Dilemma: Semi custom Tikka build on budget vs. 7PRC factory rifle. UPDATED: Decision Made and Build Complete

sndmn11

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Have you taken elk with that load yet? If so, how did it perform?
Nope, that rifle is sending bergers for my brother this year.

The same bullet hit a mule deer from a creedmoor at about 2600fps impact velocity and left a side walk of blood for 40-50 yards up to the dead buck. It has been the best terminal damage from a mono I have seen, but was just a sample of one.
 
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DisplacedHusky

DisplacedHusky

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Question for those who have had a semi custom rifle made on a Tikka action. Does switching to a different magazine or keeping the factory mags depend on what chassis or stock you choose? If a switch is required, is this something that necessitates a gunsmith or can it be DIY?
 

NSI

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Question for those who have had a semi custom rifle made on a Tikka action. Does switching to a different magazine or keeping the factory mags depend on what chassis or stock you choose? If a switch is required, is this something that necessitates a gunsmith or can it be DIY?
Every chassis that I know of automatically converts the Tikka to use AICS magazines.

For most traditional aftermarket stocks, you are provided with an inlet into which you can fit either T3x or CTR style bottom metal (or plastic). If you choose T3x bottom plastic, you'll continue using standard plastic mags. If you choose CTR bottom metal, you'll use CTR mags. If you choose one of the aftermarket conversion bottom metals that takes T3x or CTR inlets to AICS, you'll use AICS mags.

-J
 

Reburn

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Question for those who have had a semi custom rifle made on a Tikka action. Does switching to a different magazine or keeping the factory mags depend on what chassis or stock you choose? If a switch is required, is this something that necessitates a gunsmith or can it be DIY?

I do have a question and I didnt see it answered anywhere but I think I know the answer.

Why the 7 PRC? Have you considered a smaller round that will kick less and be easier to shoot. Also cheaper to buy ammo for.

I can get about 700 yards until 1800 fps out of my 20" barrel 6 creed 108 eldm. I get 850 our of my 6.5 PRC 147 eldm Both of those can be bought at less than $2 a round. Are you hung up on the copper monos because you have to or just because you want to? Are you in CA?
 
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I think you are asking a little too much. An extra 500-600 for a specific chambering that does not have much in factory ammo available yet, especially not monos

1MOA rifle shooting limited options of factory ammo

I’d go in a completely different direction but a more realistic option close to what you want would be a tikka in 7mag. Save on the rebarrel and get a better stock that will help manage recoil effectively. Should be plenty of factory mono options.

7mag (or PRC for that matter) with monos is going to suck at any kind of long distance because of the wind drift and lower BC. This is from personal experience. I’ve hot rodded a couple 7mags with hand loads and monos…it’s tough to shoot them well beyond 500 yards.
 

NSI

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Husky,
This is all very simple. Let me try to break this down.

1) You like Tikkas, so do we.
2) You have a Tikka with a standard bolt face.
3) You've decided on 7 PRC, which requires a magnum bolt face.
4) You can try to trade your magnum for a standard bolt face Tikka bolt here on Rokslide, which will probably take a few weeks but eventually work out just fine.
5) Alternately, you can sell your used 30'06 Tikka and start from scratch with a Tikka that already has a magnum bolt. Used Tikkas go for so close to new pricing that it'll be nearly a wash.
6) Donor Tikka candidates are ideally a 300WM or a 7Rem Mag since they have the only two things you need - a magnum bolt face (big deal) and a magnum length bolt stop (30 bucks aftermarket). You could grab a 6.5 PRC and swap the bolt stop if that was cheaper for some reason.
7) Anywho, let's assume you now have a Tikka action with a barrel you don't want but the correct bolt and bolt stop.
8) You'll pay 500 bucks over Black Friday for a PBB or PVA Osprey 7 PRC pre-fit, and send them your action to have them swap barrels. You do not want to be in the Tikka barrel removal business yet. It is not a trivial matter.
9) You then get to decide if you want to change stocks. I would. For standard stocks the consensus is the Stocky's VG (or upcoming Stocky's ROK I'd wait for), for hybrids it's the KRG Bravo, and for chassis it's the XLR mg4. You do not need help for any of that. You'll pull two bolts, drop your barreled action into your new stock, and torque two bolts. You can decide to sell your old barrel and stock for 1-200 bucks or not.

Hope this helps,
-J
 

swavescatter

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Actually I learned today that Stockys will not be offering the ROK stock. They are producing it and it will be sold through someone else. My guess is Unknown Munitions.

My VG2 is still backordered so I tried to just get store credit towards the ROK
 
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Actually I learned today that Stockys will not be offering the ROK stock. They are producing it and it will be sold through someone else. My guess is Unknown Munitions.

