Tikka Barrel Removal and Install Tool Swap Thread

Not sure if this is best place to
Put it. Hoping one of you guys who has done this a lot can help.
I have a tikka CTR blued model from 2018, which still has the original factory barrel install. The barrel is being **uncooperative** to get off. Its in a barrel vise and is NOT slipping. Its bolted to a 300+lb worktable 8’ long with 2x6 framing and 3/4” plywood surface. Using an outside action wrench, action/barrel joint has been soaking in liquid wrench for a week. It will not budge even with solid whacks from a hammer. I’ve removed 6 or 8 tikka barrels before so this isnt my first, but its the first that has really given me a problem.

Any tips? @hereinaz or others.


View attachment 1003500
Action wrench too tight?

Move action wrench back closer towards ejection port?

Just sitting in a tire shop throwing some ideas out...
 
Action wrench is maybe 1/4 turn past finger tight. Zero wiggle, but not tight enough to bind the threads inside the action. I did already try it once with pressure on the inside wrench at the same time.
 
Not sure if this is best place to
Put it. Hoping one of you guys who has done this a lot can help.
I have a tikka CTR blued model from 2018, which still has the original factory barrel install. The barrel is being **uncooperative** to get off. Its in a barrel vise and is NOT slipping. Its bolted to a 300+lb worktable 8’ long with 2x6 framing and 3/4” plywood surface. Using an outside action wrench, action/barrel joint has been soaking in liquid wrench for a week. It will not budge even with solid whacks from a hammer. I’ve removed 6 or 8 tikka barrels before so this isnt my first, but its the first that has really given me a problem.

Any tips? @hereinaz or others.


View attachment 1003500
Did this one get a soak with good penetrating oil? I had a T3 of similar age put up a good fight, too. Is the barrel slipping in the vise, or just nothing will move?
 
Action wrench is maybe 1/4 turn past finger tight. Zero wiggle, but not tight enough to bind the threads inside the action. I did already try it once with pressure on the inside wrench at the same time.
I always put the external wrench just past where I think the barrel threads are. Idk if that matters or not?
 
Not sure if this is best place to
Put it. Hoping one of you guys who has done this a lot can help.
I have a tikka CTR blued model from 2018, which still has the original factory barrel install. The barrel is being **uncooperative** to get off. Its in a barrel vise and is NOT slipping. Its bolted to a 300+lb worktable 8’ long with 2x6 framing and 3/4” plywood surface. Using an outside action wrench, action/barrel joint has been soaking in liquid wrench for a week. It will not budge even with solid whacks from a hammer. I’ve removed 6 or 8 tikka barrels before so this isnt my first, but its the first that has really given me a problem.

Any tips? @hereinaz or others.


View attachment 1003500

Put it in the freezer overnight, then get it back in the vice, and hit the action over the tenon with a propane torch for a couple seconds. Resume the whacks with a hammer. Don’t be afraid of a bigger hammer. I’ve yet to come across one that won’t pop off with that system.


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I suggest the same as wyosam. I struggled getting mine off and when I used the freezer/torch method, it popped right off with a whack or two. Almost too easy.
 
Yeah, mt100gr, nothing is moving, barrel is solid in vise, its just not loosening.

I’ll try cold and then warming it up a bit, and shifting the wrench past the tenon threads a little. I’d rather sacrifice the barrel than heat the action too much though. Seen some scary torch discoloration that has to have changed the temper, etc and dont want to go there.

Have to make some room in the freezer! 😆
 
If it's not moving, apply more pressure and harder whacks with a sledge. The quick hard whack on the external wrench used to break even the tightest T3 barrels. Fwiw, I used to soak every T3 barrel from inside the chamber for atleast a week. Those were considerably tighter than any T3x I have experienced.
 
If it's not moving, apply more pressure and harder whacks with a sledge. The quick hard whack on the external wrench used to break even the tightest T3 barrels. Fwiw, I used to soak every T3 barrel from inside the chamber for atleast a week. Those were considerably tighter than any T3x I have experienced.

Yep, the T3’s were a different beast for sure. I broke down a new donor yesterday and it seems they just keep getting easier. The last couple I’ve done have been about a two tap affair.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Not sure if this is best place to
Put it. Hoping one of you guys who has done this a lot can help.
I have a tikka CTR blued model from 2018, which still has the original factory barrel install. The barrel is being **uncooperative** to get off. Its in a barrel vise and is NOT slipping. Its bolted to a 300+lb worktable 8’ long with 2x6 framing and 3/4” plywood surface. Using an outside action wrench, action/barrel joint has been soaking in liquid wrench for a week. It will not budge even with solid whacks from a hammer. I’ve removed 6 or 8 tikka barrels before so this isnt my first, but its the first that has really given me a problem.

Any tips? @hereinaz or others.


View attachment 1003500
Relief cut on the barrel is a sure bet if you're out of options. I had a T3 that I cranked, heated/chilled, and beat on for hours to no avail. Once I made the relief cut it came off lickety split with relatively little effort.
 
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