Tikka Barrel Removal and Install Tool Swap Thread

[Bluumoon]

Most are, yes. Some have snapped the internal ones trying to remove actions with them the first time. Subsequent barrels I'd be inclined to try the internal first and if stubborn switch to the external. Internal to install allows for easy use of a torque wrench.

I wouldn’t… snapped a OMR internal wrench on a torque wrench set at 115ft/lbs. OMR said tough luck.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

I wouldn’t… snapped a OMR internal wrench on a torque wrench set at 115ft/lbs. OMR said tough luck.

I wouldn't personally try to exceed 100ftlb with one, if it doesn't budge switch to the external.

 

[Nine Banger]

I wouldn’t… snapped a OMR internal wrench on a torque wrench set at 115ft/lbs. OMR said tough luck.

You figure they would work with you when you told them it was on a torque wrench and not a breaker bar.

They are telling everyone to buy theirs over others because it is so strong.

I think your rationale was sound to work up to 115 and see what happens and then order a Wheeler #1 only if you had to.

I have the same internal wrench but got the wheeler right off the rip and got longer bolts to flip it around. We've removed 5 factory tikka barrels so far and had to wail and whack on 2 of them.

 

[Bluumoon]

You figure they would work with you when you told them it was on a torque wrench and not a breaker bar.

They are telling everyone to buy theirs over others because it is so strong.

I think your rationale was sound to work up to 115 and see what happens and then order a Wheeler #1 only if you had to.

I have the same internal wrench but got the wheeler right off the rip and got longer bolts to flip it around. We've removed 5 factory tikka barrels so far and had to wail and whack on 2 of them.

View attachment 977140

Seemed reasonable to me. Was not a factory barrel. Came off easily w external wrench.

 

[Nine Banger]

Seemed reasonable to me. Was not a factory barrel. Came off easily w external wrench.

PVA lists criteria recommending to torque pre-fits 70-75 lbs. for 223, standard and magnum sized case heads.
(They recommend no more than 100lbs for 338 Lapua sized case head.)

Something I'm pondering:

If you torque their barrels higher than 75lbs, say 80 or 90 lbs., are you making the chamber smaller than it would be at 70-75lbs?

Or are you just stretching the threads more?

 

[TimberHunter]

Pulled my first two Tikka barrels today. One was a barrel that had been removed before so I started with that one to get the setup right, knowing it wouldn’t likely be as tight as the factory barrel I’d attempt after. I used a Viper vise, cut in half (I purposefully cut it so one side was narrower than the other. Mounted the vise on a sturdy bench, used a toilet paper roll cut in half to wrap the barrel, then evenly tightened the vise with the narrow section on the taper and the wider section on the shank about as tight as I could physically get it with a a box end wrench. Wheeler #1 flipped over on the action with pieces of TP tube between action and wrench. Got the wrench tight, but not nearly as tight as the Viper bolts. Oriented the wrench so it was slightly facing downward. One good whack with a 4lb deadblow and it broke free.

I put some Kroil on that one right before I did it but it did not have time to penetrate much at all. Probably 20 minutes max.

The other was a brand new factory barrel. I added a few drops of Kroil daily for about a week with it hanging muzzle down before I tackled it. While I was working on the first one, I put it in the chest freezer. Once I mounted it in the vise, again with a TP tube, I heated the action over the threads with a heat gun. It was warm, but not glowing or anything like that. Got the Wheeler #1 snugged up and gave it a good whack. This one took 2 or 3 before it popped loose.

Overall, the advice here allowed me a drama free, non-marring experience. Thought I’d share for others who were considering doing this for the first time.

Never mind, above posts answered question


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[TimberHunter]

Having the ability to swap barrels may end up costing you money.

Truer words were never spoken


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[Stache Attack]

Seemed reasonable to me. Was not a factory barrel. Came off easily w external wrench.

Lee should take care of you email in it was torque on not removal and the stainless must be junk

If you torque their barrels higher than 75lbs, say 80 or 90 lbs., are you making the chamber smaller than it would be at 70-75lbs?

Shouldn’t if shouldered and you follow install specs. A lot of people run 90-110. I’m not a metallurgist but crush force on stainless should be well well below 110.

Always use external wrench to remove factory or prefit barrels

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

I’m solid on a vice already but the action wrench is something I would be interested in. Better grip and easier to use than my diy one.

 

[waspocrew]

Dang, looks like those posts were pulled regarding the new action wrench, vice, etc. Probably needed to be a sponsor account.

 

[hereinaz]

I missed the posts but interested if it was a cool tool…

I use an internal action wrench all the time and torque everything to 100 and call it good now. My personal stuff I did to 80 for years (when I checked torque) and never had a problem. Have you all seen the video with Jacob from Rifles Only using a pipe wrench and a hammer, people get way wrapped up in the axle on how much.

Having now removed dozens of factory barrels, I would be too afraid to use an internal action to remove a factory barrel. I want to get the custom external wrench @NSI has. I use a Brownells right now. It works. The amount of clamping force on the barrel with my SAC vice and the amount of “smack down” given to the external wrench is nerve wracking. I use a stubby handled sledge these days.