UL fuel efficient cook system

[cornfedkiller]

Been very interested in the rough ridge high country system, been using a Soto/evernew combo and arguably could save some weight if the rough ridge is as fuel efficient as it says it use. Base weight minus fuel is a wash roughly.

Anyone on here eyeing the rough ridge?


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Pretty good discussion about them here: https://rokslide.com/forums/threads/new-cook-stove-on-the-market.436310/page-7#post-4579389

 

[mod7rem]

Do you have any pictures of that edge? I have a few skills but making clean cuts with tin snips is not one of them haha. How much weight did you cut out by shortening it?

Here are a few more pics. The edge doesn’t come out pristine, but a little light file work removes all sharp edges. I’m not sure the exact weight savings in shortening the pot, but it allowed it to all fit inside the Mug and still have enough volume to boil for one person meals.

 

[35WhelenAI]

A pot worth looking at is the Fire Maple "Ramen Pot". 1L capacity even though it is listed at 800ml. Wider base than the G3, has cutouts for both a three-prong support and a four prong support on the heat exchanger bottom. Lid won't sit flush with a 230g canister (110g is an easy fit with the stove too) however efficiency with the wider bottom and heat exchanger looks to be really good. I use a Soto windmaster and much less than full power easily boils a half quart of water with a package of ramen in well under 2 minutes at my house at 7200' elevation. 1:47 to be more exact.

A few things I've noticed in the journey to arrive at a system that ticks the boxes for me...

1) Why manufacturers don't make a recessed burner head, such as a the Soto Windmaster and a few other highly rated stoves, is beyond me. More designs than not are so exposed as to be criminal. Without a windscreen they couldn't make Jiffy Pop in a slight breeze for a birthday party on a picnic table in the park surrounded by 8 kids blocking the wind (some creative license in that, however I hope the general point is understood).

2) The distance a pot sits above the burner head with respect to the pot support design, varies widely. With that, narrow pots short or tall, HX or not, need to be throttled back more than wider pots to avoid the flame going up around the sides which knocks off efficiency.

3) Empty canisters need to be packed out. 110g canisters weigh about 100g each for the canister, a single 230g is about 130g empty. 10 G more fuel on average with 70 G less canister weight that I'm packing out, works for me. And if I don't use the remaining amount of the 230 g canister, then it's a wash with less waste to throw in the trash when I return.

I'll be the first to admit just like my car, I have no desire to run it down to the end of a tank and finish on fumes, or come up short of my destination. I'll carry a bit of extra fuel above and beyond what I need and use it up on the trip for a rainy day, a few more cups of coffee, simmer up some back strap in the bottom of the pan if I tag out early and not worry about fuel to cook meals after hard days of packing out. Ymmv.

 

[doverpack12]

A pot worth looking at is the Fire Maple "Ramen Pot". 1L capacity even though it is listed at 800ml. Wider base than the G3, has cutouts for both a three-prong support and a four prong support on the heat exchanger bottom. Lid won't sit flush with a 230g canister (110g is an easy fit with the stove too) however efficiency with the wider bottom and heat exchanger looks to be really good. I use a Soto windmaster and much less than full power easily boils a half quart of water with a package of ramen in well under 2 minutes at my house at 7200' elevation. 1:47 to be more exact.

A few things I've noticed in the journey to arrive at a system that ticks the boxes for me...

1) Why manufacturers don't make a recessed burner head, such as a the Soto Windmaster and a few other highly rated stoves, is beyond me. More designs than not are so exposed as to be criminal. Without a windscreen they couldn't make Jiffy Pop in a slight breeze for a birthday party on a picnic table in the park surrounded by 8 kids blocking the wind (some creative license in that, however I hope the general point is understood)

2) The distance a pot sits above the burner head with respect to the pot support design, varies widely. With that, narrow pots short or tall, HX or not, need to be throttled back to avoid the flame going up around the sides which knocks off efficiency.

3) Empty canisters need to be packed out. 110g canisters weigh about 100g each for the canister, a single 230g is about 130g empty. 10 G more fuel on average with 70 G less canister weight that I'm packing out, works for me. And if I don't use the remaining amount of the 230 g canister, then it's a wash with less waste to throw in the trash when I return.

I'll be the first to admit just like my car, I have no desire to run it down to the end of a tank and finish on fumes, or come up short of my destination. I'll carry a bit of extra fuel above and beyond what I need and use it up on the trip for a rainy day, a few more cups of coffee, simmer up some back strap in the bottom of the pan if I tag out early and not worry about fuel to cook meals after hard days of packing out. Ymmv.

Interesting. I’m running the original Petrel/fire maple pot, jetboil zip cozy and lid with pocket rocket delux.

Do you know if the ramen pot lines up with a cozy cover that is readily available? I can see the wider base making a big difference. My normal pot has been awesome