VXR stability at full draw

[HighUintas]

I've got a VXR 28 that I bought the first year they came out. Up until then I was shooting a Mathews LX. The difference between the two is night and day for stability at full draw and it hinders my shooting with the VXR.

At full draw with the VXR, it seems incredibly easy to torque the bow left/right, so much so that if I'm fatigued at all (like after shooting 10 arrows straight) then the sight pin may start dancing left/right. I never had this issue with the old LX and I shot that bow so much better. I wish I would have kept it!

I've never used a stabilizer on either bow and I can't imagine it helping much unless I had one of those stupid long ones.

Has anyone experienced this and figured out the cause? My best guess is the grip design, but could be wrong there. Is it just the design of the bow?

 

[Marshfly]

You need to dump the stock grip for side plates or the Beereal grip. The grip shape is trash. Very few people can shoot it well. (My son can amazingly.)

You can "try" side plates by just ripping the grip off and shooting bare. It will increase the draw length about a quarter inch.

 

[180ls1]

The geometry of that bow is going to make it tough to shoot.

I'd cut your losses and get something more forgiving. Longer brace, longer ATA, better riser geometry, etc.... Stabilizers do help as well.

Whats your draw length?

 

[HighUintas]

You need to dump the stock grip for side plates or the Beereal grip. The grip shape is trash. Very few people can shoot it well. (My son can amazingly.)

You can "try" side plates by just ripping the grip off and shooting bare. It will increase the draw length about a quarter inch.

Thanks, I'll look into the beereal grip.

 

[Marshfly]

Thanks, I'll look into the beereal grip.

I would try the riser first. I hate the bee real grip. My wife loves it.

 

[HighUintas]

The geometry of that bow is going to make it tough to shoot.

I'd cut your losses and get something more forgiving. Longer brace, longer ATA, better riser geometry, etc.... Stabilizers do help as well.

Whats your draw length?

It's 28.5. I'd assumed that a shorter BH and ATA compared to my LX would make it less forgiving, which isn't a huge issue since I've got good form and follow through, but the stability after spending several years with it is very noticeably lacking. I figured I'll probably use it for a few more years since I've mainly been focusing on rifle and then start shopping again

 

[HighUintas]

I would try the riser first. I hate the bee real grip. My wife loves it.

So you're saying just tear the grip off and just shoot it using the bare riser as a grip?

 

[180ls1]

It's 28.5. I'd assumed that a shorter BH and ATA compared to my LX would make it less forgiving, which isn't a huge issue since I've got good form and follow through, but the stability after spending several years with it is very noticeably lacking. I figured I'll probably use it for a few more years since I've mainly been focusing on rifle and then start shopping again

At the very least its worth trying a stabilizer setup. That includes a side/back bar. Not one of the super short ones either. I would start with as long as you are comfortable.

 

[Marshfly]

So you're saying just tear the grip off and just shoot it using the bare riser as a grip?

Yeah. I shot my V3x like that for a month before ordering Shadow Creek side plates. Watch your index knuckle though. I have a friend that did this with large hands and he got a little cut from an arrow vane. I didn't have that issue. You will know pretty quickly if this is for you though.

The grip is put on with that rolly rubbery glue stuff. Easy to reattach if that doesn't solve you issue.

 

[Ho5tile1]

I have also had the VXR 28 since it came out Ive also got most of the newer Mathews bows but I still hunt with the VXR I shoot it with the short flat line stab on the front and the limb legs on it. I took the grip off and use the total peep grip and I have zero problems with that bow wanting to torque I also shoot it at 82 pounds with a shorter string set on it so I don’t have to twist the cables so much. For me the VXR is rock solid at full draw and I shoot it out past a 100 regularly. The VXR is one of my favorite bows ever. It’s possible you just don’t get along with this short ATA bow? Try the grip see if it helps if not sale it get something else. Some folks just don’t like short bows I like a 30 or 31 ata bow but that VXR 28 just flat shoots for me and is super easy to get iron will heads to fly good out of it.. good luck


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[BBob]

I didn’t shoot the factory grip well either. I tried no grip and a Beereal. The Beereal is perfect for me. I like that the flattish square shape gives me feedback that the grip is right where it belongs at the base of the palm/thumb pad and that I could leave the draw length alone. No grip was just a bit too long and I’d have had to change it.

