6.5 Creedmoor/260 for Deer, Elk, and whatever else.....

mt100gr.

WKR
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Elk, 6.5 cm 143gr ELD-X, 637 yards, 1,854fps impact.


Entrance through “shoulder” (scapula”
View attachment 501100


Scapula removed. Big hole on right is bullet, little hole on left is fragment or bone.
View attachment 501101

View attachment 501102


Lungs-
View attachment 501136



Exit, offside ribs-

View attachment 501143


View attachment 501146




Gotta watch them elk “shoulders”….
I was just about to ask if you really meant to type "through" the shoulders on those, until I saw your last line. 🤪
 

TexasHTR

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@Formidilosus what scalpel are you using? Are those havalon blades?
You can get them on Amazon for less than $10. Get the #8 scalpel handle. The also come in an all stainless variety. They will fit inside the plastic Havalon blade case as well, but I usually just rubber band a few extra blades in their foil packs to the handle and throw in my kill kit.
 
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You can get them on Amazon for less than $10. Get the #8 scalpel handle. The also come in an all stainless variety. They will fit inside the plastic Havalon blade case as well, but I usually just rubber band a few extra blades in their foil packs to the handle and throw in my kill kit.

Also $4 direct from Havalon. That's a No. 6 in Form's hand.
 
Last edited:
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woods89

woods89

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Between this one and the .223 thread you would think it would kill the fuddlore that elk shoulders are bulletproof…..but it lives on.
And the old "elk can go miles when perfectly hit"...........

I need to see this animal that can go miles with the top of the heart gone and a big hole through both lungs.....
 

Dobermann

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Havalon blades, no idea what the brand of handle is.
And here I was thinking that everyone wanted to know what this old thing is ...

1673856232310.png

Next you'll be telling us to wear ventile cotton for raincoats, wool for jackets, and fishnets for baselayers ... oh, wait ...

But seriously, what is that? Just a plain old no-name maker Pukko, or the secret-squirrel Aclima/Sarma TST/ventile of hunting knives that we've all been missing?
 

rackcity24

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north dakota
And here I was thinking that everyone wanted to know what this old thing is ...

View attachment 502109

Next you'll be telling us to wear ventile cotton for raincoats, wool for jackets, and fishnets for baselayers ... oh, wait ...

But seriously, what is that? Just a plain old no-name maker Pukko, or the secret-squirrel Aclima/Sarma TST/ventile of hunting knives that we've all been missing?
I think its a morakniv steak knife but I could be wrong

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
 

Formidilosus

Super Moderator
Shoot2HuntU
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Oct 22, 2014
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And here I was thinking that everyone wanted to know what this old thing is ...

View attachment 502109

Next you'll be telling us to wear ventile cotton for raincoats, wool for jackets, and fishnets for baselayers ... oh, wait ...

But seriously, what is that? Just a plain old no-name maker Pukko, or the secret-squirrel Aclima/Sarma TST/ventile of hunting knives that we've all been missing?

Morakniv no 1.
 

Dobermann

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Morakniv no 1.
Intrigued:

Does this fit with the "it's European, has a proven track record, and it works" orientation, such as the Tikka ...

Or is it more "it's wood and carbon steel and fits with my nostalgia for old Winchesters ..."?

:)

In all seriousness, do you use it because you like it and/or sentimental reasons - or is there some strong practical use-case that we're missing with the switch to synthetic handles, stainless steel, dedicated hunting designs (however that's conceived of), and so on ...
 
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Feb 28, 2017
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I was out a couple weeks back with 6.5 Swede using 140ELD-M on fallow cull hunt. I culled four deer, including a a good sized hind solidly hit at 250m quartering away. She ran off about 75m and tipped over, but came close to tumbling down a steep hill/ravine. Exit wound was not very big, but lungs/liver were shredded.

My experience so far with the 6.5 has been just mediocre. Nothing spectacular about it and you really want solid hits with no room for error. The 6.5 does not put deer down like a .270 or 30-06. However recoil is light so you can be more accurate. Wind deflection is much better than .30 cals once you shoot distance. I need more time with this calibre, but this is my initial impression. If I was on an important big game hunt I'd take my 30-06 or 270 at this stage.

My mate on the other hand has shot a lot of deer with his .260 with 123s at higher velocity and has much faster knockdowns than I had. He uses that rifle for guided clients now for the low recoil.

Another mate that has shot thousands of heads of game just thinks the 6.5s are also so-so. They work fine, but you need to really make sure you have a good shot as margin for error is a lot smaller than larger calibres.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Feb 28, 2017
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NZ
Re: knives.

Simple moras are great. Guides here will use just a simple cheap Victorinox boning knife. I tend to use a Mercator folder which is a bit of a classic knife used in NZ by cullers in the past. Good steel with solid lockup. Lightweight. You can carry two for the weight of a standard hunting knife so you always have a spare.

 

Formidilosus

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Shoot2HuntU
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Oct 22, 2014
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Intrigued:

Does this fit with the "it's European, has a proven track record, and it works" orientation, such as the Tikka ...

Or is it more "it's wood and carbon steel and fits with my nostalgia for old Winchesters ..."?

:)


Yes? Haha.



In all seriousness, do you use it because you like it and/or sentimental reasons - or is there some strong practical use-case that we're missing with the switch to synthetic handles, stainless steel, dedicated hunting designs (however that's conceived of), and so on ...


I tend to use Scandinavian/Finnish knives as in general they have a much more practical and functional aspect to them versus most US or other designed knives. The NA market is way over saturated with marketing and looks, and way less on actual use.

The Mora specifically, but other knives of the ilk as well, use good steel that holds on edge and is easily resharpened in the field, the blade shapes are appropriate for general use and skinning, the handles are way better designed for various uses than most other knives- rounded/smooth usually without finger grooves; their overall size is good, and the cost is appropriate.
Most custom knives with super steel absolutely suck as functional tools. Blade shape is terrible for use, the steel can’t be field resharpened, the handle design feels good only in one grip, they are silly expensive, etc, etc.
 

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