It's like having two girlfriends - one has better pancakes, the other has better play, and I don't want to give up either.
Would love to hear more about this! ^
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It's like having two girlfriends - one has better pancakes, the other has better play, and I don't want to give up either.
I got you.Ok I must be too stupid for a 1911...
Got my Kimber apart to swap the grip and trigger. Per the Red Dirt video I need to put the gun together minus the safeties to test and adjust pre travel...





I got you.
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And to check if you’ve added too much pre-travel (missing the half cock) the hammer needs to be under spring tension with the mainspring inserted. With the red dirt triggers you are turning a screw that is physically pushing the trigger to the rear. Push too far and the sear will be under constant tension. Keep pushing and the hammer will drop at the slightest bump.
-you can see how dangerous this can be if too much pre-travel is added.
Give yourself a small amount of trigger take up before hitting the wall. You don’t want the sear to be under constant tension from the trigger. This gives the sear enough clearance off the disconector for it to function safely.
Then be sure to go through the safety checks.
Engineer Armory has a great video about how to make sure your sear, disconnector, safety, and hammer are all functioning safely.

Folks, copies of Stanford's book are still available secondhand if anyone is interested - ABE has a few: https://www.abebooks.com/servlet/Se...=search_f_hp&sts=t&tn=surgical speed shootingHaha. SSS was actually the first pistol class I took. And he said my 1911 was the first he had ever seen make it through a week long class without a malfunction- actually had several G19’s malfunction in the class, including his. Hahaha.
I’ve taken a lot of classes, and was already a decent competitor when I took it, but Surgical Speed Shooting is probably still the overall most impactful pistol course I have taken.
Yeah, I think he did in a video he and Joel posted sometime in just the last month or so ... it wasn't so much an issue with manual safeties as it was with people using very light competition triggers and coming onto the trigger too early, whether 'prepping' or just inserting trigger finger into the guard at a point when it's not as likely to be an issue on a heavier and/or DA trigger.Ben Stoeger has said that he has seen more AD/NDs with single action-manual safety equipped guns than any other type.
What do you think drives that?
I imagine he is around more people using pretty light triggers and other modifications.
There may be a context of someone that is not super confident swiping the safety off early, like in or near the holster, combined with “prepping” a light trigger, easily resulting in a discharge into the ground in front of the shooter. But he has not really elaborated to say that’s the case.
@fwafwow and I can help you with that ...Used CS at the local Scheels. Wish I was in the market at the moment
Another question comparing CZ ergos and geometry to 1911. The CZs in general appear to have a noticeably lower bore axis, relative to the top of the grip beavertail. They also generally have a more undercut trigger guard. Seems like this would all help get a higher grip more in line with the recoil path (like a Rokstock). Assuming you had two platforms with same weight, length, ammo, no ports/comps, etc, would this not result in a flatter shooting gun? Or are there other details in the geometry that more than make up for this difference?The 1911 grip is better. The DWX should have been a 1911 grip and CZ slide, instead of the other way around. However, as stated the DWX compact would be about third or fourth on my list. Proper 1911, Staccato C or CS, good 2011, and then maybe tied between Staccato HD and DWX.
Another question comparing CZ ergos and geometry to 1911. The CZs in general appear to have a noticeably lower bore axis, relative to the top of the grip beavertail. They also generally have a more undercut trigger guard. Seems like this would all help get a higher grip more in line with the recoil path (like a Rokstock). Assuming you had two platforms with same weight, length, ammo, no ports/comps, etc, would this not result in a flatter shooting gun? Or are there other details in the geometry that more than make up for this difference?
Also, the grip angles look almost identical between CZ and 1911s.
I'm not form but I have a gen 6 45 and have had gen 3-5 glocks, IMO, they are better yes... texture alone is worth the upgrade... having small hands, the slightly reduced trigger reach is also beneficial.Form, have you tried the Gen 6 Glocks?
Wondering if they are as good/better than the Gen 5’s.
Form, have you tried the Gen 6 Glocks?
Wondering if they are as good/better than the Gen 5’s.
Another question comparing CZ ergos and geometry to 1911. The CZs in general appear to have a noticeably lower bore axis, relative to the top of the grip beavertail. They also generally have a more undercut trigger guard. Seems like this would all help get a higher grip more in line with the recoil path (like a Rokstock). Assuming you had two platforms with same weight, length, ammo, no ports/comps, etc, would this not result in a flatter shooting gun?
Or are there other details in the geometry that more than make up for this difference?
Also, the grip angles look almost identical between CZ and 1911s.
For examples, for me right now:
Glock 19 or 17, Gen 3/4= 16 yards.
G19 or 17 gen 5 or M models= 25 yards.
Sig M18/17= 22-24 yards.
Tricked out Sig M18/17= 26-27 yards.
Staccato P= 32’ish yards
Springfield Pro/custom 1911 9mm that I’m currently carrying= 40+ yards.
I'm not sure I understand what this means ... but then, I'm not sure that I want to know, either ...When I touch thumb-tip to finger tips, I have less empty space than some girls I've dated, even though my hands are comparatively enormous to theirs.
They're almost like a Forgotten Weapons thing at this point, given how they've almost entirely vanished from these kinds of conversations, but where do Browning Hi-Powers stack up in all of this for you?