Why is it so hard to get my scope level?

[Dos XX]

Pic rail? If so, use a set of feeler gages to level the bottom of the scope to the top of the pic rail. Don't tighten them all the way, tight enough that it won't move on its own but loose enough that you can move it. Hang a plumb bob off a fence or something in back yard. Level the action. See if the reticle is plumb to the bob. If not move it until it is. Tighten screws to torque in stages. I use a set of calipers or the feeler gages again to stage tighten the screws. I get consistent gaps between top and bottom ring caps this way.

Or buy this.

SPUHR Scope Installation Leveling Tool - Short Action Precision

The SPUHR two piece scope mount leveling tool is the proper tool to get your scope mounted perfectly level with any brand of two piece ring set up to 1.535" high. Perfect scope level tool for mounting Works with All Brands of two piece ring sets 7075 Aluminum Construction Sealed hardcoat finish...

www.shortactionprecision.com

 

[thinhorn_AK]

Are you asking what is the optimum way to mount the scope and the optimum way to shoot it- which almost certainly means you will have to retrain yourself; or what way should you do it with no desire to practice or train?

I’m just trying to get a scope level on a rifle. I do plan on practicing with it but I want to make sure it’s set up right so I’m not blasting off a bunch of ammo then trying to mess with the scope.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

Pic rail? If so, use a set of feeler gages to level the bottom of the scope to the top of the pic rail. Don't tighten them all the way, tight enough that it won't move on its own but loose enough that you can move it. Hang a plumb bob off a fence or something in back yard. Level the action. See if the reticle is plumb to the bob. If not move it until it is. Tighten screws to torque in stages. I use a set of calipers or the feeler gages again to stage tighten the screws. I get consistent gaps between top and bottom ring caps this way.

Or buy this.

SPUHR Scope Installation Leveling Tool - Short Action Precision

The SPUHR two piece scope mount leveling tool is the proper tool to get your scope mounted perfectly level with any brand of two piece ring set up to 1.535" high. Perfect scope level tool for mounting Works with All Brands of two piece ring sets 7075 Aluminum Construction Sealed hardcoat finish...

www.shortactionprecision.com

No scope rail, warne maxima bases and mountain tech scope rings. All degreased and properly torqued.

 

[AnkleRoller]

Not necessarily your case, but if the scope has a very forgiving eyebox that allows an apparenly-full picture when slightly off-axis, it may appear to be crooked by distortion of the subtensions. This is most easily shown by backing far enough away from, and off axis enough, to still see the reticle against a non-illuminated background (still see the crosshairs against black). Anything except perfectly centered will, to various degree, bend portion of the crosshairs that are closest to the edge toward each other. Handgun scopes are an extreme example where the eye relief necessarily allows for an eyebox to accommodate imperfect alignment.
Taking a piece of paper behind the ocular and shining a light in the front should quickly show the ideal eye relief. It might be instructive, as some long eye-relief scopes converge at a place that isn't where you'd think just by wiggling it to what looks correct.

 

[Juan_ID]

I know my eye and body doesn’t shoulder anything near level based on the reticle/bubble level. I try to keep my scope mounting as simple as possible. Put a wheeler level on the action then put a clamp level down by the muzzle. Line them up then level the crosshairs with a plumb line I have hanging out on my back fence about 20 yards away while keeping the muzzle level. The plumb and level on the turret caps don’t usually line up 100% so I follow the plumb line. When shouldering it feels “off” when level but it shoots well enough at distance I trust it.

 

[JF_Idaho]

Plumb Bob the reticle and add a high quality reference scope bubble level.

Gravity is your only true reference.

anything else is tolerance.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

How do you do it? I know you’ve shot some coues deer at long range.

I’ve been fortunate to kill lots of animals at what most would consider very long range.

Are you asking how I level a scope when mounting or how I ensure my reticle is level when shooting long range?

 

[grfox92]

Mount a scope mounted clamp on level. Level that while you mount the scope with your wheeler level set. Then you will know exactly where the gun is at when you shoulder and or shoot it.

Sent from my SM-G990U2 using Tapatalk

 

[thinhorn_AK]

I’ve been fortunate to kill lots of animals at what most would consider very long range.

Are you asking how I level a scope when mounting or how I ensure my reticle is level when shooting long range?

Both if you have time.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

Mount a scope mounted clamp on level. Level that while you mount the scope with your wheeler level set. Then you will know exactly where the gun is at when you shoulder and or shoot it.

Sent from my SM-G990U2 using Tapatalk

I’m ordering one right now.

 

[grfox92]

I’m ordering one right now.

It will at least gives you some data to better chose how to move forward.

Sent from my SM-G990U2 using Tapatalk

 

[PNWGATOR]

The Defensive Edge scope leveling kit makes yiour life easy if you feel the need:

Products

defensiveedge.net

Makes leveling your system to the World easy.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

The Defensive Edge scope leveling kit makes yiour life easy if you feel the need:

Products

defensiveedge.net

Makes leveling your system to the World easy.