 

[Kularrow]

I have a V3 27 and I know exactly what you are going through. The short ATA and string angle can create some significant issues. Especially if your draw length is longer than ATA. I have a 29 so I’m 2 inches longer but these bows have a relatively long riser compared to your LX and parallel limbs so the bow is plenty accurate even given some of the disadvantages. I love mine for the mobility in a Treestand. Here’s how I overcame what you’re dealing with:

1. Just shoot the lights out of the bow and get accustomed to it, it takes time but once you’re comfortable you’re set.
2. Reinforcing your anchor points, bowmars suck but the nose button hands down is the most consistent anchor point I’ve found along with the bone on bone for my index release. It allows your head to be in the same exact position on every shot which is especially crucial with the string angle on the V3 27 and VXR 28.
3. I loaded the bow up with weight to stabilize it. I run a 12 inch front with 2oz and a 8 inch rear with 7oz and I also shoot with a Q lite quiver permenantly attached with 6 arrows to simulate hunting conditions. All of this has really settled my bow and reduced swaying and my sight level is dead on when I draw and aim so it’s completely balanced out.

I hope this helps.

 

[Marble]

I've got a VXR 28 that I bought the first year they came out. Up until then I was shooting a Mathews LX. The difference between the two is night and day for stability at full draw and it hinders my shooting with the VXR.

At full draw with the VXR, it seems incredibly easy to torque the bow left/right, so much so that if I'm fatigued at all (like after shooting 10 arrows straight) then the sight pin may start dancing left/right. I never had this issue with the old LX and I shot that bow so much better. I wish I would have kept it!

I've never used a stabilizer on either bow and I can't imagine it helping much unless I had one of those stupid long ones.

Has anyone experienced this and figured out the cause? My best guess is the grip design, but could be wrong there. Is it just the design of the bow?

I would see if someone had a front/back bar set up to try out. There's a reason why they are common on nearly every compound bow. Those bows create rotational torque. The stabilizers helps eliminate that.

Also, moving from one ATA to another, your draw length may need adjusting. Something to try out.

But IMO, that size of bow has never been comfortable for me to shoot. But that's me.

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[HighUintas]

I'm going to have to shoot the heck out of it over the next couple months to see if I can get it whipped. If not, I'll try a new grip.

A stabilizer would be my last resort as I do not want to lug those around the mountains on my bow. I typically still hunt a lot and don't need any more stuff to catch limbs. But if the grip doesn't work maybe I'll see if my local shop will let me borrow one at their range.

I'm effective out to 60 if I've been practicing, but want to minimize sources of error when possible. So it's not a huge deal if I can't figure it out but it would be nice to remove that annoyance

 

[Fullfan]

Have the vxr in the 28. Removed the Mathews grip and installed Mathews side plates. My groups over 50 shrank considerably.

 

[HighUintas]

I'd like to try pulling the grip off and shooting off the riser to see if side plates would work, but my DL is perfect if not a frog hair too log, so I don't want to increase it.

 

[Jfujan]

I was having a similiar experience with my VXR 31.5. I took the grip off and have been shooting the bare riser without side plates. I really like it that way. I also put some lizard skins baseball bat grip tape on it as it can be a bit slick without. May be worth a try before spending $50-$100 on a new grip/side plates.

 

[Marshfly]

I'd like to try pulling the grip off and shooting off the riser to see if side plates would work, but my DL is perfect if not a frog hair too log, so I don't want to increase it.

You will know pretty quickly if shooting from the riser is for you. Then you can just swap mods. The time to sort this out is now and not a month from now, IMHO.

 

[Billy Goat]

I'd try going with a 1/2" shorter mod.


Did you measure the DL on you LX? Or just go by what it says?

The older mathews were closer to actual DL than any of the newer stuff. My MQ32 draws an actual 29", the newer bows you want 28.5 to get an actual 29".


If it's not holding, your DL probably isn't right.

 

[Dschwan]

If you have a 3d printer give some of these a try. The 10 deg grip was night and day difference for me on my v3x.

Printables

www.printables.com