DIY, Homemade Electric Bear Fence- SAVE $$

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WKR
Joined
Jul 4, 2015
Messages
1,316
Location
Maryland
All,

I've made a couple fences to protect my base camp and food stash. Easy, cheap, small and very lightweight.

I use an AN90 charger for my base camp and food stash- 4D cells. It lasts 2 weeks. It has more volts than the AN20 2 D cell type, but is a little bigger/heavier. I use both of my fences at my base camp so I'm not worried too much RE size. 1 fence around the main tent , 1 fence around the food stash. If you plan to backpack with your fence, then get the smaller AN20, 2 cell charger it is lighter. I believe you can also find lithium D cell batteries if you search the web, they are much lighter than standard D cells which are dry lead/acid.

I made my own fence "posts" from old 3/8" diameter carbon fiber target arrow shafts I cut them into 14" sections or so and linked them together using homemade ferrules, but you could buy fiberglass or aluminum tent rod and ferrules as an alternate. YES- I know carbon fiber and aluminum conduct electricty-- that is why I developed a modified way to hang my polywire from the posts.

You will definitely need a way to put an anchored line at each corner stake to keep the poles from leaning inward due to line tension. I use an extra plastic clip at the top of each pole and run a thin line to a stake or a piece of branch as a stake. Also, to keep your polywire or polytape from grounding to your fence posts, grab a handful of thin plastic zip-ties, then make a 2" loop with a zip tie, put one on each of the nylon poly wire hangers and run your polywire through that loop, this creates a "standoff/spacer" will keep your polywire further away from the carbon fiber arrow or aluminum arrow shafts. Need to do that because carbon fiber or aluminum is an excellent conductor and if your polywires or polytape short to the carbon fiber or aluminum, then your shock charge will be lost to ground and make your fence useless.

Components Overview:

  1. "L" shaped Ground Rod made of bent 1/4" aluminum rod from Home Depot- about 12-16" long. **NOTE**-- Extremely dry ground will not provide a great ground path, same with a gravel sand bar if in AK. If you're on a gravel river shoal in AK or on parched, non-conductive ground you'll need to use both Hot wires AND Ground wires on your fence system. Or you can use "goat fence" style poly wire- but it's bulky and heavy and expensive.
  2. Poly wire- @Kevin Dill likes the wider, more obvious "polytape". He has to deal with grizzlies. I use the polywire for black bear since it packs up smaller. Either the Polytape or Polywire will be your conductive fence wire, it comes in 660ft rolls. You'll only use part of it. I run a 2 wire system, both wires are hot and the earth is my ground. I run the lower wire about 14" off the ground and the higher wire other around 30". My "Fence" posts/rods are about 40" long and I put them into the ground about 6-8". I installed small steel target points on them to make them easier to push into the soil.
    1. NOTE- I cut 2 pieces of foam pipe insulation about 1 ft long each and to store my wire, I wrap my wire around it like a reel. Lightweight, works great.
  3. Plastic line tensioners from any camping tent seller like REI to tension your poly wire and to tension your corner fence post guylines.
  4. Small metal carabiners so you can unclip your line and make a gate. BE SURE TO SAND OFF ANY PAINT OR CLEAR COAT. I used cheap, tiny carabiners from an online place. REI has also carries small ones used for keys- made of stainless steel. Pretty cool.
  5. Charger- I use a Speedright brand, AN-90 charger with 4 D cells batteries because it packs a stronger shock. Batteries will last about 2 weeks. Set the shock frequency to fast speed interval on the charger. You can also use the AN 20 with 2D cells, it's lighter but a little less shock.
  6. Batteries- I use Eveready D cells. I think you can find Lithium D cells online now, they'll be expensive but lighter weight. And if you get depressed during your hunt, you can eat them. [Lithium humor/joke]
  7. When I set up my fence, I'll break a 'Y' shaped branch off a tree, put a small 2" string loop on my charger and, then jam the branch in the ground and hang my charger off the Y branch inside the fence within arms length of the perimeter of my fence so I can arm/disarm it by reaching through the fence lines.
IMPORTANT-- Here's how to hook it all up from something I found on the web:
How To Install An Electric Bear Fence

You can get most electric fence supplies at Premier1-- Premier 1


Hope this helps!

Best,

JL
 

palefty45

FNG
Joined
Feb 15, 2021
Messages
27
We used carbon fiber crossbow bolts and screwed them together. then issed black tap (insulator) and zip ties to hold the wire. the poles are superlite. I do agree you have to line them out since the wire tension is strong at the top
 

lintond

WKR
Joined
Mar 17, 2013
Messages
1,611
Location
Oregon
I built my own fence as well. Spliced two arrows together with an aluminum arrow and added a guy out line. Using a sureguard energizer and 18” 1/2” aluminum pipe that I flattened a point on for ground rod. With about 18’ square poly tape I’m coming in right around 2 # 4oz. Including a tester. Gives me some piece of mind while sleeping and helps keep the wife from worrying about me as much.
 
Joined
Apr 17, 2019
Messages
13
Location
Northern WI
@lintond could you attach a picture of your arrow posts and clips? Building a fence out now with a Speedrite AN20, Polywire, but hung up on if I should just buy the push in grazing stakes designed for polywire and put up with the extra weight.
Was planning on cutting this post in half then welding a ferrule with thumb screw in the middle to break them down.

1658417052366.png
 

lintond

WKR
Joined
Mar 17, 2013
Messages
1,611
Location
Oregon
@lintond could you attach a picture of your arrow posts and clips? Building a fence out now with a Speedrite AN20, Polywire, but hung up on if I should just buy the push in grazing stakes designed for polywire and put up with the extra weight.
Was planning on cutting this post in half then welding a ferrule with thumb screw in the middle to break them down.

View attachment 430790

I took two arrows per post and cut them 18” long so I get 30” of height with 6” in the ground. The arrows were from the lost/damaged bin at our range so they cost me nothing. Cut an aluminum arrow 3” and epoxied on one shaft to splice them together, and also added a couple small pieces to set the height of the clips. Added a piece of cordage that I epoxied into the top of the bottom arrow thread up through the top portion. When the cord is tensioned it keeps the two halves together without any threads. Post + MSR stake is 2 oz. Got the clips and energizer at https://eaglesafety.info/outdoorsafety/bearguard/electrobearguard-parts.html

f7f6ccc05d6d83bcf76b5d0afe4fd347.jpg

86e8bb354b69b05551fadd274ac0a134.jpg



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Legend

WKR
Joined
Jun 13, 2017
Messages
942
Skip the posts. Use threaded insulators and skrew them into existing trees. 9 insulators is the minimum for a triangle shaped fence.
 
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GotDraw?

WKR
Joined
Jul 4, 2015
Messages
1,316
Location
Maryland
Skip the posts. Use threaded insulators and skrew them into existing trees. 9 insulators is the minimum for a triangle shaped fence.
That can definitely work IF you have trees. And trees that are conveniently placed and at reasonable intervals.
And at every campsite you plan to use. And around your kill, where ever it drops.

JL
 
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