Ultralight Ultralight Rifles

[Stocky]

Don't judge... its just carbon fiber tube, 3d printed parts, and lots of JBweld lol. Call it a first attempt at a DIY chassis.

Oh I'm not judging at all. Easiest to test function then chase aesthetics if it matters. So it mounts to just the rear screw? If you were in NZ I'd offer to try machine up something suitable from your 3d print. I have a similar project although trying to incorporate a blind mag into the print. I've got the same chambering although 22GT appeals to me to reduce recoil further.

 

[packgoatguy]

Oh I'm not judging at all. Easiest to test function then chase aesthetics if it matters. So it mounts to just the rear screw? If you were in NZ I'd offer to try machine up something suitable from your 3d print. I have a similar project although trying to incorporate a blind mag into the print. I've got the same chambering although 22GT appeals to me to reduce recoil further.

Actually, I ditched the action screws entirely, and the recoil lug. Instead the whole action is epoxied into the 29mm carbon tube. So, some of the epoxy is also in the action screw inlets on the reciever (but blocked off about halfway with some hot glue, so the epoxy only goes into the holes about a mm or two.) Kind of like glue-in bedding I reason. The only screws through the CF into the action are the ring screws... but I didn't leave them in tight while it was curing. Intention was to have the action effectively bedded (permanently) into the carbon fiber, in such a way as to not create any pressure points that could affect harmonics later.

Then that carbon tube is epoxied to the 3d-print part, which houses the trigger and a spot for me to glue in the recieving end of my removable stock.

I have the option of cutting out the section of carbon fiber tube where the magazine would go... then gluing in a 3d printed magwell. My son's original 3d print lower piece has a magwell that takes regular aics poly mags. But I liked the idea of having a smoother handhold up towards the trigger, as holding it there balances very nicely in the hand... and gives me more area to rest the stock on a tree or other hasty rest if needed. Because there isn't anything in the way of the chamber, its almost as quick to drop in a bullet (which are mounted on the outside near the stock) and rack a new round in, as it is to use the mag (with a bit of practice of course).

Here are some of our 3d print models. Now that we have the dimensions right... I'm thinking about making a drop in chassis version for one of my other kimbers. Probably bed that one more traditionally with action screws and recoil lug intact... I think the final product would be lighter than a factory stock, but far more useful with a pistol grip and AR style stock (then options like folders and removable stocks become an option).

 

[Stocky]

I've got some 29mm carbon tube trimmed out to match the inlet currently but i was going to use that as the bedding block for a stock build. I keep weighing up just making a full custom action to suit. Kind of like an AR tube gun.

 

[packgoatguy]

I've got some 29mm carbon tube trimmed out to match the inlet currently but i was going to use that as the bedding block for a stock build. I keep weighing up just making a full custom action to suit. Kind of like an AR tube gun.

Ya, that would be something!

 

[BasicUtahrd95]

Actually, I ditched the action screws entirely, and the recoil lug. Instead the whole action is epoxied into the 29mm carbon tube. So, some of the epoxy is also in the action screw inlets on the reciever (but blocked off about halfway with some hot glue, so the epoxy only goes into the holes about a mm or two.) Kind of like glue-in bedding I reason. The only screws through the CF into the action are the ring screws... but I didn't leave them in tight while it was curing. Intention was to have the action effectively bedded (permanently) into the carbon fiber, in such a way as to not create any pressure points that could affect harmonics later.

Then that carbon tube is epoxied to the 3d-print part, which houses the trigger and a spot for me to glue in the recieving end of my removable stock.

I have the option of cutting out the section of carbon fiber tube where the magazine would go... then gluing in a 3d printed magwell. My son's original 3d print lower piece has a magwell that takes regular aics poly mags. But I liked the idea of having a smoother handhold up towards the trigger, as holding it there balances very nicely in the hand... and gives me more area to rest the stock on a tree or other hasty rest if needed. Because there isn't anything in the way of the chamber, its almost as quick to drop in a bullet (which are mounted on the outside near the stock) and rack a new round in, as it is to use the mag (with a bit of practice of course).

Here are some of our 3d print models. Now that we have the dimensions right... I'm thinking about making a drop in chassis version for one of my other kimbers. Probably bed that one more traditionally with action screws and recoil lug intact... I think the final product would be lighter than a factory stock, but far more useful with a pistol grip and AR style stock (then options like folders and removable stocks become an option).

What material do you use for 3D printed parts that you use on hunts? I do a lot of design/prototyping with 3D printed PLA parts at work, but only recently got my own printer for personal projects. Looking forward to experimenting with new materials.

 

[KyleR1985]

Not an AR15... but still relatively lightweight...

I made a few mods to a kimber 84m 22creed. Now it is uglier than ever, single-shot, has a pistol grip, and a quick detach stock. Bare rifle is around 3lbs 10oz. Barrel is fluted, but not particularly ultralight... definitely some additional weight savings could be had there. But as it sits, it's right on the edge of shootability (any lighter-weight and recoil is starting to be an issue... it feels about the same as my 6.75lb all-up 6creed right now).

5.75lbs includes:
Kimber 84m action/fluted MA bolt
18 inch barrel
Nightforce 2.5-10x42 NXS MOA
DNZ Gamereaper 30mm 1 piece rings
Scythe-ti suppressor
MDT Carbon fiber grip
ARCA rail
Quick detach stock with cheek riser

Only had a few minutes of daylight left to shoot after the JBWeld finished curing... so only got a few rounds off. First 3 shots with factory 80eldm were touching (so I guess I didn't mess it up too badly.)

CopperCreek 80eldx load gave me 3285fps on the labradar. That puts it out past 800 yards before it drops below 2000fps...

I designed it to match the ergos of my hnt26 chassis... so it fits like a glove.

