Blue Loctite Alternative??

It is not like a lubricant, it is a lubricant
And so is paint/polish. Don't know what that has to do with this, though

The point is, that if it is staying liquid inside the threads for whatever reason (excess applied, dimensional problems, etc), then that may be an unrecognized issue for some rings and bases coming loose when people thought they'd torqued them down properly.
 
Why is it that the rokslide approved UM scope rings ship with blue thread locker?

Why did it take them so long to have the real torque specs for those rings online?

And being that you used UM as an example- pull apart one of their Tikka builds from the last few months and see what they’re using for some of the screws.
 
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Do you really think there’s enough heat in a ring screw to not use 222?
Maybe on a fully auto machine gun.
This is a serious question,if 222 is for the smaller hardware is that not what should be used.
There is specs and instructions for a reason.
Is this the age old problem of not reading instructions and doing what you think is better.
Similar to 20 inch pound torque spec but 15 or 25 is better in my opinion.
 
The barreled action I picked up from UM last week, had red paint on the trigger housing bolt. And a tube of Vibra-Tite in the UM ring box. Never heard of it before.
I have been using red loctite on threads and black fingernail polish on screw heads for 10+ years with no issues. But I tried the paint pen a few months ago and that is all I'm using now. It's easy to use, visible, cheap, and it works. All I really care about is stuff that works.
 
Question still remains of how can thread lockers work in every other industrial application yet fail at such a high rate in firearms applications?
They have failed in industrial applications, ive seen it. They have worked for firearm applications.

It doesn't have a 100% success rate or a 100% failure rate like everyone is arguing about.

We should probably just go with what has the highest success with the lowest amount of prep.
 
They have failed in industrial applications, ive seen it. They have worked for firearm applications.

It doesn't have a 100% success rate or a 100% failure rate like everyone is arguing about.

We should probably just go with what has the highest success with the lowest amount of prep.
I would think you would want to go with what has the highest success. Certainly, for the hunt of a lifetime.

And clearly, use of the engineered application is optimal assuming you take the time to read the instructions and follow them.

I know, for me, this thread has been extremely informative and I will never use loctight in the future the way I used it in the past.
 
I would think you would want to go with what has the highest success. Certainly, for the hunt of a lifetime.

And clearly, use of the engineered application is optimal assuming you take the time to read the instructions and follow them.

I know, for me, this thread has been extremely informative and I will never use loctight in the future the way I used it in the past.
What i meant with highest success and lowest prep is, If product A required 12 steps to do properly and outperformed a paint pen by 3%... Then the chances of someone messing up one of those 12 steps and causing a failure would lead to a higher failure rate than just degrease and apply paint.
 
This is a serious question,if 222 is for the smaller hardware is that not what should be used.
There is specs and instructions for a reason.
Is this the age old problem of not reading instructions and doing what you think is better.
Similar to 20 inch pound torque spec but 15 or 25 is better in my opinion.
The 222 recommendation for small screws (#6, #8, 4mm, 5mm) is a safe generalization, and will work fine, especially for low grade screws. For the same size screw in a high grade, you could step it up to 243 if needed, and will be fine also.

For torque of these screws, there are a couple variables that will change the safe torque amount.
1. Grade of the screw
2. Is the screw Wet or Dry

For the Grade, always go by what the manufacturer (who sent the screw) says. They know what torque setting their screws can handle. Pay attention to the wet or dry torque values.

For Wet or Dry, (oil, never-seize, or Loctite, are wet) this has to do with the amount of friction of the screw, as you tighten it. A screw with a dry torque setting of 20in. lbs., will be much less if it is wet, or it will exceed the rating of the screw.
 
Use what you personally have positive experience with, if it works for you, thats what you need. It wouldnt matter if its Loctite, paint pen, nail polish, Elmers glue, dried snot, or anything else, if it works, it works. The thing people dont do much these days is test things for themselves, they listen to too dam many self proclaimed experts. Years ago thats what we all did, we worked on it and made a decision. We are talking base and ring screws here for the most part, not the jesus nut on a helicopter.



I have used a whole lot of Loctite products over the last 35 years with success. Some of it was in the tool cabinets on my truck in 108 degree summers and in it during freezing weather as well, no failures. I have had it ruin if it was old, you kind of know it is bad if you have used it enough. Retaining bearing races and sleeves with green, locking threads with blue and red were a daily thing. This is all on heavy earth moving, mining, and oilfield equipment here in the US, UAE, Algeria, North Sea, Mexico and Russia. Large bolts are no issue, smaller bolts and screws need care to not over apply. We use 4-40 screws a lot in our electronic panels to hold circuit boards and other items. They are subjected to impact, high and low frequency vibration, and other forces that will rattle things apart, Loctite has always worked, using nothing has never worked here. I cant imagine the recoil on a rifle is any worse.

When it comes to rifles, I have used Loctite and nail polish, and have had success with both, as well as using nothing at all, I have never tried a paint pen. I use good torque instruments,( not the cheap 60.00 trash), we can calibrate them daily if we wish. Torque is of the most importance, and like shooting, there is a feel to it, and you have to drive the instrument properly. Installing a fastener is a process, although it is a simple one in most cases, it is still process with all steps needing to be done properly. Thats where I believe most have failures, the devil is in the details.

Rambling is over now!😂
 
Only ever used loctite on one scope and to get them off to put on a new scope I had to take the gun to a gunsmith! That's when I found out not to use red locktite! fact is after that I have never used locktite at all and no problems!
 
Question about paint pens to those that have used them. Are you applying to entire surface of screw threads, bottom half, just a line etc…? Also using same pen as witness mark for top? Interesting topic, looking to try something different. Thanks
 
I’m sure that the loctite is totally effective when applied in the exact right amount, stored at the proper temp, and within the expiration date. But it seems far more finicky than the paint pen. So I will just use the dummy proof thing because I’m dumb and like things to be easy
 
Wow… Form just can’t be wrong can you?? It’s a real bad look. Some guy whose only qualification is “I shoot a lot” versus industry experts with substantial experience on the subject. What a ******* wack-show.

Thank god there’s at least one mod on this site that isn’t going to rush in and fondle his balls.
 
What i meant with highest success and lowest prep is, If product A required 12 steps to do properly and outperformed a paint pen by 3%... Then the chances of someone messing up one of those 12 steps and causing a failure would lead to a higher failure rate than just degrease and apply paint.
Which is probably why industry universally uses paint pens and shuns loctite products, right?
 
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