My VG2 is still backordered so I tried to just get store credit towards the ROK
I may be wrong but I thought it was said that the stock will be sold here on rokslide like the muzzle breaks are
 
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DisplacedHusky

DisplacedHusky

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Husky,
This is all very simple. Let me try to break this down.

1) You like Tikkas, so do we.
2) You have a Tikka with a standard bolt face.
3) You've decided on 7 PRC, which requires a magnum bolt face.
4) You can try to trade your magnum for a standard bolt face Tikka bolt here on Rokslide, which will probably take a few weeks but eventually work out just fine.
5) Alternately, you can sell your used 30'06 Tikka and start from scratch with a Tikka that already has a magnum bolt. Used Tikkas go for so close to new pricing that it'll be nearly a wash.
6) Donor Tikka candidates are ideally a 300WM or a 7Rem Mag since they have the only two things you need - a magnum bolt face (big deal) and a magnum length bolt stop (30 bucks aftermarket). You could grab a 6.5 PRC and swap the bolt stop if that was cheaper for some reason.
7) Anywho, let's assume you now have a Tikka action with a barrel you don't want but the correct bolt and bolt stop.
8) You'll pay 500 bucks over Black Friday for a PBB or PVA Osprey 7 PRC pre-fit, and send them your action to have them swap barrels. You do not want to be in the Tikka barrel removal business yet. It is not a trivial matter.
9) You then get to decide if you want to change stocks. I would. For standard stocks the consensus is the Stocky's VG (or upcoming Stocky's ROK I'd wait for), for hybrids it's the KRG Bravo, and for chassis it's the XLR mg4. You do not need help for any of that. You'll pull two bolts, drop your barreled action into your new stock, and torque two bolts. You can decide to sell your old barrel and stock for 1-200 bucks or not.

Hope this helps,
-J
NSI,
Thank you for taking the time to type out a clear, concise and informative response. The option for a semi custom rifle build is exciting, but also a little overwhelming for a first-timer on a limited budget.

It seems like you have gone down this route before. Have you been more satisfied with your custom builds or your factory rifles of similar costs (whatever the budget may be)?
 
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DisplacedHusky

DisplacedHusky

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I do have a question and I didnt see it answered anywhere but I think I know the answer.

Why the 7 PRC? Have you considered a smaller round that will kick less and be easier to shoot. Also cheaper to buy ammo for.

I can get about 700 yards until 1800 fps out of my 20" barrel 6 creed 108 eldm. I get 850 our of my 6.5 PRC 147 eldm Both of those can be bought at less than $2 a round. Are you hung up on the copper monos because you have to or just because you want to? Are you in CA?
This gets a little outside the lines of my question to the forum and I don’t want to start a cartridge debate (at least in a thread where I’m asking for other advice), but the 7 PRC is the cartridge I’m hoping to do everything I want.

My decision would likely be completely different if I hand loaded (here’s looking at you .280 AI), had a more convenient range or was at a time in my life where free time was more prevalent. However, life is about compromises and I think the 6 creedmore is very intriguing but I am hoping to use this one rifle for mule deer and elk with the possibility of long shots in eastern WA. Lighter recoiling cartridges like the 6.8 Western and 6.5 PRC were high on my list because I like the modern case design and tighter tolerances that come with them. But it feels like the 6.8 is already loosing commercial steam and I’m dubious of of the 6.5 PRCs capabilities on large bulls and difficult shot angles at range, especially if I need to anchor one at the top of a canyon or other challenging scenarios. I also want to shoot suppressed and the 7PRC is efficient enough to perform well in shorter barrel lengths. It also feels like it will receive additional factory offering in rifles and ammo in the near future.
 
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This gets a little outside the lines of my question to the forum and I don’t want to start a cartridge debate (at least in a thread where I’m asking for other advice), but the 7 PRC is the cartridge I’m hoping to do everything I want.

My decision would likely be completely different if I hand loaded (here’s looking at you .280 AI), had a more convenient range or was at a time in my life where free time was more prevalent. However, life is about compromises and I think the 6 creedmore is very intriguing but I am hoping to use this one rifle for mule deer and elk with the possibility of long shots in eastern WA. Lighter recoiling cartridges like the 6.8 Western and 6.5 PRC were high on my list because I like the modern case design and tighter tolerances that come with them. But it feels like the 6.8 is already loosing commercial steam and I’m dubious of of the 6.5 PRCs capabilities on large bulls and difficult shot angles at range, especially if I need to anchor one at the top of a canyon or other challenging scenarios. I also want to shoot suppressed and the 7PRC is efficient enough to perform well in shorter barrel lengths. It also feels like it will receive additional factory offering in rifles and ammo in the near future.
Long shots, anchoring bulls, not much time for the range, and monos. Not realistic, unfortunately
 

Macintosh

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If you just want a 7PRC, obviously, go ahead and get one, but I do have two thoughts.

