Tikka Barrel Removal and Install Tool Swap Thread

I'm planning to take some pictures and maybe put some illustrations and directions with my tools when I get a chance.
 
I'm planning to take some pictures and maybe put some illustrations and directions with my tools when I get a chance.

I meant to do that with my last removal, but forgot.

I believe that there is a thread started by @Dioni A that had his process documented. I will look for it and link it if I find it.
 
Found it. It was an article, not a thread. @Justin Crossley did start a thread that linked it.


Here is the thread that was mentioned.
 
  1. For a Tikka T3x, The action wrench goes on like this. The round side goes against the underside of the action (where the trigger is) with the threaded handle receptacle facing out. Then flip the smaller piece over so the flat side of that piece grabs the top of the action where it’s flat. Snug the bolts up hand tight and then tighten firmly with a wrench. 1/2 to 3/4 turn on the bolts. Just enough to keep the wrench from slipping. Then thread the wrench handle into the receptacle. Some use a business card or file card to protect the barrel, but I didn’t and had no marring on a stainless barrel. This is a #2 wrench and should also fit R700 actions but that’s hearsay, no actual experience, YMMV.
Just a note on the action wrench. A Wheeler #2 is for a Remington 700 action, which is why both sides have a rounded section.
A better wrench to use is a Wheeler #1. The bottom of a Mauser (or Win70) action is flat, so the bottom section is flat on that. The top section has a rounded cutout, but as stated above, when flipped over it is flat as well. You will need longer bolts that what are supplied with the wrench (they are 1/2-20 bolts).
While the number 2 does work, as evidenced by many using them, the number 1 allows for the wrench to be flat against the Tikka receiver on both sides, which significantly reduces the change of marring the corners if you tighten it too much, and it allows for more rotational force to be put on the action when removing. It also means that you can put it on in any configuration you wish. My preferred method is to put the barreled action in the vise such that the dovetail is top-dead-center and then mount the wrench so it is flat against the sides of the action (handle to the left at 90-degrees). This allows me to really whack the crap out of the handle with my deadblow hammer.

Just wanted to throw that out there.
 
I have Jimbee’s barrel swap tools which work for a T3xl. Anybody need them?

I reposted this because I think the fact that they’re available may have gotten lost in my last post, which explained some things about using them for first time swappers.
 
Here's some pics of the #1 at work today.

Shot out 22-250 barrel.

Tried to convey why its a better choice than #2 unless you mess around with 700 clones as well.

Also another trick: put the action wrench on the action in a vise. Its not the only beeyatch that wants to spin on you. I put it on right on and rearward of the smoke hole or whatever that is really called.
 

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Anyone in the Seattle/Tacoma area with tools?

Had a smith that said he could do it today who's flaking on me as of now.

Edit: nevermind. He read my AM texts and eventually got back to me in the afternoon. Got over there and got the barrel installed.
 
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