Tikka updating 300 wsm twist rate- 1-10”

[Packmansion]

If you shoot factory ammo does it matter between 10:1 and 11:1?

Twist needs to be faster for longer bullets right? It has less to do with the mass (grain) and more to do with length and aspect ratio right?

It's bullet length. 1:11 is good just about anything up to 160 grains for copper and it's good up to about 200 with lead. It's right on the edge for heavier bullets. Weather and elevation will play a role for heavy for caliber 1:11 twist especially with lead. If you're a fair weather mountain hunter (6000 elevation+) 1:11 poses no issues for almost any bullet you could image. Arguably you want to go lighter for copper anyway. The 1:11 will absolutely work. If you're a perfectionist like myself get a 1:10. I only care to shoot heavy for caliber stuff in a WSM otherwise why not just shoot 7mm? I built a semi custom Tikka 300 WSM with a 1:8 twist. I think we will start seeing 30 cal magnums with 1:9 and 1:8 more regularly with the 300 PRC on the scene.

 

[Captain1018]

It's bullet length. 1:11 is good just about anything up to 160 grains for copper and it's good up to about 200 with lead. It's right on the edge for heavier bullets. Weather and elevation will play a role for heavy for caliber 1:11 twist especially with lead. If you're a fair weather mountain hunter (6000 elevation+) 1:11 poses no issues for almost any bullet you could image. Arguably you want to go lighter for copper anyway. The 1:11 will absolutely work. If you're a perfectionist like myself get a 1:10. I only care to shoot heavy for caliber stuff in a WSM otherwise why not just shoot 7mm? I built a semi custom Tikka 300 WSM with a 1:8 twist. I think we will start seeing 30 cal magnums with 1:9 and 1:8 more regularly with the 300 PRC on the scene.

If it were available I’d order a tikka in 7 PRC but that isn’t a thing.

300 WSM seems like the best option, although I am sure 7 mag and 300 WM are also a very good options Also.

Barnes loads the 300 WSM with 165 gr copper, ideally it would be 10:1 twist.

 

[Packmansion]

If it were available I’d order a tikka in 7 PRC but that isn’t a thing.

300 WSM seems like the best option, although I am sure 7 mag and 300 WM are also a very good options Also.

Barnes loads the 300 WSM with 165 gr copper, ideally it would be 10:1 twist.

For Barnes I'd go 168 ttsx. It expands at lower velocity. 168 ttsx is good for 1:11 under every imaginable condition so is 165. The 168 has a little more weight and higher bc. A lot of copper bullets are longer than Barnes and they tend to recommend 1:10 for 166 and above. With Barnes you can run up to 180 with a 1:11 according to them but you start to limit yourself at sea level in cold temps. If you do not reload get the 300 WM. Even if you do reload I might say get the 300 WM because if you don't have components for reloading you might be 6 months before you get primers. You can find them from time to time but for the most part they are way overpriced. I have a Tikka 300 WM it is 1:10 it is very accurate. Down the road rebarreling with a prefit is really easy. Honestly if I were you I'd get a Tikka 300 WM and save up for a custom 7 PRC barrel. You can swap the barrels at home. A 7prc barrel will cost you about $500-$1000. That will be the cheap part if you plan to reload. Reloading is very expensive but if you're a high volume shooter it pays off. Otherwise you're wasting money. Factory ammo today is absolutely stellar. Ammo makers also utilize commercial powders that we don't have access to. A big question to ask yourself is this, are you a hunter or gun nut. I'm a gun nut I have no issue spend piles of money on guns. If you're a hunter get whatever gun has readily available ammo and can take down your quarry. Buy a few different boxes test em out. Then buy 100 rounds of whatever shot best and probably never buy another box for 10 years lol. If you're shooting 1000 rounds a year then probably worth it to consider a long range hunting setup but most people can't shoot past 600 even under perfect conditions. If you're not burning out barrels you probably don't have much business or practical benefit engaging game past 3 or 400 yards. Every hundred yards past 600 is exponentially hard to make good first round hits under field conditions. Long range hunting is all the rage. I know very few people who are capable I know even fewer who have had the opportunity and skill to take a long shot on game. Currently I only know one who has actually done it and his hunting property is on a mesa that overlooks public land and he runs a 30-378 wb magnum. For us poor folk it's the thick timber.

 

[Andouille]

300 WSM is a great load for what you're looking to do. Whatever you buy save the brass and start shopping for magnum primers now.

Large rifle primers work great for me, and I think WSM doesn't require magnum primers, which is great news for reloaders. I'm reloading WSM with 175 LRX and 190 Speer Impact, GM210 primers and great velocities with no pressure signs. Shot 10 rounds with GM215 primers and 0.5gr reduced charge and didn't see a benefit.

