Tikka "Rokslide Special", let's see 'em

[fwafwow]

Here’s where mine is:

I moved mine up a bit to a similar location as yours (see pic), but I will need to see if that hampers ejections. Even that small of a change lets me see it better. Thanks!

 

[Formidilosus]

Not on the 'Slide (that I've seen) but on the 'Hide. Frank doesn't like them, in general (but has a couple he suggests for folks who really want them; I think his oft-repeated phrase was something along the lines of 'They're a training aid, not a shooting tool'). Some examples on the Hide of how small bubble levels are often not accurate, and some maths about why it doesn't really matter. But @Formidilosus has a couple of pics here with an Accuracy First bead level; would be interesting to hear his thoughts ...

My experience is that people who say a level isn’t needed shoot on level ranges. That people’s perception of level gets greatly skewed in broken, steep terrain is easily shown in a few minutes. I watch dozens to hundreds of shooters in mountainous terrain shooting and all of them at some point miss shots due to it.

 

[Smenning]

20” and yes 108 eld’s, with varget they’re going right at 2700. Had high hopes for xbr but I hit pressure well below book max.

I’m dreaming up build almost identical can’t decide between 6 ARC, Creed or XC. Saving a picture of yours as a template though!

 

[Mike Islander]

.223. Cut to 18" and dual threaded plus flange to seat a Hyperion. Vertical grip. SWFA SS HD 3-9x42. UM scope rings, plus UM blue level.

I put my UM level way up front. Open both eyes to get level. Level is clear and easy to see when behind the scope.

 

[dguns18]

Tikka T3X .308
KRG Bravo
SWFA 3-15 in Sportsmatch rings (with a liberal application of paint pen).

 

[thinhorn_AK]

.223. Cut to 18" and dual threaded plus flange to seat a Hyperion. Vertical grip. SWFA SS HD 3-9x42. UM scope rings, plus UM blue level.

I put my UM level way up front. Open both eyes to get level. Level is clear and easy to see when behind the scope.
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Who did the work on your barrel?

 

[Mike Islander]

Who did the work on your barrel?

Who can thread my Tikka T3X Lite 223 for a suppressor (Hyperion)?

This is very helpful. Do you mind sharing your GS? The last tikka was done by kampfeld but i've sent bare actions purchased online directly to 3 other smiths as well. Any gunsmith that will thread should be an FFL that can receive your rifle and do the work before you ever see it.

rokslide.com

 

[robtattoo]

My updated Swede.....


Absolutely nothing fancy. I removed the original wood stock & sat it in a stock, stock (a stockier stock? Stockest stocky stock???)
Installed the vert grip, TO84s, SWFA 6x, 5 banger factory mag & SAP 'oh shit' extras.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

L

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Who can thread my Tikka T3X Lite 223 for a suppressor (Hyperion)?

This is very helpful. Do you mind sharing your GS? The last tikka was done by kampfeld but i've sent bare actions purchased online directly to 3 other smiths as well. Any gunsmith that will thread should be an FFL that can receive your rifle and do the work before you ever see it.

rokslide.com

It looks nice, I have a few rifles I need to get cut and threaded and Shaen isn’t taking work right now so I’ll give kampfield a call.

 

[Juan_ID]

I’m dreaming up build almost identical can’t decide between 6 ARC, Creed or XC. Saving a picture of yours as a template though!

I personally really like it. Could definitely get a faster 6mm but I wanted something different. Had hopes of 2750fps out of the 20” but as it is it’s still above 1800fps out to about 680 which is plenty far for my purposes. I don’t think you can go wrong with any of your choices. Maybe toss the dasher in there too

 

[fwafwow]

.223. Cut to 18" and dual threaded plus flange to seat a Hyperion. Vertical grip. SWFA SS HD 3-9x42. UM scope rings, plus UM blue level.

I put my UM level way up front. Open both eyes to get level. Level is clear and easy to see when behind the scope.
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I’m headed to the range tomorrow and this post reminded me to take my torque wrench to try out a position further forward. Thanks.

The rifle setup is cool, but also the pictures are well done.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

Am I the only one who mounted the screws opposite of bolt side on the new UM ring bases? Seemed to make the most sense to me for limiting any potential interference or issues with it being on the action side (not likely). Maybe I’m backwards as usual haha.

 

[NSI]

Am I the only one who mounted the screws opposite of bolt side on the new UM ring bases? Seemed to make the most sense to me for limiting any potential interference or issues with it being on the action side (not likely). Maybe I’m backwards as usual haha.

I did the same, and immediately realized the issue with seeing the level since my back scope ring was smack on the end of the action. Either need to leave room for it behind the ring or mount in front but flip the screws to the bolt side.

Has anyone had issues cycling with screws protruding over the ejection port?

-J

 

[fwafwow]

Am I the only one who mounted the screws opposite of bolt side on the new UM ring bases? Seemed to make the most sense to me for limiting any potential interference or issues with it being on the action side (not likely). Maybe I’m backwards as usual haha.

I had the same thought about that - after I mounted it, after having seen the demo video. I am right handed, and tend to point the barrel to my right when working on it. So that side was exposed and easiest to get to. I may switch it next time I tinker with the 6x - which will be soon to get the eye relief a bit better and change what might be a slight cant.

@NSI - I will head to the range tomorrow and report back on the new location of the level - but it's pretty far back.

 

[Mike Islander]

I’m headed to the range tomorrow and this post reminded me to take my torque wrench to try out a position further forward. Thanks.

The rifle setup is cool, but also the pictures are well done.

Yes, I blindly torqued the level to the same as the rings, stripped! Stopped as soon as I felt it start to give. It's still tight enough to stay on, but just a reminder that it torques to 15 inch pounds, not 45.

Must happen a lot, as UM now has the level torque spec posted in bold at the top of the ring torque instructions.

 

[Mike Islander]

Am I the only one who mounted the screws opposite of bolt side on the new UM ring bases? Seemed to make the most sense to me for limiting any potential interference or issues with it being on the action side (not likely). Maybe I’m backwards as usual haha.

Did it, then moved them back onto the right side so I could see my level. Absolutely no issues on my 223.

 

[Smenning]

I personally really like it. Could definitely get a faster 6mm but I wanted something different. Had hopes of 2750fps out of the 20” but as it is it’s still above 1800fps out to about 680 which is plenty far for my purposes. I don’t think you can go wrong with any of your choices. Maybe toss the dasher in there too

680 is a long ways…. I bet it is super fun to shoot as well.

 

[amassi]

Am I the only one who mounted the screws opposite of bolt side on the new UM ring bases? Seemed to make the most sense to me for limiting any potential interference or issues with it being on the action side (not likely). Maybe I’m backwards as usual haha.

Nope
I always put bolts & screws opposite of the bolt


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[fwafwow]

I did the same, and immediately realized the issue with seeing the level since my back scope ring was smack on the end of the action. Either need to leave room for it behind the ring or mount in front but flip the screws to the bolt side.

Has anyone had issues cycling with screws protruding over the ejection port?

-J

I had no problems with the cycling today even though the screw for the level is protruding over the ejection port. But it's still pretty far back.

 

[fwafwow]

Yes, I blindly torqued the level to the same as the rings, stripped! Stopped as soon as I felt it start to give. It's still tight enough to stay on, but just a reminder that it torques to 15 inch pounds, not 45.

Must happen a lot, as UM now has the level torque spec posted in bold at the top of the ring torque instructions.

For some unknown reason I only did finger tight with my level before seeing the video and checking the torque specs. Moving my level up to just in front of the rear base was enough for me, and having it on the left side was perfect since that's the side corrected with monovision. It also helped to have lots more light.