First, you said you don’t have time to go to the range often and fidget with stuff, if you don’t have time to practice that much, are you actually going to be capable of shooting at longer range anyway? I like the idea of shooting at longer range, and I want to be prepared for that equipment wise, but I question whether someone who can’t practice often is going to be able to take advantage of the incremental difference the cartridge has to offer in the first place.

Second, I have literally never seen a box of 7 PRC ammo in a gun shop. Never. I realize I live in a bit of a backwater, and you can buy online from most places, but if your goal is to be a one gun hunter, having that one gun be limited to an uncommon factory offering, even if it might increase slightly in the future, would be a dealbreaker for me. If I have only one option, I want it to be something super standard. That could be points against the 7PRC, or it could be points for keeping your 3006 intact as a back up.

Copper at longer range seems to be anemic in a lot of cases with factory ammo. I’m sure a 7PRC would do fine, although I have yet to find a rifle that likes the hornady superformance stuff that you mentioned. I think some of the conventional wisdom on calibers goes out the window as soon as you stipulate copper. I did a bit of a rearrange of one of my rifles this past year specifically to shoot copper, and ended up with a regular old 270 Winchester. Factory-loaded Barnes LRX maintains 2200 ft./s to 520 yards at 7000 feet elevation, and in a pinch I have ammo options in nearly any mom and pop store in the country. All without having to go the custom or semi-custom gun route, so I could put my extra budget into a more reliable scope and plenty of practice ammo. Given your specific goals, were I in your shoes I might at least entertain the idea of getting an eight or nine-twist 270Win barrel spun onto my existing rifle. If you do go the 7PRC route, I’d personally want to keep the 3006 intact as a back up in case I have problems finding ammunition in the future.
 
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Reburn

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This gets a little outside the lines of my question to the forum and I don’t want to start a cartridge debate (at least in a thread where I’m asking for other advice), but the 7 PRC is the cartridge I’m hoping to do everything I want.

My decision would likely be completely different if I hand loaded (here’s looking at you .280 AI), had a more convenient range or was at a time in my life where free time was more prevalent. However, life is about compromises and I think the 6 creedmore is very intriguing but I am hoping to use this one rifle for mule deer and elk with the possibility of long shots in eastern WA. Lighter recoiling cartridges like the 6.8 Western and 6.5 PRC were high on my list because I like the modern case design and tighter tolerances that come with them. But it feels like the 6.8 is already loosing commercial steam and I’m dubious of of the 6.5 PRCs capabilities on large bulls and difficult shot angles at range, especially if I need to anchor one at the top of a canyon or other challenging scenarios. I also want to shoot suppressed and the 7PRC is efficient enough to perform well in shorter barrel lengths. It also feels like it will receive additional factory offering in rifles and ammo in the near future.

You do make it hard to give you good advice when you deflect the question of why your stuck on a mono.

For what its worth the 7 PRC is the one that I will be skipping. The factory ammo is too costly and too few offerings. There is too much overlap between a 300 wsm and a 6.5 prc which I already have for it to be useful. It also recoils too much to practice a bunch with. Being a prc it will also likely only have a barrel life of 800-100 rounds which doesnt make it optimal for practice in a one gun scenario.

There is nothing in NA that I wouldnt kill with authority out to their minimum expansion velocity range with my 270, 6.5 prc, 6.5 creedmoor, 6 creed. Including elk. I would have no qualms about shooting an elk at 400 with my 6 creed shooting a 108 eldm.

As much as alot of us would like to help you it seems you have already made up your mind. Proceed with your 7 prc build and be happy. If you figure out later its not all its cracked up to be we will try and help you again with your next build.
 

MT_Wyatt

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I guess in reading this I’m surprised at all of the posts trying to steer the OP away from 7 PRC. I get the smaller/lighter cartridge will shoot better angle, but are you guys going to try and steer every poster ever to 6 creed? I love creedmoors but let the guy live a little? I think the plan on muzzle device matters as well, where recoil is concerned. 7 PRC certainly isn’t casual like a creedmoor. It isn’t overwhelming though.

7PRC ammo is everywhere in MT. Hell 180 eldm is down to $41/box online at sportsman’s guide. It’s been available consistently since launch and Hornady had said they’ve just been making it nonstop as it is adopted. The argument you can’t get it is not a reason to go 7 RM or otherwise.

Between 160cx and a Barnes LRX I’d think the Barnes is a better choice, but if you’re shooting factory than no reason to debate. I’d agree with others that there’s better choices and keeping it above 2000fps is wise.
 