WSM is a great match for suppressors and shorter barrels because the efficiency of the cartridge (less powder for nearly same speed) inherently means less recoil than 300wm, and the suppressor further reduces recoil to a reasonable level. I can almost spot shots with my wsm and banish backcountry and scope at 20x off sandbags. Will play with 10x zoom and bipod (more like hunting setup) soon.

 

[Packmansion]

Large rifle primers work great for me, and I think WSM doesn't require magnum primers, which is great news for reloaders. I'm reloading WSM with 175 LRX and 190 Speer Impact, GM210 primers and great velocities with no pressure signs. Shot 10 rounds with GM215 primers and 0.5gr reduced charge and didn't see a benefit.

WSM is a great match for suppressors and shorter barrels because the efficiency of the cartridge (less powder for nearly same speed) inherently means less recoil than 300wm, and the suppressor further reduces recoil to a reasonable level. I can almost spot shots with my wsm and banish backcountry and scope at 20x off sandbags. Will play with 10x zoom and bipod (more like hunting setup) soon.

I think anything under 90 grains is good with regular primers. Magnum is a bit of a pseudonym. 300 WM is not a true magnum it's just a maxed out standard length round. Rum is a real magnum.

 

[Liv2HntBigBullz]

Just got a T3x Stainless in 300wsm and it appears to be a 1-10” using the cleaning rod method as the barrel is not marked

And this barrel will be for sale soon, let me know if you want it.

Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk

 

[Packmansion]

I was just at Scheels and saw a 30-06 with a 10" twist. It won't be long. If you're patient it might pay off. If you don't reload I'd steer clear of the WSM. Before you get into reloading make sure you have the money. Your first 20 loads are going to cost you $1000+ depending on if you anneal and if you buy good brass etc. Its a fun hobby but for hunting factory ammo will do just fine.

 

[Captain1018]

Thank you for all the good words of wisdom.

I am truly a saltwater fisherman who also duck hunts and elk/deer hunts—I’m not shooting every available window of free time.

I am hoping I can hone my shooting skills to get out to 500 yards and I’d like to get the required accuracy with a copper bullet if I can. My thought was that I likely would need to work up a load for my gun to get accuracy with copper, but maybe there is acceptable copper factory ammo?

Most my hunting will be in the NW close to sea level but I will start making hunts to the Mountain West once I get to enough hunt points. The last four big game animals were close to home in NW Oregon at relatively short range, but if I have an elk or mule deer hunt in the Rockies I would like to have confidence I can shoot to 500.

My friends tell me buy a tikka in 300 wm or 7mm mag and be done with it. Prob more realistic, not sure I have time for the reloading hobby with all my other hobbies…

 

[Packmansion]

Thank you for all the good words of wisdom.

I am truly a saltwater fisherman who also duck hunts and elk/deer hunts—I’m not shooting every available window of free time.

I am hoping I can hone my shooting skills to get out to 500 yards and I’d like to get the required accuracy with a copper bullet if I can. My thought was that I likely would need to work up a load for my gun to get accuracy with copper, but maybe there is acceptable copper factory ammo?

Most my hunting will be in the NW close to sea level but I will start making hunts to the Mountain West once I get to enough hunt points. The last four big game animals were close to home in NW Oregon at relatively short range, but if I have an elk or mule deer hunt in the Rockies I would like to have confidence I can shoot to 500.

My friends tell me buy a tikka in 300 wm or 7mm mag and be done with it. Prob more realistic, not sure I have time for the reloading hobby with all my other hobbies…

Tikkas are light. A 300 WM kicks pretty good. Downside with a 7rm Tikka is they are currently 1:9.5 they are updating to 1:9. 7rm is great so is 300 WM. Tikka 300 WM is already a 1:10. If you don't mind recoil and you plan to use factory stuff the 300 WM will be plenty accurate out to 500 yards. If you are just hunting I'm not sure reloading is worth it. It's a fun hobby but do it because you enjoy not because you hunt. Copper isn't necessary for accuracy. Plenty of lead stuff plenty accurate for 500 yards. Once you start shooting long range you'll find 600 is not all that far especially with a 300 wm. When you are in the field though you'll have wind, sun in your face, uneven ground. Realistically most people have no business shooting much past 3 or 400 yards even with "practice". If you want to be able to shoot that far you need to practice in real conditions. Realistically you will not be able to spot your shots with a lightweight hunting rifle so you'll need to make the first shot count especially a 300 wm. If you have not I recommend you shoot one of your friends lightweight 300 WM.

