Chronic BH Left of FP

[AlabamaMountainMan]

It might be oversimplifying, but with a hunting bow, you do not want to be under spined...or close to under spined. I know, I know- some pros tell us under spined is more forgiving. It's one of the rare cases I disagree with those pros. Those guys mostly shoot FP's and low pro short mech heads.

Consider; those pros are like machines; exact and consistent every time. A noodle arrow works in that case. But then put a BH on there that can plane out of the bow if its not perfectly aligned...or a hunt scenario where you might have less than perfect form and IMO, you want the stiffer arrow thats less likely to noodle in a different way.
I have always shot a spine size over...or slightly stiff and never had a bow that wouldn't shoot fixed BH's to the same POA as my FP's at 50y.


I can push arrows to the side by increasing face pressure- so yeah, it's a thing. You want to be anchored in the same place but no need to pull hard into your face vs straight back.

Cam Timing, it's when the cams roll over at the exact same time. Some bows shoot a little better with the top cam hitting the stop 1/16 early, or vice versa.

Shops can do it but I would offer to pay them for their time- which could take longer than you think. I have all of the stuff at home.

The good news is once you know the tuning process- it's much easier after that.

Yours could be as simple as you might have been moving the rest too much at one time.

It wound up being too much face pressure. When I reduced all face pressure my impacts shifted 4 inches to the right. Then when I moved my rest a little bit my BH and FP were grouping together. Was able to get my Matthews and Elite both hitting right.

 

[Mikido]

Simple solution, which I’ve done. Buy a second sight for your broad heads. 2 screws and it’s in

 

[Beendare]

It wound up being too much face pressure. When I reduced all face pressure my impacts shifted 4 inches to the right. Then when I moved my rest a little bit my BH and FP were grouping together. Was able to get my Matthews and Elite both hitting right.

Good on You for taking the time to dial it in.

The guys that never get BH's and FP's grouping at longer range are shooting a wobbly arrow- they just don't know it. If you look at some of the guys that use Mech heads instead of tuning and their shots on Youtube in super slo mo, you can see the arrow wobbling out of the bow on its way to the animal- especially if they are using lighted noks.

 

[AlabamaMountainMan]

Good on You for taking the time to dial it in.

The guys that never get BH's and FP's grouping at longer range are shooting a wobbly arrow- they just don't know it. If you look at some of the guys that use Mech heads instead of tuning and their shots on Youtube in super slo mo, you can see the arrow wobbling out of the bow on its way to the animal- especially if they are using lighted noks.

I know what you mean. I could literally see my arrows wobble all the way to the target when I shot past about 40 yards. They are flying much better now. I’ve realized that face pressure was causing other problems as well.

 

[Bump79]

Simple solution, which I’ve done. Buy a second sight for your broad heads. 2 screws and it’s in

I used to do something like that. I'd mark my sight for FP and BH back 10 years ago. Then I realized my broadheads are flying crooked at the animal.. bad idea

 

[Beendare]

I used to do something like that. I'd mark my sight for FP and BH back 10 years ago. Then I realized my broadheads are flying crooked at the animal.. bad idea

Exactly^

Edit for clarity; It's simple; if you can't get a BH to hit at the same POI as your FP's, that tells us the arrow is coming out of the bow slightly cockeyed and its wobbling in flight. Switching sights...or to Mech heads doesn't solve the wobble completely.

 

[PLhunter]

My issue is always always release hand and not grip. I struggle still but I wasted years focusing on grip when my release form was my tuning issues.