NSI

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NSI,
Thank you for taking the time to type out a clear, concise and informative response. The option for a semi custom rifle build is exciting, but also a little overwhelming for a first-timer on a limited budget.

It seems like you have gone down this route before. Have you been more satisfied with your custom builds or your factory rifles of similar costs (whatever the budget may be)?
No prob.

My factory rifles are all sold. All I shoot and all I build now are Tikkas and ARs.

-J
 
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DisplacedHusky

DisplacedHusky

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If you just want a 7PRC, obviously, go ahead and get one, but I do have two thoughts.

First, you said you don’t have time to go to the range often and fidget with stuff, if you don’t have time to practice that much, are you actually going to be capable of shooting at longer range anyway? I like the idea of shooting at longer range, and I want to be prepared for that equipment wise, but I question whether someone who can’t practice often is going to be able to take advantage of the incremental difference the cartridge has to offer in the first place.

Second, I have literally never seen a box of 7 PRC ammo in a gun shop. Never. I realize I live in a bit of a backwater, and you can buy online from most places, but if your goal is to be a one gun hunter, having that one gun be limited to an uncommon factory offering, even if it might increase slightly in the future, would be a dealbreaker for me. If I have only one option, I want it to be something super standard. That could be points against the 7PRC, or it could be points for keeping your 3006 intact as a back up.

Copper at longer range seems to be anemic in a lot of cases with factory ammo. I’m sure a 7PRC would do fine, although I have yet to find a rifle that likes the hornady superformance stuff that you mentioned. I think some of the conventional wisdom on calibers goes out the window as soon as you stipulate copper. I did a bit of a rearrange of one of my rifles this past year specifically to shoot copper, and ended up with a regular old 270 Winchester. Factory-loaded Barnes LRX maintains 2200 ft./s to 520 yards at 7000 feet elevation, and in a pinch I have ammo options in nearly any mom and pop store in the country. All without having to go the custom or semi-custom gun route, so I could put my extra budget into a more reliable scope and plenty of practice ammo. Given your specific goals, were I in your shoes I might at least entertain the idea of getting an eight or nine-twist 270Win barrel spun onto my existing rifle. If you do go the 7PRC route, I’d personally want to keep the 3006 intact as a back up in case I have problems finding ammunition in the future.
Again, many respondents started coloring outside the lines of the perimeters set forth in my original question. The .270 with coppers sounds like a great idea but I did not want this to devolve into a cartridge debate. I am really just hoping for feedback on building a semi custom rifle on my existing Tikka action vs purchasing a new rifle in the $1800ish price range. Other than causing a potential build to need a larger bolt face, let’s forget I even mentioned 7PRC, it seems to divert people off the original path quicker than an In-N-Out with no line.
 

PNWGATOR

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If you’re set on a 7prc, you can turn you T3x 30.06 into one by having the bolt face opened up to a magnum face, new magazines, bolt stop and rebarreling. Put a vertical grip module on the factory stock and use it until the RokStock is available.
 

atmat

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If you’re set on a 7prc, you can turn you T3x 30.06 into one by having the bolt face opened up to a magnum face, new magazines magazines and rebarreling. Put a vertical grip module on the factory stock a d use it until the RokStock is available.
Alternatively, post a WTT for bolts in the classifieds. I’ve traded four bolts or so that way. But absolutely agree otherwise.
 

Gorp2007

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Again, many respondents started coloring outside the lines of the perimeters set forth in my original question. The .270 with coppers sounds like a great idea but I did not want this to devolve into a cartridge debate. I am really just hoping for feedback on building a semi custom rifle on my existing Tikka action vs purchasing a new rifle in the $1800ish price range. Other than causing a potential build to need a larger bolt face, let’s forget I even mentioned 7PRC, it seems to divert people off the original path quicker than an In-N-Out with no line.

The reason people are steering you away from the 7PRC is because it’s directly at odds with your stated goals of “easy accuracy,” monos, and not reloading. It’s a great cartridge, but there’s just not much in the way of factory ammo loaded with monos, so no matter what rifle you build it may not end up performing with your limited ammo options.

No matter which way you go it’s going to be a roll of the dice when it comes to performance. If it were me I’d buy a Tikka in 6.5 PRC then swap barrels. If the new barrel shots, you can flip the old one for a hundred bucks and make some money back. If it doesn’t, you can swap barrels back and see if you can find a 6.5 PRC factory load that it likes. Easy insurance for your 7 PRC gamble.

To build off your existing 30-06 you’ll need a new barrel, new mags, and have the bolt face opened up. You’ll save a little on the front end, but if it doesn’t like your factory ammo you’re looking at paying for custom reloads and now you don’t have your 30-06 as backup.
 
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