Likely not if it's a factory barrel. Going 7rm to 7prc it would need set back and I've had a few smiths tell me there's not enough meet on the factory barrel to set them back.
If you want a bigger cal magnum without having to rebarrel and are going to reload without much need for cheap factory ammo availability, I'd get a 300wsm. The 1:10 vs 1:11 twist doesn't really matter unless you want to surpass the 210gr bullets that are really long. 300wsm is considered one of the most accurate magnums. You can reload for it without spending gobs of money on equipment. Lee dies and a good press like a heavy duty rcbs will make straight ammo. Throw in a decent dial caliper like Hornady's and their headspace comparator and you can make good, consistent ammo. Anneal with a torch just to prevent neck splitting every couple of reloads. No need to get a brass cleaner unless you like shiny stuff. Brush the inside of the neck, clean the carbon off the OD of the neck with steel wool or a gray or maroon 3m pad, roll the brass around in a Ziploc with a very small dab of Lee lube, and you're ready to size. I get no more than 0.002 runout on a loaded round using those procedures and gear and that's with using the Lee FL die as is. No need to use separate neck expanding steps etc. If you want to use a powder thrower, the Lee perfect powder measure is as cheap and functional as it gets. Mine will do an ES and SD for thirty rounds of h4350 of 0.060ish and 0.014ish, respectively. It will do a ball powder like staball 6.5 at ES 0.022 and SD 0.050. the Lyman digital pocket scale is also cheap and very functional, just slower.
Or find a good deal on a used Tikka and get a 7prc prefit to screw on.
