VXR stability at full draw

[HighUintas]

I'd try going with a 1/2" shorter mod.


Did you measure the DL on you LX? Or just go by what it says?

The older mathews were closer to actual DL than any of the newer stuff. My MQ32 draws an actual 29", the newer bows you want 28.5 to get an actual 29".


If it's not holding, your DL probably isn't right.

Interesting. My DL on my LX was 28" and last I remember when I was tuning it, I had the DL measured on a draw board at pretty darn close 28". I haven't had the VXR measured on a draw board but it has 28.5 mods. Nock is right under my eye and string hits my nose tip and corner of my mouth.

So you're saying the VXR my actually be a measured 29" DL?

 

[Billy Goat]

Interesting. My DL on my LX was 28" and last I remember when I was tuning it, I had the DL measured on a draw board at pretty darn close 28". I haven't had the VXR measured on a draw board but it has 28.5 mods. Nock is right under my eye and string hits my nose tip and corner of my mouth.

So you're saying the VXR my actually be a measured 29" DL?

A SW Mathews will normally measure at minimum 3/8" long, frequently a 1/2. The C3X cam on TRX's are the same, just vary depending on letoff % of mod, as well as the previous CCT and CC2.

It of course all depends on string/cable lengths, but instead of twisting string and untwisting cables to get DL right and ending up different places with holding weight and peak, it's easiest to just go 1/2" shorter.

 

[HighUintas]

A SW Mathews will normally measure at minimum 3/8" long, frequently a 1/2. The C3X cam on TRX's are the same, just vary depending on letoff % of mod, as well as the previous CCT and CC2.

It of course all depends on string/cable lengths, but instead of twisting string and untwisting cables to get DL right and ending up different places with holding weight and peak, it's easiest to just go 1/2" shorter.

Good to know! I'll have to go to my shop and have it checked out

 

[Billy Goat]

Good to know! I'll have to go to my shop and have it checked out

Keep in mind it's a lot of factors that influence your correct DL besides just where the nock hits the string from the grip. Or where the nock sits on your face etc.


I change my loop length and the DL of the bow to get the overall DL that works best for me. String angle plays a big role. Shorter ATA is generally shorter loop and longer DL, longer ATA is a longer loop with shorter DL, then grip angles, but I have used same aftermarket grip for a number of years now. What I'm using the bow for changes things slightly too.

 

[Marshfly]

I'd try going with a 1/2" shorter mod.


Did you measure the DL on you LX? Or just go by what it says?

The older mathews were closer to actual DL than any of the newer stuff. My MQ32 draws an actual 29", the newer bows you want 28.5 to get an actual 29".


If it's not holding, your DL probably isn't right.

Great point right here.

 

[HighUintas]

I had my wife take a picture of me at full draw. Out of curiosity. I'm fairly certain I'm a half inch or maybe even a full inch too long on my drawer length.

This picture is taken with me feeling comfortable and feeling like my form was good, But it does look a bit like I'm opened up a little too much and arching my back a little too much

I'm going to go by the archery shop tomorrow and see about getting some different mods put on. Considering that the switch weight mods produce a draw length that is actually a bit longer than stated, and these are the 28.5 and 85% let off mods, I'm thinking I might want to go 27.5 at the same let off, or 28 at 80% let off. I've read that the 85% let off has a slightly longer draw length than 80%.

Would going to 80% let off shorten the valley at full draw? The valley on this bow feels much shorter than the valley on my LX, which I liked and I don't care for the short valley on this bow as much. So if it shortens it, I may want to stick with 85% lead off. It's also possible that if my draw length is too long, it's just making the valley feel shorter than it really is because I'm fully extended at full draw without any room to spare

 

[Marshfly]

You look a touch long. Like you say, you look stretched out. I bet it's tough to pull through on a step downhill shot. Shorter will make your hold more steady I bet.

We have 3 Mathews Switchweight shooters in my family and we all use 80% mods. Smoother over the cam on the draw and hold better. They are also slightly (1/8-1/4") shorter than the 85% mods.

