the appropriate size hole with a hole saw in the middle. Then cut it in half through the middle of the block. After coating the barrel in front of the action with powdered sugar for extra grip, I clamped it in the wood block halves in my hydraulic press. I increased pressure only until it stopped slipping when I gave a blow to the action wrench handle.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

I made up a homemade wrench similar to that and also made a makeshift barrel vice by taking a roughly 4" square piece of 2x4" and cutting the appropriate size hole with a hole saw in the middle. Then cut it in half through the middle of the block. After coating the barrel in front of the action with powdered sugar for extra grip, I clamped it in the wood block halves in my hydraulic press. I increased pressure only until it stopped slipping when I gave a blow to the action wrench handle.

I got a SAC vise when it was on sale so solid there, I just didn't see the point of a wheeler wrench for a flat sided receiver when a piece of rectangular tubing was readily at hand. I'll get a proper inside wrench for torquing purposes still.

 

[Sled]

This stuff works better than other penetrating oils I've tried:

Free All Rust Eater Deep Penetrating Oil, 11 oz Aerosol https://a.co/d/9h16K8X


Also, bending the internal action wrench is a thing. Mine got stuck but did not break. I now use either the wheeler action wrench or a large crescent wrench with the internal at the same time. If I keep consistent pressure on the internal while hitting the external wrench I've had better luck with stubborn barrels. That said I have used the grinder on a barrel before.

I think the next round I might try the freezer with heat as suggested earlier in this thread.

 

[kad11]

I went full redneck today and let two barreled actions soak in the cold overnight. T3x 300 win mag and T3 30-06 factory barrels both came off without any trouble. I used a hot rice bag instead of a torch to warm the action and both barrels came loose with 2-3 smacks of the dead blow.

 

[HandgunHTR]

Was back home over Christmas and grabbed a piece of steel off the rack and made up this for an external wrench to initially remove the factory barrels when the time comes, seems like it should work w/o slipping around (I'll wrap the action in drywall tape).

I will assume that it will work fine for most of them. You may run into an issue with a stubborn one, though. The Wheeler puts the point of rotation at the centerline of the barrel. With the one pictured, it is off center. Additionally, all of the downward (or upward) force is going to be right where that outside bolt hole is. It could end up collapsing that square stock, or cracking at the hole. Probably won't, but I would recommend going easy the first time you use it.

 

[Legend]

I went full redneck today and let two barreled actions soak in the cold overnight. T3x 300 win mag and T3 30-06 factory barrels both came off without any trouble. I used a hot rice bag instead of a torch to warm the action and both barrels came loose with 2-3 smacks of the dead blow.

Good idea.

It was -37 this morning. Missed opportunity.

 

[kad11]

Good idea.

It was -37 this morning. Missed opportunity.

Yep, about the same here.

 

[wyosam]

I went full redneck today and let two barreled actions soak in the cold overnight. T3x 300 win mag and T3 30-06 factory barrels both came off without any trouble. I used a hot rice bag instead of a torch to warm the action and both barrels came loose with 2-3 smacks of the dead blow.

Bag of rice is a good idea- I might switch to that!


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[dpalinsk]

One thing I’ve found if you are searching on eBay for a used takeoff in a different caliber, is you have to search in a few different ways or the goofy search algorithms won’t show a lot of good deals. Of course search for “Tikka barrel”, but also ”rifle barrel” ”take off barrel” “takeoff barrel”. Look at every Tikka barrel that’s close or not just to see the other recommendations at the bottom of her page. I get the impression a lot of barrels turn up in abandoned storage lockers or estate sales and often someone doesn’t know what to call it.

Right now there is a 6.5 prc for $150, but 6.5 creed, 7 mag, 300 mag, 308, 223 have sold for under $100 - sometimes as low as $50-$60.

THANK YOU FOR THE eBay SEARCH TIPS ABOVE. Helped me locate a 243 takeoff barrel that I would have otherwise missed.

 

[TaperPin]

Glad it helped.

 

[ReaptheHeat]

Got my first one off. Once everything was set up properly it broke loose with a good tug. Had some rotation with the viper barrel vise that needed more torque. Overall my biggest problem was my workbench was the weak point. Its not anchored to a stud or the floor some I had to place a 45 lb plate on it to keep it on the ground.

 

[Tahoe1305]

Not sure it’s been mentioned yet.

Done half dozen or so but using a wheeler external wrench and barrel vice. Have always “torqued till it felt right”. It’s been fine. (No way to measure torque with external).

My latest wouldn’t torque and chamber rounds so i figured it was time to up the torque precision.

Snagged a SAC internal with a head for $140. Able to leave everything setup if you can torque the barrel in a vice well. 55ft lbs and effortless. I like the internal.

That said, anyone taking off factory barrels should buy the external. Internal only for putting on or switching after initial removal.

 

[Legend]

Got my first one off. Once everything was set up properly it broke loose with a good tug. Had some rotation with the viper barrel vise that needed more torque. Overall my biggest problem was my workbench was the weak point. Its not anchored to a stud or the floor some I had to place a 45 lb plate on it to keep it on the ground.

Good work.

Did you see @kad11 photo above where he showed his vice method? It is the photo where he anchored the vice into a board and the parked his truck on the board....genius!

 

[dpalinsk]

Got my first one off. Once everything was set up properly it broke loose with a good tug. Had some rotation with the viper barrel vise that needed more torque. Overall my biggest problem was my workbench was the weak point. Its not anchored to a stud or the floor some I had to place a 45 lb plate on it to keep it on the ground.

Congrats! I got my first one off yesterday and my biggest problem was my vice mounted to the workbench. It had way too much flex. I ended up packing everything and going to my buddy’s house to use his vice which was solidly floor mounted. Couple whacks with a small sledge and she broke free. 3-4 days of Kroil had penetrated all the way through the threads which may have helped. I was so relieved and pleased to see neither barrel got marred in the swap. Shout out to @Jimbee for the tool loan!