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- Oct 22, 2014
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would this be grip safety disengagement at 50% travel for carry/field guns?
No. Immediate disengagement- as in the very first movement at all of the GS, it disengages. Think .01” movement.
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would this be grip safety disengagement at 50% travel for carry/field guns?
The grip circumference is large enough that a 90 degree trigger press while riding the safety on a 2011 causes the top web of my hand to not put enough pressure where the grip safety disengages. It seems to be an interplay between the angle a disengaged safety holds my thumb, the location the grip safety disengages, and the size of my hand.Why is that?
The grip circumference is large enough that a 90 degree trigger press while riding the safety on a 2011 causes the top web of my hand to not put enough pressure where the grip safety disengages. It seems to be an interplay between the angle a disengaged safety holds my thumb, the location the grip safety disengages, and the size of my hand.
If the grip safety on my staccato disengaged with pressure closer to the top of the beaver tail, this wouldn’t be an issue. It disengages lower down. So my grip (right handed in this case) puts pressure along the right side of the gun, and the web of my hand is putting pressure into the beaver tail grip junction. The angle of keeping my right thumb on the safety causes the web of my hand to not put enough pressure where the grip safety is designed to disengage.
I have never experienced this issue on 1911s.
Changing the stock trigger to a short Atlas also allowed me to press the 2011 trigger with a lot more of my finger without compromising grip. Before that change, I would have to grip the gun differently than every other pistol.
It bears repeating that I have small hands, and a 2011 is the beefiest pistol I shoot.
ETA, coincidentally that post was exactly a year ago. ha
Have you seen many (or any) ADs, NDs, at a significantly different rate between action types?
It’s just that we’ve grown to except it. Now you’ve got people carrying and using pistols with sub 5lb, short or no take up triggers, with no safety- and then wondering why guns are going “bang” when they shouldn’t.
Admittedly it’s a big boy. X300v, Acro, safariland ALS. Just based on that, you can imagine what it is used for and in daylight/nighttime use.Ohhh. 2011. Yeah man, tape may be the only answer in that case. A Staccato C or CS should work for you too.
Admittedly it’s a big boy. X300v, Acro, safariland ALS. Just based on that, you can imagine what it is used for and in daylight/nighttime use.
Edit: let me contribute to this thread in a productive way. That specific staccato and several atlas magazines has over 8,000 124gr and 2,000 147 gr through it with zero malfunctions.
The grip circumference is large enough that a 90 degree trigger press while riding the safety on a 2011 causes the top web of my hand to not put enough pressure where the grip safety disengages. It seems to be an interplay between the angle a disengaged safety holds my thumb, the location the grip safety disengages, and the size of my hand.
If the grip safety on my staccato disengaged with pressure closer to the top of the beaver tail, this wouldn’t be an issue. It disengages lower down. So my grip (right handed in this case) puts pressure along the right side of the gun, and the web of my hand is putting pressure into the beaver tail grip junction. The angle of keeping my right thumb on the safety causes the web of my hand to not put enough pressure where the grip safety is designed to disengage.
I have never experienced this issue on 1911s.
Changing the stock trigger to a short Atlas also allowed me to press the 2011 trigger with a lot more of my finger without compromising grip. Before that change, I would have to grip the gun differently than every other pistol.
It bears repeating that I have small hands, and a 2011 is the beefiest pistol I shoot.
I do love CZ 75 ergos. But this has kind of a weird trigger in there right? Not 1911, not CZ?Dan Wesson DWX Compact.
I do love CZ 75 ergos. But this has kind of a weird trigger in there right? Not 1911, not CZ?
Oof, this conversation is taking an expensive turn...It actually uses 1911 internals - hammer, sear, disconnector, sear spring are all 1911. The trigger itself is physically unique, as the bow is wrapping around CZ75 mags, but it's functionally a 1911 trigger.
Oof, this conversation is taking an expensive turn...
@Formidilosus, any strong opinions on CZ vs 2011/1911 ergos? I'm assuming you're firmly in the camp that the single stack 1911 is the king for speed accuracy?
The 1911 grip is better. The DWX should have been a 1911 grip and CZ slide, instead of the other way around. However, as stated the DWX compact would be about third or fourth on my list. Proper 1911, Staccato C or CS, good 2011, and then maybe tied between Staccato HD and DWX.
However, around 2011 or 2012 I changed how those I was around thought and trained with guns and I haven’t seen one with people I’m around since then.







It's like having two girlfriends - one has better pancakes, the other has better play, and I don't want to give up either.
I got you.Ok I must be too stupid for a 1911...
Got my Kimber apart to swap the grip and trigger. Per the Red Dirt video I need to put the gun together minus the safeties to test and adjust pre travel...





I got you.
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And to check if you’ve added too much pre-travel (missing the half cock) the hammer needs to be under spring tension with the mainspring inserted. With the red dirt triggers you are turning a screw that is physically pushing the trigger to the rear. Push too far and the sear will be under constant tension. Keep pushing and the hammer will drop at the slightest bump.
-you can see how dangerous this can be if too much pre-travel is added.
Give yourself a small amount of trigger take up before hitting the wall. You don’t want the sear to be under constant tension from the trigger. This gives the sear enough clearance off the disconector for it to function safely.
Then be sure to go through the safety checks.
Engineer Armory has a great video about how to make sure your sear, disconnector, safety, and hammer are all functioning safely.