 

[Ho5tile1]

Yea you do look a touch to long I’d try the 28 inch mod. I shoot the 85% mods but I have shot the 80% mods and they didn’t feel any different other than the valley. But above post says it feels longer so each person is different. In your picture your release arm is pointed up a little instead of parallel with the arrow moving that hand forward a little will probably get it parallel. O would also relax that front hand and not point those fingers that will introduce torque as well. Good luck man


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[bojangles808]

it will slightly shorten your valley but it will feel smoother as theres less of a dump into the shorter valley. never rly felt like it wanted to take off on me though like some bows though. if your bow shop doesnt have i might have some 80 % 27.5 or 28 mods i bought a bunch as i was trying different dl on my vertix before i sold it

 

[HighUintas]

I called my local Scheels today and they have a bunch of 28" 85% mods in stock and they do a free swap if you're swapping, so that would be a great way to try it for free. However I'm sure I'd probably have to tune it again and may need my arrows cut if I go to 27.5.

I'll have to call my local bow shop tomorrow when they open to see if they have any on hand. My archery season opens August 16 so I'm cutting it close for screwing around with the set up.

 

[Ho5tile1]

I wouldn’t worry about cutting your arrows unless you just want to, your rest timing will probably be off and yea I’d go through the tuning process again. None of my 4 switch weight Mathews bows at 85% 29 inches have a dump into the valley they are pretty linear all the way back no dump at the end for me. maybe it’s different at shorter draw lengths?


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[Marshfly]

Changing mods will do hardly nothing to a tuned Mathews. Especially an inch. I would be more worried about having a calm hold than having to take an hour to tune.

Arrow length is fine. Ignore that part of the deal.

 

[Ho5tile1]

Changing mods will do hardly nothing to a tuned Mathews. Especially an inch. I would be more worried about having a calm hold than having to take an hour to tune.

Arrow length is fine. Ignore that part of the deal.

You don’t think the rest timing of a cable driven rest will change when changing draw length? If that’s what he is using?


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[HighUintas]

You don’t think the rest timing of a cable driven rest will change when changing draw length? If that’s what he is using?


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Yes it's a cable driven rest. I've seen people mention it going both ways. Sometimes it can require a retune and sometimes not. I always just paper tune and then make sure my broad heads are hitting to same point of aim (adjust sight if not) and make sure they appear to be flying true. Generally all I have to do is adjust the sight a smidge. I've not tuned it since last year, but I've been shooting field points out to 80 and they hit where I want when my hold is good.

I'll likely shoot through paper to make sure nothing major changes, then see how it does at distance. If I can hit where I want, I won't worry about extra tuning work.

I'm not a tuning fanatic and only do that when I notice erratic flight or inaccuracy. In all the years I've been shooting, practice has made more difference in my ability to hit a kill zone at my max yardage (65ish) than getting a perfect tune. I did my own tuning and twisting of stings and cables on my LX since I was familiar with it and never saw huge improvements when I had it perfect. In my opinion, it's a bit like chasing your tail over a perfect rifle handload. A decent tune and loads of practice is what kills.

 

[Marshfly]

You don’t think the rest timing of a cable driven rest will change when changing draw length? If that’s what he is using?


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All three of my family Mathews use QADs. I’ve had zero issues changing draw length a half inch or an inch. All three of us have played with draw length multiple times.

That said I set mine up with a little extra cable hanging out of the rest hole so I can loosen the set screw slightly and let the rest self time if needed.

 

[Ho5tile1]

All three of my family Mathews use QADs. I’ve had zero issues changing draw length a half inch or an inch. All three of us have played with draw length multiple times.

That said I set mine up with a little extra cable hanging out of the rest hole so I can loosen the set screw slightly and let the rest self time if needed.

View attachment 739458

I do the exact same thing just in case I ever need that little bit.


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[Ho5tile1]

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[HighUintas]

Went to Scheels and had them swap out my mods to a 27.5 . It feels like a night and day difference at full draw. I don't know how I let the goofballs at the shop I bought it from steer me to a 28.5 . Then shit through paper and it didn't look great. So the tech also repositioned my rest and reset the nock point because the rest wasn't quite lined up with the berger hole correctly. Then shot a couple bullet holes through the paper.

what a great outcome. I'll have to get it resighted tonight and see if it helps stabilize my hold a bit. I imagine it will as it feels much better

 

[HighUintas]

Shot 35-40 arrows tonight. It holds great and I'm able to keep my groups together even as I get fatigued.

Thanks for all the advice and feedback guys! I may still try that beereal grip at some point. It looks much more comfortable and stable than the factory grip.

 

[Ho5tile1]

That’s awesome man glad you got it working for you


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