Tikka Barrel Removal and Install Tool Swap Thread

[Jimbee]

I'm planning to take some pictures and maybe put some illustrations and directions with my tools when I get a chance.

 

[HandgunHTR]

I'm planning to take some pictures and maybe put some illustrations and directions with my tools when I get a chance.

I meant to do that with my last removal, but forgot.

I believe that there is a thread started by @Dioni A that had his process documented. I will look for it and link it if I find it.

 

[HandgunHTR]

Found it. It was an article, not a thread. @Justin Crossley did start a thread that linked it.

DIY Tikka Barrel Swap - Rokslide

DIY Tikka Barrel Swap. Dioni walks through the tools and steps he used to do a DIY Tikka Barrel swap on his own hunting rifle.

www.rokslide.com

Here is the thread that was mentioned.

Thread 'DIY Tikka Barrel Swap, By Dioni Amuchastegui'

Oct 15, 2023

In this article, Dioni explains his process and the tools he used to do his own rifle build on a Tikka action. Check it out if you're thinking of doing your own rifle build.

DIY Tikka Barrel Swap

• Justin Crossley
• Replies: 192
• Forum: Firearms

• 

 

[HandgunHTR]

1. For a Tikka T3x, The action wrench goes on like this. The round side goes against the underside of the action (where the trigger is) with the threaded handle receptacle facing out. Then flip the smaller piece over so the flat side of that piece grabs the top of the action where it’s flat. Snug the bolts up hand tight and then tighten firmly with a wrench. 1/2 to 3/4 turn on the bolts. Just enough to keep the wrench from slipping. Then thread the wrench handle into the receptacle. Some use a business card or file card to protect the barrel, but I didn’t and had no marring on a stainless barrel. This is a #2 wrench and should also fit R700 actions but that’s hearsay, no actual experience, YMMV.

Just a note on the action wrench. A Wheeler #2 is for a Remington 700 action, which is why both sides have a rounded section.
A better wrench to use is a Wheeler #1. The bottom of a Mauser (or Win70) action is flat, so the bottom section is flat on that. The top section has a rounded cutout, but as stated above, when flipped over it is flat as well. You will need longer bolts that what are supplied with the wrench (they are 1/2-20 bolts).
While the number 2 does work, as evidenced by many using them, the number 1 allows for the wrench to be flat against the Tikka receiver on both sides, which significantly reduces the change of marring the corners if you tighten it too much, and it allows for more rotational force to be put on the action when removing. It also means that you can put it on in any configuration you wish. My preferred method is to put the barreled action in the vise such that the dovetail is top-dead-center and then mount the wrench so it is flat against the sides of the action (handle to the left at 90-degrees). This allows me to really whack the crap out of the handle with my deadblow hammer.

Just wanted to throw that out there.

 

[EastHumboldt]

I have Jimbee’s barrel swap tools which work for a T3xl. Anybody need them?

I reposted this because I think the fact that they’re available may have gotten lost in my last post, which explained some things about using them for first time swappers.

 

[Nine Banger]

Here's some pics of the #1 at work today.

Shot out 22-250 barrel.

Tried to convey why its a better choice than #2 unless you mess around with 700 clones as well.

Also another trick: put the action wrench on the action in a vise. Its not the only beeyatch that wants to spin on you. I put it on right on and rearward of the smoke hole or whatever that is really called.

 

[SteveAndTheCrigBoys]

Anyone in the Seattle/Tacoma area with tools?

Had a smith that said he could do it today who's flaking on me as of now.

Edit: nevermind. He read my AM texts and eventually got back to me in the afternoon. Got over there and got the barrel installed.

 

[Jaegerr]

Gonna hijack the thread a little. Can anyone help me out with headspace? I have a go gauge on a my first tikka and first barrel swap. The Manson go gauge when setting it in the little opening for the ejector and down in the extractor, when I first cycle it it feels slightly heavy then the subsequent bolt cycles feel or less like cycling an empty chamber aside from I can definitely feel and tell a slight difference in resistance with the go gauge inserted versus an empty chamber. Is the gauge just settling into the bolt face? All the guides and videos are on Remington type actions and they say it should fall into battery but the tikka as I assume many know rotates forward slightly when operating the bolt. I just wanna make sure I don’t make a bomb when my ammo comes in next week

It’s a factory 7 PRC barrel I swapped on what usto be a factory 300 WM I bought new.

 

[NSI]

Gonna hijack the thread a little. Can anyone help me out with headspace? I have a go gauge on a my first tikka and first barrel swap. The Manson go gauge when setting it in the little opening for the ejector and down in the extractor, when I first cycle it it feels slightly heavy then the subsequent bolt cycles feel or less like cycling an empty chamber aside from I can definitely feel and tell a slight difference in resistance with the go gauge inserted versus an empty chamber. Is the gauge just settling into the bolt face? All the guides and videos are on Remington type actions and they say it should fall into battery but the tikka as I assume many know rotates forward slightly when operating the bolt. I just wanna make sure I don’t make a bomb when my ammo comes in next week

It’s a factory 7 PRC barrel I swapped on what usto be a factory 300 WM I bought new.

Ideally you’d knock out the ejector roll pin before doing this. But from your description you’re fine.

-J

 

[Jaegerr]

I also have all the tools and now a 7 PRC go gauge
Wheeler wrench
Viper vise with both tops
Bug holes internal action wrench

 

[mtnbound]

Gonna hijack the thread a little. Can anyone help me out with headspace? I have a go gauge on a my first tikka and first barrel swap. The Manson go gauge when setting it in the little opening for the ejector and down in the extractor, when I first cycle it it feels slightly heavy then the subsequent bolt cycles feel or less like cycling an empty chamber aside from I can definitely feel and tell a slight difference in resistance with the go gauge inserted versus an empty chamber. Is the gauge just settling into the bolt face? All the guides and videos are on Remington type actions and they say it should fall into battery but the tikka as I assume many know rotates forward slightly when operating the bolt. I just wanna make sure I don’t make a bomb when my ammo comes in next week

It’s a factory 7 PRC barrel I swapped on what usto be a factory 300 WM I bought new.

I assume you do not have a no-go gauge so I would add 1 or 2 pieces of scotch tape the go-gauge just to confirm you got it.

 

[Jaegerr]

Rifle in question!

 

[EastHumboldt]

Anybody here have a T3 stainless 7-08 barrel that you don’t want?