Ultralight Ultralight Rifles

Joined
Dec 16, 2020
Messages
773
Location
Idaho
In regards to the swfa 2.5-10x32 UL (BDC version) I've had good luck with them. Very easy scope to get behind IMO with a very bright and wide field of view considering its small size. I've found a trick with the BDC/SFP combo that works for me... I use it like a poor man's dialing scope. Basically, the different power changes the subtensions of the reticle, which I use to make a custom dope chart. Basically, from zero to 600 yards there is a combination of zoom and one of the ticks on the reticle that I can combine (within 3 yard increments) to get me a precise holdover. It sounds complicated, but in practice I find it only a second or two slower than my regular dialing scopes.
 
Joined
Mar 6, 2013
Messages
3,266
My Shaw portless is doing alright with AAC 77 TMK. 1.5” is about average for 5 shots. Some of that is me getting used to the light weight and trigger. I did have one group about an inch not counting a shot I called as me.
Hoping as I get used to the rifle it can do a little better or I might need to load for it.
I did go 3 for 3 on a 300 yard gong pretty easily.
 

goalie

FNG
Joined
Dec 22, 2020
Messages
71
Location
Midwest
My Shaw portless is doing alright with AAC 77 TMK. 1.5” is about average for 5 shots. Some of that is me getting used to the light weight and trigger. I did have one group about an inch not counting a shot I called as me.
Hoping as I get used to the rifle it can do a little better or I might need to load for it.
I did go 3 for 3 on a 300 yard gong pretty easily.
The AAC ammo has impressed me. I use the 77g OTM in competition to 500 out of my Geissele with good results.

That said, I'm gonna be loading for mine. I have a ton of primed 223 brass from my High-power days that I need to use.
 
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Thegman

WKR
Joined
Nov 21, 2015
Messages
687
In regards to the swfa 2.5-10x32 UL (BDC version) I've had good luck with them. Very easy scope to get behind IMO with a very bright and wide field of view considering its small size. I've found a trick with the BDC/SFP combo that works for me... I use it like a poor man's dialing scope. Basically, the different power changes the subtensions of the reticle, which I use to make a custom dope chart. Basically, from zero to 600 yards there is a combination of zoom and one of the ticks on the reticle that I can combine (within 3 yard increments) to get me a precise holdover. It sounds complicated, but in practice I find it only a second or two slower than my regular dialing scopes.
Thanks for the thought on this. My biggest problem with the 2.5-10 is using it on 10x as the eye box gets too critical for me. Just messed with strelok a little and I can get the reticle to be pretty close out to 400 yards using 8x. Falls apart a little beyond that, but I rarely shoot further than anyway, and turning up to 8.5-9 pretty much fixes those ranges. 👍

A bonus is 8x actually lined up better for my new 88ELD M load than 10x. It's pretty much right on out to 550. Haven't shot it with the SWFA yet, but looks like it will work well.
 

PistolPete

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Dec 6, 2019
Messages
283
Working on a project to ease extraction and chambering. I got an aluminum bolt knob from Ebay and slapped it on - its huge, so I might shorten it, but I also really want a 6 ARC and wonder if this might make it doable. Definitely increases the odds of knocking it out of battery, but we'll see how it goes.

Anyone know of a 20" lightweight 6 ARC barrel?

View attachment 734330

Bringing this back up for the extended bolt knob inquiries. If you message "kitascreations" on ebay, he'll customize the hole dimensions. I requested a .190 through hole and a .350 countersink 0.25 deep on the back side of the knob, but then ground the knob a little shorter and had to open up the countersink for the 10-32 screw I used (use loctite!). It's aluminum, so not difficult to customize.

I cut off and used the neck of the original Solo bolt handle to fit between the bolt and the new knob. Plus he did it all for free and the knob was like $20.
 

goalie

FNG
Joined
Dec 22, 2020
Messages
71
Location
Midwest
I'm using a looped, looped flat piece of cord (like the outer sleeve of some paracord) with something tacky on one side, like shoe goo.

You can see it in most of my field pics. The loop cinches against itself under weight and doesn't slip, but is also super easy to adjust, move or remove.

I did this as a stop-gap measure on my first Kaw Valley handguard, but it has worked so well that's all I use now.

Like Taudisio said, a hole (or two for a loop) would be really simple and more permanent if you want that.
View attachment 791370
I'm trying e6000 that ends up rubbery when cured on 550 and something a little wider to try with a boonie packer sling I already had.

IMG_20241117_115512602_HDR.jpg
 
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Thegman

WKR
Joined
Nov 21, 2015
Messages
687
I'm trying e6000 that ends up rubbery when cured on 550 and something a little wider to try with a boonie packer sling I already had.

View attachment 792312
E6000 is actually what I use. Works well. Have tried liquid tape and silicone as well. Liquid tape is okay, the silicone didn't work well. Maybe if it was thinned and penetrated the into the weave more it might work.
 

goalie

FNG
Joined
Dec 22, 2020
Messages
71
Location
Midwest
E6000 is actually what I use. Works well. Have tried liquid tape and silicone as well. Liquid tape is okay, the silicone didn't work well. Maybe if it was thinned and penetrated the into the weave more it might work.
That's good to know. I've used it for years to put bottle opener inserts into hockey pucks that I drill out with Forstner bits. It cures nice and tacky. I'm interested to see if there's any practical difference between the thicker webbing I had in my "rope drawer" and 550 cord with the middle strands removed in regards to how well it "holds" the carbon fiber tube.
 
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