Blue Loctite Alternative??

[journeyman713]

For the guys who want to Buck the System by saving a few bucks using Paint, Nail polish, or any other Hillbilly shortcut you heard on the internet.

Who do you really think you are sticking it to, by using some kooky experiment on YOUR gun?

 

[2531usmc]

Wow… Form just can’t be wrong can you?? It’s a real bad look. Some guy whose only qualification is “I shoot a lot” versus industry experts with substantial experience on the subject. What a ******* wack-show.

Thank god there’s at least one mod on this site that isn’t going to rush in and fondle his balls.

That’s what makes these threads so entertaining

One one hand, we have industry experts with substantial experience on the subject. They present their argument in a clear factual manner. You can tell by their choice of words that they fully understand what they are talking about. On the other hand we have “I’ve killed hundreds of animals and shoot a million rounds a year so I know what works and no fact based logic will change my mind”.

Just like the Leupold scope drop test threads that were pretty much based on nonsensical arguments and it was an absolute hoot to follow.

 

[Coopsdaddy]

Seems the loctite has specs that most are not fallowing.I just bet if people fallows the instructions with a new product your failure rate would be minimal.
Do you
Leave first thread bear,than apply a 360 bead?
I never have,I just clean and probably over applied every time.

 

[MT_Wyatt]

For the guys who want to Buck the System by saving a few bucks using Paint, Nail polish, or any other Hillbilly shortcut you heard on the internet.

Who do you really think you are sticking it to, by using some kooky experiment on YOUR gun?

Paint is used at witness marks, is it not?

I don’t really care what people use, and I don’t think it’s a matter of sticking it to anyone. Nail polish has been a scope indicator for tube movement for a long time, well before hunting was discussed heavily on the internet. This isn’t some new idea being propagated all of a sudden, or an experiment.

Scope manufacturers can’t even agree on loctite on rings due to differences in torque values. After reading all the posts, it’s pretty clear people just want a simple, highly effective way to secure fasteners against movements. It isn’t money based. The gun is just a tool. There’s nothing to be gained by “calling out” those that aren’t 100% agreeing with you. Loctite, paint, whatever.

 

[ljalberta]

For the guys who want to Buck the System by saving a few bucks using Paint, Nail polish, or any other Hillbilly shortcut you heard on the internet.

Who do you really think you are sticking it to, by using some kooky experiment on YOUR gun?

In general, sticking it to the target we’re aiming at.

 

[T_Widdy]

Wow… Form just can’t be wrong can you?? It’s a real bad look. Some guy whose only qualification is “I shoot a lot” versus industry experts with substantial experience on the subject. What a ******* wack-show.

Thank god there’s at least one mod on this site that isn’t going to rush in and fondle his balls.

He’s actually not wrong he never said don’t use loctite. He shared his findings of a product that works better, and recommended you do your own testing. And I did and it works better.

For the guys who want to Buck the System by saving a few bucks using Paint, Nail polish, or any other Hillbilly shortcut you heard on the internet.

Who do you really think you are sticking it to, by using some kooky experiment on YOUR gun?

have you tested any different products to know it’s a hillbilly shortcut?

Is loctite 243 even correct for a SPLIT RING application?

 

[yeti12]

Is loctite 243 even correct for a SPLIT RING application?

Not unless your screws and threads are over 1/4" and are the same class of fit. So probably not China mass produced screws.

222 would be the correct one for most rifle parts. Just goes to show how misled the industry is.

 

[Macintosh]

Like many things, perfect is frequently the enemy of good. It sounds to me like the threadlocker itself for a rifle scope and attachments is actually pretty non-critical, ie any half-assed threadlocker-ish stuff that gets sort of dry and kinda holds things together will likely work **well** and provide improvement over no threadlocker…and that the more critical element where failure is most likely to happen for **most** people is in the expiration/fake product/exact application, etc of a product that is less forgiving of variance in those things. If this is even partly true it makes perfect sense to me that something as imprecise—but forgiving—as a paint pen could be **more** reliable under the typically un-exact selection, storage, age, application, etc of many shooters.

Regarding threadlocker not being recommended by manufacturers (someone brought this up a page or three ago) there was a recent thread on the topic—I contacted several scope ring manufacturers, all of whom said that it was fine to use a threadlocker and that the reason they dont recommend it was because customers complain after they get threadlocker on their stuff, ie it was a customer service issue not a functional recommendation in any way.

 

[T_Widdy]

Not unless your screws and threads are over 1/4" and are the same class of fit. So probably not China mass produced screws.