 

[Captain1018]

For Barnes I'd go 168 ttsx. It expands at lower velocity. 168 ttsx is good for 1:11 under every imaginable condition so is 165. The 168 has a little more weight and higher bc. A lot of copper bullets are longer than Barnes and they tend to recommend 1:10 for 166 and above. With Barnes you can run up to 180 with a 1:11 according to them but you start to limit yourself at sea level in cold temps. If you do not reload get the 300 WM. Even if you do reload I might say get the 300 WM because if you don't have components for reloading you might be 6 months before you get primers. You can find them from time to time but for the most part they are way overpriced. I have a Tikka 300 WM it is 1:10 it is very accurate. Down the road rebarreling with a prefit is really easy. Honestly if I were you I'd get a Tikka 300 WM and save up for a custom 7 PRC barrel. You can swap the barrels at home. A 7prc barrel will cost you about $500-$1000. That will be the cheap part if you plan to reload. Reloading is very expensive but if you're a high volume shooter it pays off. Otherwise you're wasting money. Factory ammo today is absolutely stellar. Ammo makers also utilize commercial powders that we don't have access to. A big question to ask yourself is this, are you a hunter or gun nut. I'm a gun nut I have no issue spend piles of money on guns. If you're a hunter get whatever gun has readily available ammo and can take down your quarry. Buy a few different boxes test em out. Then buy 100 rounds of whatever shot best and probably never buy another box for 10 years lol. If you're shooting 1000 rounds a year then probably worth it to consider a long range hunting setup but most people can't shoot past 600 even under perfect conditions. If you're not burning out barrels you probably don't have much business or practical benefit engaging game past 3 or 400 yards. Every hundred yards past 600 is exponentially hard to make good first round hits under field conditions. Long range hunting is all the rage. I know very few people who are capable I know even fewer who have had the opportunity and skill to take a long shot on game. Currently I only know one who has actually done it and his hunting property is on a mesa that overlooks public land and he runs a 30-378 wb magnum. For us poor folk it's the thick timber.

Can a 7 rm get rebarreled to 7prc pretty easy?

 

[Packmansion]

Can a 7 rm get rebarreled to 7prc pretty easy?

Any magnum can get easily rebarreled to 7prc. It would not give you a substantial upgrade. 7prc is really designed around extreme long range much past anywhere you would practically hunt. Its basically an F class cartridge. It's slightly faster than a 7rm and it has a faster twist for heavier longer sleeker bullets. A good long term plan would be to buy a 7rm or 300 WM and enjoy it for many years then rebarrel it when the time is right. 7 PRC is still relatively new. If you wait 5 years ammo will be easier to come by and we'll likely see more loaded options. At the moment I do not believe there are any readily available 7PRC copper loads I could be wrong but you'll have a much easier time finding a copper 300 WM load.

 

[HighUintas]

Can a 7 rm get rebarreled to 7prc pretty easy?

Likely not if it's a factory barrel. Going 7rm to 7prc it would need set back and I've had a few smiths tell me there's not enough meet on the factory barrel to set them back.

If you want a bigger cal magnum without having to rebarrel and are going to reload without much need for cheap factory ammo availability, I'd get a 300wsm. The 1:10 vs 1:11 twist doesn't really matter unless you want to surpass the 210gr bullets that are really long. 300wsm is considered one of the most accurate magnums. You can reload for it without spending gobs of money on equipment. Lee dies and a good press like a heavy duty rcbs will make straight ammo. Throw in a decent dial caliper like Hornady's and their headspace comparator and you can make good, consistent ammo. Anneal with a torch just to prevent neck splitting every couple of reloads. No need to get a brass cleaner unless you like shiny stuff. Brush the inside of the neck, clean the carbon off the OD of the neck with steel wool or a gray or maroon 3m pad, roll the brass around in a Ziploc with a very small dab of Lee lube, and you're ready to size. I get no more than 0.002 runout on a loaded round using those procedures and gear and that's with using the Lee FL die as is. No need to use separate neck expanding steps etc. If you want to use a powder thrower, the Lee perfect powder measure is as cheap and functional as it gets. Mine will do an ES and SD for thirty rounds of h4350 of 0.060ish and 0.014ish, respectively. It will do a ball powder like staball 6.5 at ES 0.022 and SD 0.050. the Lyman digital pocket scale is also cheap and very functional, just slower.

Or find a good deal on a used Tikka and get a 7prc prefit to screw on.

 

[Andouille]

There are 175gr copper bullets from Hammer and Badlands that supposedly won't stabilize in a 1:11 twist. 175 badlands are stable for me at l 100yds in cold temps at sea level, but I haven't shot them any farther to see if they destabilize over longer ranges.

There's a fair but of WSM ammo available now from Federal and even Hornady Outfitter 180gr CX. Look on ammo seek or at Sportsman's. Wsm ain't dead, just less frequently in production. It's still viable for non reloaders who don't mind stocking up on ammo.

