Tikka Barrel Removal and Install Tool Swap Thread

[HandgunHTR]

Since this thread is for DIY gunsmiths, anybody ever thread a barrel? Is it as simple as threading a piece of 1/2” gas pipe with a Ridgid pipe threading die? I’ve been happy for close to 40 years shooting un-suppressed rifles, but I have feeling I’d be twice as happy shooting suppressed.

No, it is not that simple at all. You will need a lathe to do threads, unless you enjoy sending your suppressor off to have it put back together after a baffle strike.

 

[Long84]

I'd like to get in line for these tools. I'm currently waiting to get my barrel back from threading. While I wait on that. What do I need to do to secure a spot?

For what it's worth. I'm located in Upstate South Carolina. If there is anyone within an 1 hour drive of Clemson, I'll gladly pay the rental fees, and just pick up and deliver the tools personally.

 

[EastHumboldt]

I’m apparently next in line for Jimbee’s tools when Txag is done with them, hopefully this week. I’m told I can use a .308 go-no-go gauge set for the 7mm-08 barrel we’re putting on my brothers 30-06 T3x. Anyone have a gauge set I can borrow?

 

[MuleyFever]

Im out of the rotation. Don't need them anymore.

 

[EastHumboldt]

Can I use a spent cartridge fom my other 7-08 for a go gauge?

 

[HandgunHTR]

Can I use a spent cartridge fom my other 7-08 for a go gauge?

That depends. What rifle was that cartridge shot out of?

If you were putting on a barrel-nut set-up, I would say "go for it" as you can thread the barrel in or out a bit to customize your headspace, but for a shouldered prefit, all you are really doing with a spent cartridge is verifying that it will fit. If the headspace is a bit long in the gun it was shot out of, you may end up having it not chamber. If the headspace is short on the chamber it was shot in, you may be led to believe that the barrel you are checking has excessive headspace. Also, brass will flex, unlike an actual gauge, so that may also introduce some error.

You can always rent (or buy) the gauge from 4D. https://4drentals.com/product/reamer-rentals/rifle/308-winchester/

I would be happy to let you use mine, but it is being borrowed right now and I am not sure when I am going to get it back.

 

[EastHumboldt]

That depends. What rifle was that cartridge shot out of?

If you were putting on a barrel-nut set-up, I would say "go for it" as you can thread the barrel in or out a bit to customize your headspace, but for a shouldered prefit, all you are really doing with a spent cartridge is verifying that it will fit. If the headspace is a bit long in the gun it was shot out of, you may end up having it not chamber. If the headspace is short on the chamber it was shot in, you may be led to believe that the barrel you are checking has excessive headspace. Also, brass will flex, unlike an actual gauge, so that may also introduce some error.

You can always rent (or buy) the gauge from 4D. https://4drentals.com/product/reamer-rentals/rifle/308-winchester/

I would be happy to let you use mine, but it is being borrowed right now and I am not sure when I am going to get it back.

Thanks . The rifle getting the new barrel (Rifle 1) is a Tikka T3x, as is the rifle I would use for a fired cartridge (Rifle 2). That’s why I asked the question, because my limited knowledge coupled with some research has led me to believe we’re talking shouldered pre-fits. My assumption is that you just thread the barrel until it bottoms out against the shoulder, torque to spec, and that is that. The headspace gauges are just to check that you do have it bottomed… right?

Let’s talk about Rifle 2. A 2 year old T3x with about 400 rounds through it. Because I was having some issues with tight bolt closure on some factory ammo I had it checked by a gunsmith. It was tight on a go gauge, and would not close on a go+.001 gauge. He polished the mating face of the lugs, and now it closes easily on a go gauge, closes tight on a go +.001 gauge. It closes much better on the factory ammo in question, just the tiniest bit snug. So that chamber is on the tight end of SAAMI spec. But still within spec.

I have in hand once and twice fired cases from rifle 2, new unfired PPU brass, new Hornady 139 American Whitetail factory ammo, and a Hornady headspace comparator set with a good accurate Starrett dial caliper. I’m thinking I should be able to get an idea of chamber fit on the new barrel installed on rifle 1, without spending $100 bucks on a go-no-go set that I may not use for 5 years or more. If the cases/ammo fit …. Fire form a couple rounds in the new barrel and use the comparator to compare them, looking for signs of excessive brass growth.

But if it’s dangerous or stupid to think this way I’ll just get the headspace gauges and have them to loan out.

 

[EastHumboldt]

Did I read that right it’s only $8 to rent a go-no-go set?

 

[HandgunHTR]

Did I read that right it’s only $8 to rent a go-no-go set?

The purpose of checking the headspace is to ensure that whomever chambered the barrel didn't run the reamer in too deep, therefore creating excessive headspace. Based on your description of Rifle 2, you could probably use the 2X fired case to check, however if the chamber is tight at the case head rather than the headspace datum, that could give you a false read.

As for the rental, that is correct. It is $8 plus shipping both ways, of course.