You weren’t lying about ugly! I think it may actually be uglier than the UlUl!

 

[ezwy]

First real thing killed with the ULUL. It shoots good. Had one misfire out of four rapid shots. It makes me wonder about the plastic hammer in the NFA lpk. But not enough to change it out yet. It just shoots good. Same point of impact out to 400 with 55 gr v max (what used on the turkey) and factory rounds and 73 eld m factory. My 40 grain speer’s with tite group work well out to about 200 as well!
Probably have 3-400 rounds through it at this point.

 

[180ls1]

First real thing killed with the ULUL. It shoots good. Had one misfire out of four rapid shots. It makes me wonder about the plastic hammer in the NFA lpk. But not enough to change it out yet. It just shoots good. Same point of impact out to 400 with 55 gr v max (what used on the turkey) and factory rounds and 73 eld m factory. My 40 grain speer’s with tite group work well out to about 200 as well!
Probably have 3-400 rounds through it at this point.


View attachment 881689

Well done with the kiddos!

They let you hunt turkeys with rifles in WY?

 

[ezwy]

Well done with the kiddos!

They let you hunt turkeys with rifles in WY?

Yes, although if I would have been packing a shotgun I would have killed a good Tom two hours earlier that ran past me in the brush. Could not track him in the 5x microprism at 30 yards

 

[The Guide]

Well done with the kiddos!

They let you hunt turkeys with rifles in WY?

We can hunt them with rifles in the fall in Montana but only shotgun/archery in the spring.

Jay

 

[packgoatguy]

What material do you use for 3D printed parts that you use on hunts? I do a lot of design/prototyping with 3D printed PLA parts at work, but only recently got my own printer for personal projects. Looking forward to experimenting with new materials.

Carbon Fiber-PLA or PLA. CF-PLA is more rigid, but more brittle. So, a piece like a butt-stock that normally might flex a bit under use, id go for PLA, but a part that will be bedded to my action id go for CF-PLA. If thoroughly cleaned and roughed up (both mating surfaces) ive had good success bonding carbon fiber to cf-pla with JBweld original cold weld. Maybe there are better epoxy options out there...

 

[JJ3]

Some of you guys were talking about making right side chargers. I don't know if this would work for you as there are openings on both sides, but they're pretty cheap. 6061, so not ideal, but probably okay.

Davidson Defense AR-15 Side Charging Billet Upper Receiver - Anodized

mmcarmory.com

These are essentially a right side charging version of the earlier Solo upper (I have a couple of them). I don't know if those are 6061, but they work well.

I would really like to try this concept but do not want a left side charge. Anything like Solo in a right hand charge? Everything I’ve found has been a compromise

 

[packgoatguy]

I would really like to try this concept but do not want a left side charge. Anything like Solo in a right hand charge? Everything I’ve found has been a compromise

You can look for something like the Davidson Defense AR-15 'Side-Car' Side Charging Billet Upper... but then you would need to find an aluminum bolt carrier to cut down, and tap in the threads for the side charging handle.

 

[packgoatguy]

You weren’t lying about ugly! I think it may actually be uglier than the UlUl!

I have a theory about the ugly... maybe the uglier the rifle... the better it shoots? Only had a few minutes between thunder storms this evening to shoot a couple more groups. First pic is 2 different brands of factory 80eldm and 80eldx ammo, the second pic is after dialing 1 click right and 1 click down, shooting a 3rd brand of ammo on a clean target, also 80gr eldx. Different velocities from each, but same poi..., and all about half-moa... I'm happy with ugly today

 

[Thegman]

I have a theory about the ugly... maybe the uglier the rifle... the better it shoots? Only had a few minutes between thunder storms this evening to shoot a couple more groups. First pic is 2 different brands of factory 80eldm and 80eldx ammo, the second pic is after dialing 1 click right and 1 click down, shooting a 3rd brand of ammo on a clean target, also 80gr eldx. Different velocities from each, but same poi..., and all about half-moa... I'm happy with ugly today

Well, it is a Kimber, after all...

Reminds me of my Montana.

 

[Thegman]

I would really like to try this concept but do not want a left side charge. Anything like Solo in a right hand charge? Everything I’ve found has been a compromise

Pretty much like @packgoatguy said. It would definitely be doable, but maybe not quite as clean as a Solo upper. FWIW, the left side charging actually works really well for a right handed shooter, at least for me anyway.

 

[Taudisio]

Pretty much like @packgoatguy said. It would definitely be doable, but maybe not quite as clean as a Solo upper. FWIW, the left side charging actually works really well for a right handed shooter, at least for me anyway.

I have two solos and a Ruger 9mm PCC with left side charging. I can confirm as a right handed shooter, I prefer the left side charging handle. Especially for prone shooting, the rifle never leaves my shoulder.

 

[packgoatguy]

Pretty much like @packgoatguy said. It would definitely be doable, but maybe not quite as clean as a Solo upper. FWIW, the left side charging actually works really well for a right handed shooter, at least for me anyway.

I too am right handed, and I didn't think I would like the left side charging handle in the beginning... but I was wrong. I now find it easier to use than right side options.

 

[Jesseb]

I too was thinking I might prefer right side charging. Especially for off hand shooting, but find the lightweight nature of these builds makes it a non issue and now I am glad I went with left side charging. Stay in the glass, on target with hand on the grip.

 

[Jesseb]

For those loading long with windowed mags, what kind of velocity and loads are you working with? I ran my regular gasser loads for initial testing and break in and had my 16” Shaw portless barrel around the 2700-2725 range with 77 tmk. Loaded a pressure ladder with Lever yesterday at 2.350” and 25.4-26.6 went 2802-2927 which is smokin! Big jump in velocity from 26-26.3 grains indicating possible pressure but no other signs.