Kleos
Lil-Rokslider
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2021
- Messages
- 216
TELL ME YOUR WAYS?I also have a 21 tundra. Get decent mileage if I’m careful. Go back and forth on the lift/level
View attachment 395064
I drive like a grandma and cant get that.
TELL ME YOUR WAYS?I also have a 21 tundra. Get decent mileage if I’m careful. Go back and forth on the lift/level
View attachment 395064
TELL ME YOUR WAYS?
I drive like a grandma and cant get that.
I nerded out on that pretty hard for awhile, seeing how much better my gas mileage could be. Then I realized I was saving, like $350 a year vs. just driving naturally. I'll have to recalculate with today's gas prices and see if it's worth it again.Pretty simple. Put the instant fuel economy gauge in the center of the dashboard. Pay attention to it and it will teach you how Toyota designed the truck for optimum MPG. Basically it’s always keeping the RPMs as low as possible. Rolling on the throttle very slow and just slowly coming up to speed. Or lifting and coasting periodically on downhills.
And don’t use cruise control unless the road is flat. I find I can do much better than the machine. The last time I drove from Ketchum to Boise (165 miles) I got 21.1 MPG.
Keep in mind the 20.4 was for the latest 98-mile drive. With in-town driving added in its less. I filled up this morning and at 1/2 a tank I was at 17.5 MPG combined.
It’s not great, but I seem to be able to hit the higher estimates pretty easily.
I nerded out on that pretty hard for awhile, seeing how much better my gas mileage could be. Then I realized I was saving, like $350 a year vs. just driving naturally. I'll have to recalculate with today's gas prices and see if it's worth it again.
I'm kind of a grandpa driver too, except for top speeds on interstates where there is some real time to be made up.Understood.
I’ve driven like that pretty much my whole life so it’s actually my normal mode - much to my passengers’s chagrin. ;-)
I'm kind of a grandpa driver too, except for top speeds on interstates where there is some real time to be made up.
I figured out the same on my 21'. On top of being able to outdrive the cruise control, I hate the radar on it with a passionAnd don’t use cruise control unless the road is flat. I find I can do much better than the machine. The last time I drove from Ketchum to Boise (165 miles) I got 21.1 MPG.
Lift it, get icon suspensionLots of variables there. If you lift 2.5"+ and you go with a shock that doesn't have a reservoir, you can go all the way up to 285/75r18 or even 295s without rubbing and without having to do a BMC. There's some caveats there though. If you go 2.5"+ in lift height and stick with the factory wheel, you might not have enough clearance between your tire and UCA to run chains. If you lift over 2.5" it's also time to start thinking about changing to an aftermarket UCA. Not only is it usually the shock manufacturers recommendation, but it also allows more articulation depending on the shock. If the shock you choose has a reservoir, and the front shock has the reservoir mounted towards the front of the wheel well, you will likely rub on the reservoir with factory wheels. Only way around this is spacers or after market wheels with a lower offset. Factory offset is +60, most after markets are +25 or lower (about an inch difference).
If you don't lift, you can go up to a 275/70r18, but you might get a little rubbing on the wheel well liner and the little flap that's screwed into the wheel well in front of the tire. Just remove that little flap and take a heat gun and push where it's rubbing anywhere else, problem solved and you're gtg.
Also, unless you do some HD towing and really need to beef up the rear end for weight, I would use an aftermarket shackle that gives you lift height, not a block or add a leaf. Add a leaf will stiffen up your ride and make it harder for that shock to do its job. An aftermarket shackle is easier to install, cheaper, gives you more ride height, and reuses your factory leaf springs. Jack up the rear end and find a spot where your leaf springs relax a bit, remove factory shackle, ensure leaf spring lines up with holes in the frame, throw in aftermarket shackle. tighten to spec, job done. I use a 1.5" shackle and pull a 21 foot fiberglass boat around all summer and I do just fine. You could probably argue I'm a little light in the rear end, but in ND, the summers are short.
Bringing this thread back to life since I'm considering suspension upgrades to mine. What suspension did you install on this, and what was your MPG before and after? I have a grandpa foot and I'm averaging 17-18 in my '21 with mixed city/hwy.Here’s my old 2017 Tundra. Had 3” front, 1” rear, and 295/70/18. Gas mileage was virtually unchanged from stock.
View attachment 372663
I used the Low Range Offroad spacers in the front, and Toytec shackle in the rear. A lot of people will talk bad about the spacers, but the LRO ones instal on top of the stock coil plate, so they are not adding additional preload to the factory spring.Bringing this thread back to life since I'm considering suspension upgrades to mine. What suspension did you install on this, and what was your MPG before and after? I have a grandpa foot and I'm averaging 17-18 in my '21 with mixed city/hwy.