To buy is only like $30, and you only need the go-gauge. To test no-go, just put a piece of Scotch Tape on the base of the gauge, trim it up to fit and try to close. It may close on one piece of tape, it should not close on 2. Also, something to remember when checking headspace, you will need to remove the ejector from the bolt.

 

[rclouse79]

This is the first time I have seen this thread, pretty cool. Based on the fact I don’t plan on swapping any more barrels and seeing the price of all the tools, the $88 the gun shop charged me doesn’t seem half bad.

 

[EastHumboldt]

This is the first time I have seen this thread, pretty cool. Based on the fact I don’t plan on swapping any more barrels and seeing the price of all the tools, the $88 the gun shop charged me doesn’t seem half bad.

Where did you get it done for $88 ?

The purpose of checking the headspace is to ensure that whomever chambered the barrel didn't run the reamer in too deep, therefore creating excessive headspace. Based on your description of Rifle 2, you could probably use the 2X fired case to check, however if the chamber is tight at the case head rather than the headspace datum, that could give you a false read.

As for the rental, that is correct. It is $8 plus shipping both ways, of course.

To buy is only like $30, and you only need the go-gauge. To test no-go, just put a piece of Scotch Tape on the base of the gauge, trim it up to fit and try to close. It may close on one piece of tape, it should not close on 2. Also, something to remember when checking headspace, you will need to remove the ejector from the bolt.

Scotch tape….why didn’t I think of that. I think I’ll just order a go gauge from midway.

 

[rclouse79]

Where did you get it done for $88 ?

Scotch tape….why didn’t I think of that. I think I’ll just order a go gauge from midway.

Buckhorn gun shop in Boise Idaho. No marks on the barrel they took off and the new one shoots like a peach, so I am happy.

 

[Kuda427]

Anyone here know if it is possible le to take a 6.5 cm and connert to a prc on a Tikka UPR

 

[Nine Banger]

Anyone here know if it is possible le to take a 6.5 cm and connert to a prc on a Tikka UPR

You need a different bolt (magnum), a long action bolt stop and a 300 win mag magazine.

 

[Kuda427]

Is it a difficult job?

 

[Nine Banger]

Is it a difficult job?

No.

The barrel swap or rechambering would be the most strenuous task. The other stuff will just pop in place but you'd have to trade for a bolt.

You're probably better off buying a 6.5 PRC Tikka and putting it in your stock.

Or buying a 300 win mag to put an aftermarket 6.5 PRC barrel on.

 

[Harvey_NW]

you'd have to trade for a bolt.

Or have it opened up, my gunsmith charges $120.

 

[Njadams13]

Anyone near Scottsbluff, Nebraska or Cheyenne Wyoming available to help me pull a factory barrel? My old wheeler barrel vise doesn’t seem up to the task, completely crushed two sets of oak blocks with the barrel still spinning using rosin. Can’t seem to find my other wheeler head either so I only have one flat of contact the way I have it.

 

[Kuda427]

Well
I just ended up buying the New Tikka Ace Game in 6.5 prc
Guess I got both now..lol

 

[EastHumboldt]

I have Jimbee’s tools. They worked great on my tikka T3xl.

Internal action wrench
Wheeler #2 action wrench
Tapered 6 bolt barrel vise

Anybody need them?

I was a little confused by the action wrench at first so I’ve posted some notes that may be helpful to those doing this for the first time. Once I figured out the action wrench, the operation was a snap.

A couple notes for inexperienced barrel swappers

I had to do a little internet research to figure out how to use the action wrench.

1. For a Tikka T3x, The action wrench goes on like this. The round side goes against the underside of the action (where the trigger is) with the threaded handle receptacle facing out. Then flip the smaller piece over so the flat side of that piece grabs the top of the action where it’s flat. Snug the bolts up hand tight and then tighten firmly with a wrench. 1/2 to 3/4 turn on the bolts. Just enough to keep the wrench from slipping. Then thread the wrench handle into the receptacle. Some use a business card or file card to protect the barrel, but I didn’t and had no marring on a stainless barrel. This is a #2 wrench and should also fit R700 actions but that’s hearsay, no actual experience, YMMV.

1. I used a 3’ cheater bar ( a piece of 1-1/4” EMT conduit I had laying around). I whacked it 3 times where the end of the wrench handle was, with a 2 lb. maul, then just pulled with the cheater and it came loose.

1. Barrel vise. For a standard tikka sporter barrel (in my case fluted T3xl 30-06 off and fluted T3xl 7mm-08 on) this barrel vise fits well with the upper edge 2-1/4” from the joint where the barrel meets the action. I wrapped my barrels with paper Sheetrock tape and then made a mark at 2-1/4” from the joint. I then torqued the barrel vise bolts to 40 ft/lbs. Neither barrel slipped or was marred.

1. The internal action wrench slides into the action just like your bolt. Then you use a 3/4 “ socket and a torque wrench to torque your action onto the barrel to 85 ft/lbs. Word on the street is you could go less… say 65 if you think you might be taking that barrel off in the future. Don’t forget to grease the male part of the barrel threads with 64/33MS, before threading the barrel into the action.