Maybe I’ll get that too.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

Both if you have time.

I work for a positioning technology company, and am lucky to be able to use a high end, self leveling laser to mount the scope to the rifle. Takes less than 5 minutes and is perfect every time. There are a couple different ways to get it correct without using a laser.

Previously mentioned plumb-bob method is very effective. There are “kits” you can buy these days that are actually quite nice. I think defensive edge makes one that my buddy says works great for him. Another way is to simply create a horizontal line using a calibrated digital smart level (you can get these from Home Depot now and they are very accurate). Splurge and get a stabila after you save up some bucks.

After ensuring your rifle is fixed and level (a whole separate conversation that most get incorrect) align your horizontal scope reticle perfectly parallel to your validated horizontal line. Ensure that not only the line was drawn perfectly, but you have fixed it to something where you know the line is perfectly level.

When leveling and fixing the rifle for no movement during a scope installation, I install a level bubble onto the rifle for most rifles. Doesn’t have to be anything fancy, just something that you can fix to the rifle where you know it will not deviate. The bubble is used when taking shots to ensure the rifle, and then in turn, the scope reticle is level for the shot. This takes lots of field practice to get used to factoring into a hunting shot.

 

[The Guide]

This is what I use on all scopes I mount. Used to mount all the scopes for a LGS before we moved. I got some nice tips and a good bonus cause we would sell more scopes with me mounting them using my fixture from Holland Shooter Supply.


Prep : Mount everything and find the proper eye relief on the scope for the primary shooter both standing offhand and prone on lowest and highest powers of the scope. Make sure the rings wont block anything and that the bolt handle doesn't hit anything. Mark the eye relief on the scope using blue painters tape on the scope tube where it touches the back of the rear ring. Mark where the scope rings go on the rail if there are multiple positions to place it. Remove the scope, the scope rings, and torque the rail screws to the appropriate level for the screws used.

Step 1: Place the gun in the fixture. Point the gun in the direction of the plumb line you will use in step 4. Remove the bolt from the gun if itnis a bolt action and you want to do a quick and dirty bore sight before you finish. Level the action (not the rail or the stock) in the fixture using the screw jack.

Step 2: Check the level on the rail. See how it compares to the action. You might need to remove the rail and clean the surfaces or remove a burr (screw holes sometimes need a slight chamfer due to manufacturing imperfections) to get a solid flush level fit and rarely did I bed a rail to get it to fully contact but some like to do that. If the rail is within 1/2 bubble of plumb, I call it good enough but most are usually closer.

Step 3: Mount the scope rings where they were previously fitted. Torque ring to base screws to proper torque specs based on manufacture and fastener type.

Step 4: Place scope in rings at correct eye relief previously located. Place ring caps on and insert ring cap screws. Start screws but stop before they make any contact. Using a plumb line (one is included in the kit or a level can be used to make a permanent line on the wall if this is being done all the time in a business) align the vertical line of the reticle with your plumb line. Once you have a good vertical alignment with your vertical witnesses line, start tightening the scope caps. Use good tightening technique to avoid twisting the scope out of level while tightening each side evenly. Torque your screws appropriately.

Step 5: While the gun is still in the fixture and everything is still level, install your bubble level. I personally don't like to "center" the bubble on the level. Seems like you can get a lot of cant on a rifle while still remaining "level". I choose a side and align the bubble to the line on that side. I like the inside line personally.

Step 6: If you want to do a quick and dirty bore sight, look down the barrel of the rifle from the action to the muzzle and align the vertical witnesses mark with the center of the bore. Don't move the rifle and adjust your left and right on the scope to match the mark. If you have the ability to see something 25 to 50 yards away, you can adjust the up and down but I've found that just getting the left and right close will get you on paper at 25 yards for an initial sight in.

Now you are ready to give the client their gun back and they can hit the range. It will have taken about 10 minutes to complete the entire process. Check the eye relief again from low power and high power both standing and prone to verify it is correct and in the eye box. Over 50% of people would tell me that I mounted their scope crooked. I would tell them to look at their level and it would always be off. If they had not purchased a level, I would take the scope off, remount it the same way but add a level clamped to the barrel (designed for leveling firearms) and have them look again. Most people hold their rifles out of plumb offhand and that is why they miss shots or hit animals poorly on top of being unpracticed from those positions. These same people are often great shots from prone due to using a level and trusting it to be right and not their eye.

Anyway, I hope this helps. If you are interested in the fixture I use you can find documentation on it here. And you can purchase it here.

Jay

 

[Wrench]

On a 2 lug rifle it is very simple to get dead plumb.

Pull the bolt from the rifle. Slide a parallel into the bolt raceway. Place a level on the parallel. Aim the leveled rifle at a building corner, plumb line....etc. lock it down and ensure nothing moved.

It couldn't be easier.

