Tikka Nitriding

I've read that you want the barrel to be squeaky clean before nitride, any thing left in the barrel becomes near permanent. This is just what I've read/been told. I'm getting a pair of 20in 6cm and 65cm nitride once my smith cuts em. Plan is to run 20 rounds down em to knock off any burrs or imperfections in the bore, clean them to new appearance, and then send for coating.
 
Has anyone on here shot a nitrided barrel yet? I see references on other forums but can't recall if folks here sending out tikka barrels (minimal folks so far) have got them back and shot them yet.

Also naïve question, how are blued barrels/receivers handled in terms of prep before nitriding since they already have a surface finish on them?
 
Has anyone on here shot a nitrided barrel yet? I see references on other forums but can't recall if folks here sending out tikka barrels (minimal folks so far) have got them back and shot them yet.

Lots and lots.


Also naïve question, how are blued barrels/receivers handled in terms of prep before nitriding since they already have a surface finish on them?

Clean them well, send them in.
 
Lots and lots.




Clean them well, send them in.
To clarify I meant something like a tikka barrel being sent in and nitrided, not AR barrels that were manufactured that way. Maybe that doesn't change your reply but lots and lots made me assume you were probably referring to AR barrels.

If tikka barrels, all roses or hit/miss?


I was asking just from a nerd perspective if someone happened to know what they actually did at the nitride place. Do they just nitride them with the parkerization on them or do they blast them first, etc. type question.
 
Has anyone on here shot a nitrided barrel yet? I see references on other forums but can't recall if folks here sending out tikka barrels (minimal folks so far) have got them back and shot them yet.

Also naïve question, how are blued barrels/receivers handled in terms of prep before nitriding since they already have a surface finish on them?
My 22 creedmoor barrel was treated and started as a bead blasted stainless prefit.

I'm sending in a blued factory barrel in my next batch.

I have before and after pics of blued action nitrided in this thread. I just sent it in and it came back nitrided with no red dot on it.
 
To clarify I meant something like a tikka barrel being sent in and nitrided, not AR barrels that were manufactured that way. Maybe that doesn't change your reply but lots and lots made me assume you were probably referring to AR barrels.

Bolt action barrels. Probably 15 or so that were Tikka’s.


If tikka barrels, all roses or hit/miss?


I haven’t seen one that didn’t shoot the same as when it was sent in. I think all barrels and action that are not deep blued should be nitrided.


I was asking just from a nerd perspective if someone happened to know what they actually did at the nitride place. Do they just nitride them with the parkerization on them or do they blast them first, etc. type question.

I believe they dunk them as sent in.
 
Yes sir it was. Corrected- thank you.

I meant that- in my view, any barrel or action that isn’t getting deep blueing, should be nitrided. In other words- it should be the standard- not blued and not stainless.
I agree with this for blue actions. I have seen brittleness introduced into lugs that resulted in failure, so I no longer nitride stainless actions, stainless bolts, or other stainless parts. Because of my belief in the superiority of nitride, all I buy are blued tikkas for our shop. I DLC coat the bolts instead. Incidentally this is the process that Falkor uses, and it does have a material impact on smoothness/binding as a side effect.

-J
 
I agree with this for blue actions. I have seen brittleness introduced into lugs that resulted in failure, so I no longer nitride stainless actions, stainless bolts, or other stainless parts. Because of my belief in the superiority of nitride, all I buy are blued tikkas for our shop. I DLC coat the bolts instead. Incidentally this is the process that Falkor uses, and it does have a material impact on smoothness/binding as a side effect.

-J
You have seen issues with Tikka bolt lugs after sending to H&M black nitride?
 
Here's a picture of my UM nitrided bolt. Lots of wear for something that supposedly doesn't wear. Wiped it for the pic - always run the red tacky bolt lube on the lugs...

NitrideAction.jpg
 
If the color is wearing, the surface material is wearing. This is consistent with the research papers I posted earlier stating that nitrided metals still wear down, albeit at a potentially slower rate.

I don't think nitride is magic.
 
If the color is wearing, the surface material is wearing. This is consistent with the research papers I posted earlier stating that nitrided metals still wear down, albeit at a potentially slower rate.

I don't think nitride is magic.

You can read all the papers you want- you aren’t wearing through the nitride layer in a bolt action with normal use.

Beyond that, that does not look like nitride. The chipping around the extractor pin hole, and the lug wear all look like Ceracoat.
 
You can read all the papers you want- you aren’t wearing through the nitride layer in a bolt action with normal use.

Beyond that, that does not look like nitride. The chipping around the extractor pin hole, and the lug wear all look like Ceracoat.
Well Dr. Form, please provide your material science analysis, bro.

Are you saying that UM ceracoated this bolt instead of sending off for nitride?
 
Well Dr. Form, please provide your material science analysis, bro.

Are you saying that UM ceracoated this bolt instead of sending off for nitride?
See if you can chip it in other places, proper nitride won’t chip, if it does then professor form is correct, looks like micro slick to me also from the pics.
IMG_3776.jpeg
 
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