Tikka Barrel Removal and Install Tool Swap Thread

[Hydra6]

Not true, Tikka does not offer short barrels that are popular. They get chopped and threaded. And, not everyone has converted to suppressors or can own them.

Used barrels might not sell, true. I just sold two barrels before they even got delivered to me from donor rifles.

T3 300WM pencil barrel?

 

[hereinaz]

T3 300WM pencil barrel?

For anyone looking, PM me. I can add you to a list and I will reach out when I am buying rifles to see if you want it.

 

[Andouille]

I have some extra 1/16" lead sheet remaining after my barrel removal. Happy to cut and ship a 2×4" piece for $5, or a 3x4" piece for $7- obviously a small & heavy package. Pm me if interested.

Also, ive had great luck removing barrels using both the internal amd external wrenches at the same time. Apply pressure on the internal wrench with your foot in a strap, then tap the external wrench with a 2-3lb hammer. Surprisingly easy on a newer Roughtech. Lead wrap Protected the cerakote finish.

 

[waspocrew]

For some newbies, here is a quick video. The right tools and knowledge make it easy to remove factory barrels.

Drywall tape.
Strong barrel vice with custom insert. Tightened absurdly tight.
Outside action wrench. Tightened finger tight plus a smidge.

It all comes together with a good smack with a heavy hammer to impart a solid shock. One will break it, and the second will spin it.

Cheater bars only create problems.

Was this the SAC Tikka bushing? I bought the Bravo kit, but didn't realize the Tikka specific bushing was an add on.... currently waiting for the bushing to arrive. No dice with the other bushings that came in the kit. Still spinning in the vise despite really cranking down on it. Hoping the Tikka bushing is the ticket.

 

[hereinaz]

Was this the SAC Tikka bushing? I bought the Bravo kit, but didn't realize the Tikka specific bushing was an add on.... currently waiting for the bushing to arrive. No dice with the other bushings that came in the kit. Still spinning in the vise despite really cranking down on it. Hoping the Tikka bushing is the ticket.

It is the Tikka bushing.

Another of the keys is to also have a bombproof mount for the vice. If it is on a wiggly table, too much of the initial shock is muted.

I removed another batch of barrels, and only one spun cause I didn’t crank down enough.

 

[Speaks]

For some newbies, here is a quick video. The right tools and knowledge make it easy to remove factory barrels.

Drywall tape.
Strong barrel vice with custom insert. Tightened absurdly tight.
Outside action wrench. Tightened finger tight plus a smidge.

It all comes together with a good smack with a heavy hammer to impart a solid shock. One will break it, and the second will spin it.

Cheater bars only create problems.

Just out of curiosity what kind of problems to cheater bars cause?

 

[hereinaz]

Just out of curiosity what kind of problems to cheater bars cause?

They apply pressure in a different way, and it seemed the force needed to overcome the initial torque with a cheater bar I think creeps up to that the force in a slower way. When I used cheater bars, the barrel would slip more and the action wrench would mar the action more often. It may have been the pipe I used was not long enough.

Since switching to a heavy hammer, two sharp smacks has broken loose practically every barrel. Sometimes three smack.

One smith I know uses a shop press and with that it puts more clamping pressure than bolts on a vice. He used a cheater bar the couple of times I saw him. Not saying it doesn’t work, but the hammer works every time for me with less drama it seems.

 

[Pinchecharlie]

If it SPINS ANY BiT AT ALL will it mar the barrel. I have two to do and iam apprehensive lol. I also saw a video by a popular gunsmith that claimed even it’d you why them off he thinks it twists the action and they are not true anymore? He says it only with cut them off? Not me just a video I sae