Now that you're level, peek through the bore at a small object several hundred yards away.....bring the reticle to the bore image.

Just like that, you're boresighted too.

 

[Castle Rock]

I have never read so much nonsense about something so simple
Pull your head back a bit and get the vertical wire to bisect the center of the back end of the firing pin

 

[AnkleRoller]

I have never read so much nonsense about something so simple
Pull your head back a bit and get the vertical wire to bisect the center of the back end of the firing pin

... and if reticle isn't mechanically centered or your eyeball isn't exactly on axis, fail. But at least it won't be nonsense.

 

[PlumberED]

This is what I use on all scopes I mount. Used to mount all the scopes for a LGS before we moved. I got some nice tips and a good bonus cause we would sell more scopes with me mounting them using my fixture from Holland Shooter Supply.


Prep : Mount everything and find the proper eye relief on the scope for the primary shooter both standing offhand and prone on lowest and highest powers of the scope. Make sure the rings wont block anything and that the bolt handle doesn't hit anything. Mark the eye relief on the scope using blue painters tape on the scope tube where it touches the back of the rear ring. Mark where the scope rings go on the rail if there are multiple positions to place it. Remove the scope, the scope rings, and torque the rail screws to the appropriate level for the screws used.

Step 1: Place the gun in the fixture. Point the gun in the direction of the plumb line you will use in step 4. Remove the bolt from the gun if itnis a bolt action and you want to do a quick and dirty bore sight before you finish. Level the action (not the rail or the stock) in the fixture using the screw jack.

Step 2: Check the level on the rail. See how it compares to the action. You might need to remove the rail and clean the surfaces or remove a burr (screw holes sometimes need a slight chamfer due to manufacturing imperfections) to get a solid flush level fit and rarely did I bed a rail to get it to fully contact but some like to do that. If the rail is within 1/2 bubble of plumb, I call it good enough but most are usually closer.

Step 3: Mount the scope rings where they were previously fitted. Torque ring to base screws to proper torque specs based on manufacture and fastener type.

Step 4: Place scope in rings at correct eye relief previously located. Place ring caps on and insert ring cap screws. Start screws but stop before they make any contact. Using a plumb line (one is included in the kit or a level can be used to make a permanent line on the wall if this is being done all the time in a business) align the vertical line of the reticle with your plumb line. Once you have a good vertical alignment with your vertical witnesses line, start tightening the scope caps. Use good tightening technique to avoid twisting the scope out of level while tightening each side evenly. Torque your screws appropriately.

Step 5: While the gun is still in the fixture and everything is still level, install your bubble level. I personally don't like to "center" the bubble on the level. Seems like you can get a lot of cant on a rifle while still remaining "level". I choose a side and align the bubble to the line on that side. I like the inside line personally.

Step 6: If you want to do a quick and dirty bore sight, look down the barrel of the rifle from the action to the muzzle and align the vertical witnesses mark with the center of the bore. Don't move the rifle and adjust your left and right on the scope to match the mark. If you have the ability to see something 25 to 50 yards away, you can adjust the up and down but I've found that just getting the left and right close will get you on paper at 25 yards for an initial sight in.

Now you are ready to give the client their gun back and they can hit the range. It will have taken about 10 minutes to complete the entire process. Check the eye relief again from low power and high power both standing and prone to verify it is correct and in the eye box. Over 50% of people would tell me that I mounted their scope crooked. I would tell them to look at their level and it would always be off. If they had not purchased a level, I would take the scope off, remount it the same way but add a level clamped to the barrel (designed for leveling firearms) and have them look again. Most people hold their rifles out of plumb offhand and that is why they miss shots or hit animals poorly on top of being unpracticed from those positions. These same people are often great shots from prone due to using a level and trusting it to be right and not their eye.

Anyway, I hope this helps. If you are interested in the fixture I use you can find documentation on it here. And you can purchase it here.

Jay

I use a similar method to level the reticle in my scope. I have a plumb bob/string hanging on a screw on the wall of my gun room, once the rifle is level as described above and facing away fro the plum bob, I shine a flashlight through the objective of the scope to project an image of the reticle on the wall next to the plumb bob string and twist the scope to align the vertical line of the reticle with the plumb bob string.

Once you are certain that the reticle is level/plumb and aligned with the axis of rifle any cant you perceive in the reticle when shouldering the rifle is probably an illusion.

I hope this is helpful.

 

[Luked]

When I set my scopes up opn the rifle from the start I level everything. The rifle in the vise with a level on the action then clamp it down in the vise. make sure it stays level. Then the barrel gets a level also. remove the level off the action mount my scope rings, check them for level, then set the scope in with a level on top of the scope. At each step i make sure the level on the barrel stays level all the time. Then tighten the scope rings down keeping an eye on the level. Once done it seems to work every time.
I have had rifles where I have had to start over from scratch more than once just to make sure its all done right.
I use the level kit from Wheeler Engineering. Seems to work really well for what I need it too.