1911’s in general, 9mm versions specifically

Ok I must be too stupid for a 1911...

Got my Kimber apart to swap the grip and trigger. Per the Red Dirt video I need to put the gun together minus the safeties to test and adjust pre travel...
I got you.
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And to check if you’ve added too much pre-travel (missing the half cock) the hammer needs to be under spring tension with the mainspring inserted. With the red dirt triggers you are turning a screw that is physically pushing the trigger to the rear. Push too far and the sear will be under constant tension. Keep pushing and the hammer will drop at the slightest bump.
-you can see how dangerous this can be if too much pre-travel is added.

Give yourself a small amount of trigger take up before hitting the wall. You don’t want the sear to be under constant tension from the trigger. This gives the sear enough clearance off the disconector for it to function safely.

Then be sure to go through the safety checks.
Engineer Armory has a great video about how to make sure your sear, disconnector, safety, and hammer are all functioning safely.
 
I got you.
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And to check if you’ve added too much pre-travel (missing the half cock) the hammer needs to be under spring tension with the mainspring inserted. With the red dirt triggers you are turning a screw that is physically pushing the trigger to the rear. Push too far and the sear will be under constant tension. Keep pushing and the hammer will drop at the slightest bump.
-you can see how dangerous this can be if too much pre-travel is added.

Give yourself a small amount of trigger take up before hitting the wall. You don’t want the sear to be under constant tension from the trigger. This gives the sear enough clearance off the disconector for it to function safely.

Then be sure to go through the safety checks.
Engineer Armory has a great video about how to make sure your sear, disconnector, safety, and hammer are all functioning safely.

I got it to half cock and cock. Then lost it

Let me try again with your adult supervision



Thanks!!!!
 
Ok, so my pre travel adjustment screw has been screwed so far forward that when I went to pull the trigger and double check it the screw fell.

Took a replacement screw started it, put the works back together and she's working now.

Ha thanks
 
Got the gun together then checked how I did. Trigger was stupid sponges and crawled to reset.

Back to 1911 parts on my bench.

Set screw on my Red Dirt is set so the head is flush to the bow, then backed off a half a turn.

But I must have something else going because the trigger barely wants to return to cocked position. It slowly crawls back to 0.

Tons of take up.

I thought a p365 trigger was bad... ha

Bed time. Try again tomorrow.
 
Haha. SSS was actually the first pistol class I took. And he said my 1911 was the first he had ever seen make it through a week long class without a malfunction- actually had several G19’s malfunction in the class, including his. Hahaha.

I’ve taken a lot of classes, and was already a decent competitor when I took it, but Surgical Speed Shooting is probably still the overall most impactful pistol course I have taken.
Folks, copies of Stanford's book are still available secondhand if anyone is interested - ABE has a few: https://www.abebooks.com/servlet/Se...=search_f_hp&sts=t&tn=surgical speed shooting

He also did a couple of videos for the now-defnct Paladin Press, that might still be available here and there ...
 
Ben Stoeger has said that he has seen more AD/NDs with single action-manual safety equipped guns than any other type.

What do you think drives that?

I imagine he is around more people using pretty light triggers and other modifications.

There may be a context of someone that is not super confident swiping the safety off early, like in or near the holster, combined with “prepping” a light trigger, easily resulting in a discharge into the ground in front of the shooter. But he has not really elaborated to say that’s the case.
Yeah, I think he did in a video he and Joel posted sometime in just the last month or so ... it wasn't so much an issue with manual safeties as it was with people using very light competition triggers and coming onto the trigger too early, whether 'prepping' or just inserting trigger finger into the guard at a point when it's not as likely to be an issue on a heavier and/or DA trigger.
 
I'll just throw in my 2 cents. I've got one 9mm 1911 - Sig Stainless Traditional. One of my favorite pistols! Haven't had any issues with feeding/ejecting. I mostly shoot my reloads - 115gr plated round nose over 4.2gr Titegroup. I've also loaded up jacketed, hard cast lead and powder coated bullets. All shoot great! The hard cast was messy. I've pretty much left it stock. I did get Sig target grips for it. That's all I've done to it.
 
The 1911 grip is better. The DWX should have been a 1911 grip and CZ slide, instead of the other way around. However, as stated the DWX compact would be about third or fourth on my list. Proper 1911, Staccato C or CS, good 2011, and then maybe tied between Staccato HD and DWX.
Another question comparing CZ ergos and geometry to 1911. The CZs in general appear to have a noticeably lower bore axis, relative to the top of the grip beavertail. They also generally have a more undercut trigger guard. Seems like this would all help get a higher grip more in line with the recoil path (like a Rokstock). Assuming you had two platforms with same weight, length, ammo, no ports/comps, etc, would this not result in a flatter shooting gun? Or are there other details in the geometry that more than make up for this difference?

Also, the grip angles look almost identical between CZ and 1911s.
 
Another question comparing CZ ergos and geometry to 1911. The CZs in general appear to have a noticeably lower bore axis, relative to the top of the grip beavertail. They also generally have a more undercut trigger guard. Seems like this would all help get a higher grip more in line with the recoil path (like a Rokstock). Assuming you had two platforms with same weight, length, ammo, no ports/comps, etc, would this not result in a flatter shooting gun? Or are there other details in the geometry that more than make up for this difference?

Also, the grip angles look almost identical between CZ and 1911s.

I don't personally have a lot of experience with low bore-axis handguns, but like a lot of things in the gun world, I suspect it's something that can make some difference, but nowhere near as much of a difference as some in the gun-internet world might try to make it out to be. It might make it a little more pleasant to shoot, or it might make a meaningful difference to a truly elite shooter, but in general is more marginal than so many other things, like grip and trigger control.
 
Another question comparing CZ ergos and geometry to 1911. The CZs in general appear to have a noticeably lower bore axis, relative to the top of the grip beavertail. They also generally have a more undercut trigger guard. Seems like this would all help get a higher grip more in line with the recoil path (like a Rokstock). Assuming you had two platforms with same weight, length, ammo, no ports/comps, etc, would this not result in a flatter shooting gun?

Yes.



Or are there other details in the geometry that more than make up for this difference?

Other geometries matter too- sometimes/often more.


Also, the grip angles look almost identical between CZ and 1911s.

It’s not necessarily- or mostly the angle. It is the angle, width, length, thickness, depth/thickness, and overall shape.

CZ Shadows are excellent shooting pistols. When it comes to forgiveness in a comprised grip, torque, bad trigger press, etc; the 1911 is still better.
 
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Got her!!!!

Had to buy a set of files and take a little off the back tabs of my trigger bow.

Y'all weren't joking about having to file stuff.
 
For examples, for me right now:

Glock 19 or 17, Gen 3/4= 16 yards.

G19 or 17 gen 5 or M models= 25 yards.

Sig M18/17= 22-24 yards.

Tricked out Sig M18/17= 26-27 yards.

Staccato P= 32’ish yards

Springfield Pro/custom 1911 9mm that I’m currently carrying= 40+ yards.


They're almost like a Forgotten Weapons thing at this point, given how they've almost entirely vanished from these kinds of conversations, but where do Browning Hi-Powers stack up in all of this for you?
 
They're almost like a Forgotten Weapons thing at this point, given how they've almost entirely vanished from these kinds of conversations, but where do Browning Hi-Powers stack up in all of this for you?

Hi-Powers don’t do well with heavy usage historically. The Novak built ones that places used in the 90’s were basically done at 30’ish thousand rounds. MAs for shootability- they’re good when they were built up.
 
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