Packmansion
Lil-Rokslider
- Joined
- Sep 24, 2022
- Messages
- 256
Captain1018 said:I was answering about rechambering a factory barrel
Can a 7 rm get rebarreled to 7prc pretty easy?
Captain1018 said:I was answering about rechambering a factory barrel
My reading comprehension needs workCaptain1018 said:
Can a 7 rm get rebarreled to 7prc pretty easy?
You're good man I do that all the time. I just didn't want the guy asking to think rebarreling was more complicated than it is. I love popping barrels off Tikkas it's the cheapest custom action on the market lol.My reading comprehension needs work
Any findings on a particular way to source a 1:10in? Can sportsmans take an order for this specifically or do you have to just keep checking until you find one?This is a follow-up from my original comment about sourcing a Tikka T3X Superlite .300 WSM in 1:10 twist. Hopefully this sheds some light on the twists and turns (no pun intended) of sourcing this particular rifle.
^helpful. Thanks. I seem to have been getting conflicting information regarding this1.) call Beretta tech support (800 237 3882) with the serial number and they’ll take your email address and get back to you (it was within a day for me) with the twist info.
2.) Look on the barrel near the chamber for the stamped “1:10 twist” indicating that it is in fact a 24’ model 1:10 twist. The 23’ and prior models that are actually 1:11 twists DO NOT have “1:11” stamped on the barrel.
I’ve been told by Beretta tech support and Sportsman’s Warehouse that there is no way to special order a 1:10. But I’ve also been led to believe that these 1:10s will be hitting the shelves (and be able to be ordered) starting this fall. I would imagine a 24’ model 1:10 would be available by, say, October. So I think it’s safe to say that for the rest of 24’ (and especially come fall 24’) the best way is to call the stores and check availability. Or, order it by phone through your local big box store (SW), and once it arrives at that shop, verify it using the methods I mentioned. Then get a refund if need be. It can all be done over the phone and they’ll tie your money up for less than one week.Any findings on a particular way to source a 1:10in? Can sportsmans take an order for this specifically or do you have to just keep checking until you find one?
^helpful. Thanks. I seem to have been getting conflicting information regarding this
Bummer, wanting to get something sooner. I may go to 300 win mag instead since 1:10 looks to already be available. Unlikely I'd want to shoot anything with a longer COAL anyhow which was the primary reason I was considering the WSM1:10s will be hitting the shelves (and be able to be ordered) starting this fall. I would imagine a 24’ model 1:10 would be available by, say, October.
I'll preface this with saying I don't totally know what I'm talking about yet but will try to explain my thought process based on what I've read so far.What are you guys shooting that you want a 1:10? I had no problem getting the 200 eldx to stabilize in a 30/06 at 4500 asl and around 2700 fps
I'll preface this with saying I don't totally know what I'm talking about yet but will try to explain my thought process based on what I've read so far.
I haven't yet decided on ammo. I had read elsewhere that for heavier bullets, a 1:10 would be preferable in this cartridge, and considering that Tikka has moved to the 1:10 going forward, I figure they must have a reason (stability at longer range?). I'll likely shoot a 180gr anyhow, but I don't like the idea of limiting choices if that is the case.
I also read that some heavies in 300 wm are longer COAL then the t3x will take, so maybe going to 300 wm wouldn't gain much for choices 200gr+ anyhow. However, there does appear to be more options for wm than wsm in general, so to me it makes sense to go to the 300 wm regardless of twist rate.
This gun will primarily be used in CA so I'll need non lead, so not sure how that will impact things (maybe lighter so it won't matter) but thought it'd be good to keep options open when purchasing something. I previously only used a .243, .308 and 7mm my grandpa gave me and have never gotten into all this technical stuff, but I didn't bring those with me to CA because I didn't want to register them with the commies here lol so needing to buy a new gun so figured I'd try to educate myself a bit before doing so
I only anticipate being here for another 2 years or so, at which point I would likely change back to lead. I'm inferring from your qualifier about non-lead, that using lead would have a >0% of needing a 1:10?If your shooting non lead there 0% chance you’ll need a 1:10
If I were to go back to a smaller 30 call like a wsm or 30/06 I would be using a 190 eldm or 200 eldx. I bet it’d stabilize a 208 eldm which is as big as anyone would reasonably need to go. So the 1/11 would do everything good need. The 200 eldx in 30/06 did well last year from 275-500 on elkI only anticipate being here for another 2 years or so, at which point I would likely change back to lead. I'm inferring from your qualifier about non-lead, that using lead would have a >0% of needing a 1:10?
IncorrectIf your shooting non lead there 0% chance you’ll need a 1:10
I want to know more about this.Incorrect
Incorrect
I’m interested to hear anyone’s replies on this particular subject. I’m leaning towards using all copper bullets in a T3X .300 WSM 1:10… whenever these rifles hit the stores.Incorrect
The 1-10 will cover you for all lead bullets you'd shoot out of a 300wsm. In copper you can do some moderate BC stuff like the 175LRX and the 150-160gr range for the sleeker copper bullets. If you want to shoot the really high BC stuff in copper you'd need a faster twist, but most people would be stepping up to like a 300prc anyways if they're going to run those.I want to know more about this.
I’m interested to hear anyone’s replies on this particular subject. I’m leaning towards using all copper bullets in a T3X .300 WSM 1:10… whenever these rifles hit the stores.
On a side note, I did recently speak to a rep at a Sportsman’s Warehouse gun counter. He told me that SW is spending 20 million in early 25’, in order to put a large amount of new firearms on the shelves.
Get the 10 twist and you will be fine. Avoid the 11 twist. If you want to shoot high bc copper you will need to get a custom barrel with a 1:9 or even better 1:8. If you do not handload get the 300 wm. There is no major advantage to a 300 wsm unless you hand load. This all goes back to bullet stability. There is lots of misinformation about bullets stability. Generally the faster the twist the better unless you plan to shoot light for caliber bullets with thin jackets as the fast twist can cause the jacket to destruct from the forces like a centrifuge flinging the jacket apart. For reference 1:11 is slower than 1:10.I want to know more about this.
I’m interested to hear anyone’s replies on this particular subject. I’m leaning towards using all copper bullets in a T3X .300 WSM 1:10… whenever these rifles hit the stores.
On a side note, I did recently speak to a rep at a Sportsman’s Warehouse gun counter. He told me that SW is spending 20 million in early 25’, in order to put a large amount of new firearms on the shelves.
I have not yet. The 300 wsms i have seen do not have twist on them like the other calibers. I have started to consistently see other .30 cal rifles in 1:10 like 30-06 and 308.Has anyone seen a 300 WSM Tikka with a 10" twist yet? I was looking at the Cabelas exclusive D18 with the VSX camo stock which is essentially just Cabelas exclusive roughtech. I asked the question on Cabelas website and someone replied that all manufactured in 2024 should have a 10" twist and then the website description was quickly updated from 11" to 10".