Would you buy this scope?

If it’s around the 1000 dollar point absolutely I’ll take 3. If it’s 2500 I’ll pass and keep my tenmile

I’d buy 2 at the $1000 mark. $1500 is a little harder to swallow at 50% increase

I would also be in at around the $1000 price point so I could buy 2 or 3 to start.

Would be interested in several at $1000 or under....

I’d buy this in a heartbeat, half of a heartbeat if price is closer to $1000.

As described by Ryan, yes, I would buy one.

At $1500, no, probably not. I would have to wait for a sale or used. Under $1000, yea, I would buy one.

Presale at $800, I might buy two.

4-12 or 4-16 preferred.

Dialing capability past 600 preferred.

Looked over most responses on all 10 pages, I may be the minority but after buying a SWFA, Trijicon and Razor (model not tested by Form). I 100% want “good glass”. The glass in the SWFA was so inferior and at 100 yards the heat waves on the bench was horrible causing a shift in group size.

I don’t care what Form says- there are situations and hunts where good clear usable glass is warranted. You need to clearly be able to see what you are trying to hit.

This coming from a guy in CA where heat waves and hot weather are the norm for hunts.

@ $1500 likely wouldn’t buy one, at $1000 it would be a possibility if it has what is mentioned above.

1500, no.
1200, I'd try 1
1000, would have multiple

<$1000 yes, over $1000 maybe.

-$1000-1200 price point

I’d be in for 5

That’s about where I’m at too. $1000 for a scope is my absolute max. I can get an swfa and cut off the windage turret and make a diy zero stop for $600.

Yes. Preferably $1000ish. My primary concern would be timing, as I’m in the market to change out my current scope and I’d prefer to not buy/sell immediately nor wait years for this scope to appear on the market.

As described I'd consider one at $1500.... Probably get one at some point and maybe a second down the line.

At $1000 I'd get 2 as quickly as possible.

Quick search of the posts in this thread shows that several members would buy several scopes, if closer to $1000.

Not trying the derail the mission here, but that would be encouraging simply in terms of volume or as a follow up model.

I have no data to support this, but my guess is ~$1200 would be the max for many people, with 12x. Especially outside of the Rok fan club.
 
This old man's eyes would prefer a little bit of power, and a larger bell. Let's say 3-15x50 would be perfecto for me.
And with a simple, well thought, MIL reticle.
 
Quick search of the posts in this thread shows that several members would buy several scopes, if closer to $1000.

Not trying the derail the mission here, but that would be encouraging simply in terms of volume or as a follow up model.

I have no data to support this, but my guess is ~$1200 would be the max for many people, with 12x. Especially outside of the Rok fan club.
Perhaps ... but then the question becomes whether one is wanting to create a scope for 'many people', or if creating the ultimate scope is the goal, and then letting people find the value in it.

In any case, the two most comparable scopes (in terms of concept, if not execution) are likely the RS 1.2, a direct-to-consumer product at $1200 list, but can be had for less during sales and LE/MIL discount; and the LHRS 2, which weirdly lists on Bushnell's site for $1615.45 (where you can't purchase it), but at GA Precision for $959. So presumably $950 - $1200 is completely doable.

The other reference point (close in execution, but not in concept, perhaps) would be the Tenmile 3-18, with a list price of $2300-ish, but fairly easy to purchase for $1500-ish, and sometimes on sale for less - perhaps suggesting a point that works for both seller and purchaser.

Frank also had a podcast where he talked about the actual production costs of scopes versus retail, and how the large mark-ups were part of the influx of new brand names, marketed by people who knew nothing about precision shooting, hunting, or optics ... There must be what, at least 10 of these new brands in the last few years alone. The flipside of this is that scopes that have sligthly better quality specs can still come in at reasonable retail prices if the margins are not so astronomically high.
 
Scope specs:

FFP 3-12x40 to 3-12x44mm

Consistently holds zero through 3-foot drops and 3,000 rounds of constant use.

The reticle is specially designed for 25 to 600 yards, with bold outer posts and correct center aiming references.

Zero Stop

Low profile top turret.

Capped windage.

Large eye box

Good glass

20oz


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Yes, with a locking turret with zero stop. I don’t like the idea of a turret turning going in and out of a saddle scabbard.
 
I just bought a Nightforce NXS 2.5-10 MIL-R. Reticle could be better and it’s SFP, but at 20 oz will make perfect for my “truck gun” build.

$1600 though so still pretty high in cost.
 
Scope specs:

FFP 3-12x40 to 3-12x44mm

Consistently holds zero through 3-foot drops and 3,000 rounds of constant use.

The reticle is specially designed for 25 to 600 yards, with bold outer posts and correct center aiming references.

Zero Stop

Low profile top turret.

Capped windage.

Large eye box

Good glass

20oz


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

No. I want to be able to dial for windage
 
I just bought a Nightforce NXS 2.5-10 MIL-R. Reticle could be better and it’s SFP, but at 20 oz will make perfect for my “truck gun” build.

$1600 though so still pretty high in cost.

When I think of truck gun builds, I don't think of Nightforce NXS scopes being in the picture. I am a poor. On my budget, I think Meopta Optika 5.
 
They do exist, only let's you dial a certain amount in each direction.

Zero stop isn't really the right name for it, more like a revolution limiter.
A well designed hunting reticle negates the need for dialing for windage. I used to do the same as you, especially on long range and varmint comps where time was not limited. Switching to hold over with a well designed MIL reticle is the way.
 
A well designed hunting reticle negates the need for dialing for windage. I used to do the same as you, especially on long range and varmint comps where time was not limited. Switching to hold over with a well designed MIL reticle is the way.
I was just pointing out they exist.

I don't dial for windage, my preference is 100% capped, I can live with locking but exposed is just a liability.
 
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