222 would be the correct one for most rifle parts. Just goes to show how misled the industry is.

Even if both threads were class 2 or 3 and of the correct dimensions, is any Anaerobic adhesive actually correct for a split ring design where there is an open gap on top and bottom the threads and no shoulder contact from the screw at the female thread?

 

[2531usmc]

Just out of curiosity, has anybody purchased rings or mounts lately? Did they have adequate instructions to install them? Wet or dry torque settings, recommendations to use or not use thread lockers?

After reading this thread, you would think they would just to reduce the variables

 

[BBob]

Even if both threads were class 2 or 3 and of the correct dimensions, is any Anaerobic adhesive actually correct for a split ring design where there is an open gap on top and bottom the threads and no shoulder contact from the screw at the female thread?

Say what? All that matters in that application is that the thread to thread interface would have Loctite properly applied. Why would we care about the gap between the ring halves or whatever shoulder contact you are talking about? If you want to lock down the screw head use the paint pen or nail polish.

 

[T_Widdy]

Say what? All that matters in that application is that the thread to thread interface would have Loctite properly applied. Why would we care about the gap between the ring halves or whatever shoulder contact you are talking about? If you want to lock down the screw head use the paint pen or nail polish.

I’m asking if that’s why anaerobic sealants don’t cure because there is air on the both sides of the female thread? The head is not bottomed out like tightening a screw into a blind hole.

 

[BBob]

I’m asking if that’s why anaerobic sealants don’t cure because there is air on the both sides of the female thread? The head is not bottomed out like tightening a screw into a blind hole.

No, in the restricted space within the threaded joint it will cure. In this application that you’re asking about I have not had issues with it curing.

 

[5811]

Like many things, perfect is frequently the enemy of good.

I think this is very appropriate here. Some might say there has been absolutely no failures with nail polish vs loctite, but I'm betting there's a massive discrepancy in sample size.

If everyone switched to paint pens, we'd find failures. It's guaranteed. Just look at tikkas, they were infallible not that long ago. Now that they are being used by more and more, and messed with more, FTF and NDs all over the forum.

 

[realunlucky]

Even if both threads were class 2 or 3 and of the correct dimensions, is any Anaerobic adhesive actually correct for a split ring design where there is an open gap on top and bottom the threads and no shoulder contact from the screw at the female thread?

I thought this maybe was the case but you'd think it would be more consistent like none of the screws cured or they all did.

I was mostly just curious why some have experienced such a high failure rate, as my goal is to avoid a variable as simple as a loose screw.

Sent from my SM-S926U using Tapatalk

 

[JF_Idaho]

So are all paint pens good or are there specific types to use or avoid?

 

[BCD]

So are all paint pens good or are there specific types to use or avoid?

Wondering the same. I'm assuming people are using oil based and not acrylic??

 

[TaperPin]

The thread locker manufacturers could give out more complete information, but it’s fun listening to arguments beating this little dead pony into a red mush. It cures in the presence of metal ions moving between two metal objects - simply depriving it of oxygen isn’t enough or the stuff would cure in the bottle. The “primer” has metal dust in it for surfaces that have anti corrosion coatings or otherwise don’t have metal ions to share. (Yes, it’s more correct to say it’s dissolved copper in solution, but “metal dust” seems easier for people to wrap their head around ) Oil cuts down on direct metal contact. Loosening a screw slightly and tightening a few times increases metal interaction. Like all chemical reactions, heat speeds up the process and a cold shop will slow it down. Using half as much means there are twice as many metal ions available to cure the stuff.

Here’s 6 (actually more like 10) year old blue - I put five drops down on a steel plate. Penny, utility blade and torx key were fixed in place in less than 15 minutes. A 5th drop not in the picture was sprinkled with aluminum shavings off a file - it hardened in about the same time. The drop underneath the plastic is still liquid an hour later.

If you’re curious if the stuff is still good it doesn’t take long to test.



Carry on.

 

[black dawg]

I’m asking if that’s why anaerobic sealants don’t cure because there is air on the both sides of the female thread? The head is not bottomed out like tightening a screw into a blind hole.

Just took a 5/16 bolt and nut, both new but not degreased, big drop of 242 on the end of the bolt, and turned the nut on until it was flush with the end of the bolt. Very loose fitting, and within 5 minutes, it was obiously starting to cure.

At about 45 minutes, cant turn it without tools.

 

[Megalodon]

No freaking wonder someone in this thread has issues with loctite curing.... jfc.