 

[Packmansion]

There are 175gr copper bullets from Hammer and Badlands that supposedly won't stabilize in a 1:11 twist. 175 badlands are stable for me at l 100yds in cold temps at sea level, but I haven't shot them any farther to see if they destabilize over longer ranges.

There's a fair but of WSM ammo available now from Federal and even Hornady Outfitter 180gr CX. Look on ammo seek or at Sportsman's. Wsm ain't dead, just less frequently in production. It's still viable for non reloaders who don't mind stocking up on ammo.

Just be prepared to pay more and have less options.

 

[Alpinedrifter]

It's bullet length. 1:11 is good just about anything up to 160 grains for copper and it's good up to about 200 with lead. It's right on the edge for heavier bullets. Weather and elevation will play a role for heavy for caliber 1:11 twist especially with lead. If you're a fair weather mountain hunter (6000 elevation+) 1:11 poses no issues for almost any bullet you could image. Arguably you want to go lighter for copper anyway. The 1:11 will absolutely work. If you're a perfectionist like myself get a 1:10. I only care to shoot heavy for caliber stuff in a WSM otherwise why not just shoot 7mm? I built a semi custom Tikka 300 WSM with a 1:8 twist. I think we will start seeing 30 cal magnums with 1:9 and 1:8 more regularly with the 300 PRC on the scene.

If I’m a mountain hunter at 6000-12000 feet elevation (CO) will the 1:10 twist .300 WSM still be a good choice for stabilizing just about all lead and copper bullets?

 

[Alpinedrifter]

Just checked with Beretta on the serial number of the Tikka T3X .300 WSM I ordered and it is in fact a 1:11 twist. The born on date was 11/1/23. Going to wait another couple mos and see if I can get a 24’ 1:10.

 

[wind gypsy]

If I’m a mountain hunter at 6000-12000 feet elevation (CO) will the 1:10 twist .300 WSM still be a good choice for stabilizing just about all lead and copper bullets?

Any lead bullet you'd want to shoot from a wsm, yes. There are probably some boutique heavy for caliber copper bullets that would require more twist but in that case their sleek lighter bullets are probably a good choice anyway.

 

[Packmansion]

Likely not if it's a factory barrel. Going 7rm to 7prc it would need set back and I've had a few smiths tell me there's not enough meet on the factory barrel to set them back.

If you want a bigger cal magnum without having to rebarrel and are going to reload without much need for cheap factory ammo availability, I'd get a 300wsm. The 1:10 vs 1:11 twist doesn't really matter unless you want to surpass the 210gr bullets that are really long. 300wsm is considered one of the most accurate magnums. You can reload for it without spending gobs of money on equipment. Lee dies and a good press like a heavy duty rcbs will make straight ammo. Throw in a decent dial caliper like Hornady's and their headspace comparator and you can make good, consistent ammo. Anneal with a torch just to prevent neck splitting every couple of reloads. No need to get a brass cleaner unless you like shiny stuff. Brush the inside of the neck, clean the carbon off the OD of the neck with steel wool or a gray or maroon 3m pad, roll the brass around in a Ziploc with a very small dab of Lee lube, and you're ready to size. I get no more than 0.002 runout on a loaded round using those procedures and gear and that's with using the Lee FL die as is. No need to use separate neck expanding steps etc. If you want to use a powder thrower, the Lee perfect powder measure is as cheap and functional as it gets. Mine will do an ES and SD for thirty rounds of h4350 of 0.060ish and 0.014ish, respectively. It will do a ball powder like staball 6.5 at ES 0.022 and SD 0.050. the Lyman digital pocket scale is also cheap and very functional, just slower.

Or find a good deal on a used Tikka and get a 7prc prefit to screw on.

If you rebarrel you dont need to setback anything. Just pop off the old barrel pop on the new one.

 

[Packmansion]

If I’m a mountain hunter at 6000-12000 feet elevation (CO) will the 1:10 twist .300 WSM still be a good choice for stabilizing just about all lead and copper bullets?

1:10 is pretty much standard. 300 WSM is very practical for ammo from 165 to 220 grains. Most factory stuff is 165 to 180. If you reload you can make Berger 215s which I have heard is some good elk medicine. People shoot the 215 with 1:10. 1:9 would probably be "better". I would not hesitate to buy a 1:10 twist 300 WSM. However I'm building a custom 300 WSM with a 1:8 twist. I plan to predominantly shoot either 175 grain copper or 215 grain lead soooo it doesn't hurt to twist it fast. It's not done yet so we'll see how it performs. Faster twist gets you a higher bc and you typically only lose a couple fps much less than what people say on the interwebs.

 

[HighUintas]

If you rebarrel you dont need to setback anything. Just pop off the old barrel pop on the new one.

I was answering about rechambering a factory barrel