Tikka T3 Super Lite 7mm Rem Mag Mountain Rifle

[Clarktar]

I have yet to get behind a Tikka build, but given Justins results and others that I have come across, I drank the Tikka kool-aid and looked for a Tikka to use as a donor for quite sometime.

I found one, and am now in the process of outlining my build, with tons of help from Rokslide members and other people. Hard to learn all the shit one needs to know. I feel like I need a few good basic books on 1)shooting, 2)ballistics, 3) barrels/actions/ bolts etc... so I can better understand the interplay between twist rates, bolt faces, chamber sizes etc etc etc....

 

[edg1967]

If anyone doubts the potential of these guns here is some proof of what they are capable of doing. Mine is a Tikka T3 Lite in 7mm Rem Mag that I bought almost two years ago. It sat in my safe unused until this summer when I threw a scope on it and took it to the range to dial it in with some factory rounds. I was less than impressed with the results, but still got a 1" group with some crappy Remington Core Loks. I screwed it into a B&C Medalist, worked up some loads a few weeks ago and took it to the range this last weekend. This is the third group I shot. The first groups were .505" then .519"(with a flyer do to shooter error) and this. I'm going to heat it up a grain or two more and see what happens, but basically this is about all I'm capable of as a shooter with 48 year old eyes.

 

[norsepeak]

Edg1967,

Did you do a proper barrel break-in on your Tikka? I have found that doing a proper break-in on any barrel has been well worth the effort especially on my Tikka. Once I broke mine in, I then worked up a good load and it now rings steel well under MOA at 800+ yards. Couldn't be happier with mine especially for the price.

 

[Brock A]

Edg1967,

Did you do a proper barrel break-in on your Tikka? I have found that doing a proper break-in on any barrel has been well worth the effort especially on my Tikka. Once I broke mine in, I then worked up a good load and it now rings steel well under MOA at 800+ yards. Couldn't be happier with mine especially for the price.

I will agree with you, Norse. All the sudden after about 40 or so shots it started grouping really well. It was like a light switch.

 

[mt100gr.]

Edg1967,

Did you do a proper barrel break-in on your Tikka? I have found that doing a proper break-in on any barrel has been well worth the effort especially on my Tikka. Once I broke mine in, I then worked up a good load and it now rings steel well under MOA at 800+ yards. Couldn't be happier with mine especially for the price.

So, the million dollar question: what is the proper break in for a Tikka. I read what Brock did and have heard many different methods. What did you do? And anyone else who may have a tried and true order of operations. Thanks.

 

[edg1967]

Edg1967,

Did you do a proper barrel break-in on your Tikka? I have found that doing a proper break-in on any barrel has been well worth the effort especially on my Tikka. Once I broke mine in, I then worked up a good load and it now rings steel well under MOA at 800+ yards. Couldn't be happier with mine especially for the price.

I cleaned after each round for the first five, then after each three shot group for the first four or five. Now I'm cleaning about every 12-15 rounds. It's the same procedure I've been using for 25 years with good success. I am limited to 100 yards in an indoor, underground range, but am looking forward to see what it will do at longer ranges in the spring.

 

[mt100gr.]

Brock, just out of curiosity, how is the paint job holding up after some hunts and more shooting?

 

[Brock A]

Brock, just out of curiosity, how is the paint job holding up after some hunts and more shooting?

Ya know I was just thinking about this. I never clear coated it and if has held up great except for one spot that rubbed a buckle on my backpack when carrying it in the gun bearer.

 

[mt100gr.]

Nice. Good to hear.

 

[GKPrice]

I have a non cartridge question to ask opinions on - Mountain Tactical has an aftermarket trigger for the T3 and it does not lock the bolt when in battery - I have developed somewhat of an attitude about rifle designs that require going off safe to unload but I really have never liked carrying a loaded rifle (if chambering one is needed) when the bolt can come open - I like model 70 safeties the best but the "Forbes" style is nice too (like the new Vanguards) Am I overthinking this in anyones' view ? Thanks

 

[mt100gr.]

Well, I picked one up today...pretty excited to start setting things up. Thanks for all the info along the way guys. Sure to be some questions to follow.

 

[gulicemo]

Check out the Yo Dave trigger spring. It's an easy adjustment that made my T3 trigger bench rest quality IMO

 

[edg1967]

I found myself with a little time to kill and decided to do a faux Kuiu Vias finish on my T3 stock...hope I don't get sued over copyright infringement in the process. One reason I went with the B&C stock is that I didn't like the hollow plastic sound of the Tikka stock. Has anyone tried to shoot a little spray foam in one of these to deaden the sound? It might add a little weight but maybe it wouldn't sound so cheap. I might give it a try.

 

[mt100gr.]

Are you guys finding that with a rail (20 moa), a 50mm scope will fit in medium height rings over these rifles? Thanks.

 

[Brock A]

Are you guys finding that with a rail (20 moa), a 50mm scope will fit in medium height rings over these rifles? Thanks.

Worked great on mine.

 

[colonel00]

Are you guys finding that with a rail (20 moa), a 50mm scope will fit in medium height rings over these rifles? Thanks.

I ordered Talley lows per this thread as I plan to probably have the same scope.

http://www.rokslide.com/forums/showthread.php?18066-Semi-Custom-Tikka-T3-Superlite

 

[mt100gr.]

I'm planning to get the vortex rings and probably the Viper HSLR. My rail and other goodies from Mtn Tactical should be here any day.

 

[mt100gr.]

And thanks for the quick feedback, too.

 

[mt100gr.]

Also, has anyone found what you would consider a sweet spot for torquing down rails, rings, etc?? How about the action machine-screws when putting it back together? Or are manufacturers specs pretty spot on?

 

[Robert Wheelock]

Brock I have a question for you. Any idea what the threads are? Trying to decide if I can mate my TI Suppressor on a tikka ultralight. I've been told I really need 9/16 threads to make it work.