What do you do with all these deer and elk?!?!
6.5 Creedmoor/260 for Deer, Elk, and whatever else.....
- Thread starter woods89
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Elk, 6.5 cm 143gr ELD-X, 637 yards, 1,854fps impact.
Entrance through “shoulder” (scapula”
Scapula removed. Big hole on right is bullet, little hole on left is fragment or bone.
Lungs-
Exit, offside ribs-
Gotta watch them elk “shoulders”….
Entrance through “shoulder” (scapula”
Scapula removed. Big hole on right is bullet, little hole on left is fragment or bone.
Lungs-
Exit, offside ribs-
Gotta watch them elk “shoulders”….
I was just about to ask if you really meant to type "through" the shoulders on those, until I saw your last line.
@Formidilosus what scalpel are you using? Are those havalon blades?
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Havalon blades, no idea what the brand of handle is.
sickles107
WKR
Replaceable blade skinning knives and hunting knives by Havalon Knives. #8P Economy Plastic Scalpel Handle
Lightweight plastic scalpel handle with a comfort grip. Fits our #60XT and #22XT blades.
www.havalon.com
You can get them on Amazon for less than $10. Get the #8 scalpel handle. The also come in an all stainless variety. They will fit inside the plastic Havalon blade case as well, but I usually just rubber band a few extra blades in their foil packs to the handle and throw in my kill kit.
Mike Islander
WKR
Also $4 direct from Havalon. That's a No. 6 in Form's hand.
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RyanT26
WKR
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Between this one and the .223 thread you would think it would kill the fuddlore that elk shoulders are bulletproof…..but it lives on.
Mike Islander
WKR
Might take some time...or forever. Same skepticism on sites filled with pro hunters and pro gunslingers.
- Thread Starter
- #271
OP
woods89
WKR
And the old "elk can go miles when perfectly hit"...........
I need to see this animal that can go miles with the top of the heart gone and a big hole through both lungs.....
And here I was thinking that everyone wanted to know what this old thing is ...
Next you'll be telling us to wear ventile cotton for raincoats, wool for jackets, and fishnets for baselayers ... oh, wait ...
But seriously, what is that? Just a plain old no-name maker Pukko, or the secret-squirrel Aclima/Sarma TST/ventile of hunting knives that we've all been missing?
rackcity24
Lil-Rokslider
I think its a morakniv steak knife but I could be wrong
Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
Mike Islander
WKR
Sure looks like a Mora Steak Knife Classic.
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- Oct 22, 2014
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Morakniv no 1.
Intrigued:
Does this fit with the "it's European, has a proven track record, and it works" orientation, such as the Tikka ...
Or is it more "it's wood and carbon steel and fits with my nostalgia for old Winchesters ..."?
In all seriousness, do you use it because you like it and/or sentimental reasons - or is there some strong practical use-case that we're missing with the switch to synthetic handles, stainless steel, dedicated hunting designs (however that's conceived of), and so on ...
Southern Lights
Lil-Rokslider
I was out a couple weeks back with 6.5 Swede using 140ELD-M on fallow cull hunt. I culled four deer, including a a good sized hind solidly hit at 250m quartering away. She ran off about 75m and tipped over, but came close to tumbling down a steep hill/ravine. Exit wound was not very big, but lungs/liver were shredded.
My experience so far with the 6.5 has been just mediocre. Nothing spectacular about it and you really want solid hits with no room for error. The 6.5 does not put deer down like a .270 or 30-06. However recoil is light so you can be more accurate. Wind deflection is much better than .30 cals once you shoot distance. I need more time with this calibre, but this is my initial impression. If I was on an important big game hunt I'd take my 30-06 or 270 at this stage.
My mate on the other hand has shot a lot of deer with his .260 with 123s at higher velocity and has much faster knockdowns than I had. He uses that rifle for guided clients now for the low recoil.
Another mate that has shot thousands of heads of game just thinks the 6.5s are also so-so. They work fine, but you need to really make sure you have a good shot as margin for error is a lot smaller than larger calibres.
My experience so far with the 6.5 has been just mediocre. Nothing spectacular about it and you really want solid hits with no room for error. The 6.5 does not put deer down like a .270 or 30-06. However recoil is light so you can be more accurate. Wind deflection is much better than .30 cals once you shoot distance. I need more time with this calibre, but this is my initial impression. If I was on an important big game hunt I'd take my 30-06 or 270 at this stage.
My mate on the other hand has shot a lot of deer with his .260 with 123s at higher velocity and has much faster knockdowns than I had. He uses that rifle for guided clients now for the low recoil.
Another mate that has shot thousands of heads of game just thinks the 6.5s are also so-so. They work fine, but you need to really make sure you have a good shot as margin for error is a lot smaller than larger calibres.
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Southern Lights
Lil-Rokslider
Re: knives.
Simple moras are great. Guides here will use just a simple cheap Victorinox boning knife. I tend to use a Mercator folder which is a bit of a classic knife used in NZ by cullers in the past. Good steel with solid lockup. Lightweight. You can carry two for the weight of a standard hunting knife so you always have a spare.
Simple moras are great. Guides here will use just a simple cheap Victorinox boning knife. I tend to use a Mercator folder which is a bit of a classic knife used in NZ by cullers in the past. Good steel with solid lockup. Lightweight. You can carry two for the weight of a standard hunting knife so you always have a spare.
Mercator Carbon Red
www.knifeguy.co.nz
stealthgoat
FNG
- Joined
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Intrigued:
Does this fit with the "it's European, has a proven track record, and it works" orientation, such as the Tikka ...
Or is it more "it's wood and carbon steel and fits with my nostalgia for old Winchesters ..."?
Yes? Haha.
I tend to use Scandinavian/Finnish knives as in general they have a much more practical and functional aspect to them versus most US or other designed knives. The NA market is way over saturated with marketing and looks, and way less on actual use.
The Mora specifically, but other knives of the ilk as well, use good steel that holds on edge and is easily resharpened in the field, the blade shapes are appropriate for general use and skinning, the handles are way better designed for various uses than most other knives- rounded/smooth usually without finger grooves; their overall size is good, and the cost is appropriate.
Most custom knives with super steel absolutely suck as functional tools. Blade shape is terrible for use, the steel can’t be field resharpened, the handle design feels good only in one grip, they are silly expensive, etc, etc.
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