- Joined
- Sep 28, 2023
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- 1,345
My observation was short 6.5cm brass resized had quite a bit of brass to trim off to get back to 1.920.What evidence do you have to show that the thickness increases at the case mouth and can be trimmed off?
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My observation was short 6.5cm brass resized had quite a bit of brass to trim off to get back to 1.920.What evidence do you have to show that the thickness increases at the case mouth and can be trimmed off?
I realize I am a bit late to the discussion here, but...It looks like 39.5gr H4350 is the end of the road for the 77s in my 18" barrel...around 3120fps.
I adjusted my sizing die just beyond the point where brass would not chamber and got the flat primers to go away.
I put the same load in my "once fired" brass that was formed before the die adjustment and the primers are flat but the bolt was not sticky.
I had stiff bolt lift and marks at 40gr and 40.5gr powder with the new size brass.
This barrel has around 160 rounds on it now.
I have a 19" 22-250 barrel here that will make the same speed with same projectile just under 37gr powder.
They are White River Energetics.What primers are you using?
They are White River Energetics.
Have you tried some proper head stamped brass or tried Turning the necks on your current?They are White River Energetics.
Yeah man!650 yard buck using 80 grn ELDX.
Douple shoulder penetration and exit. Travelled 15 yards. Excellent performance.
20" barrel and 3250 fps. Dialed 9MOA for shot.
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I bought some factory ammo. It worked.Have you tried some proper head stamped brass or tried Turning the necks on your current?
Compare the factory loaded necks to your loaded necks, that’s your answer. More clearance. Diameter not lengthI bought some factory ammo. It worked.
I don't want to buy the tools to neck turn brass. It seems like one of those reloading rabbit hole activities.
It seems like third the firing might be the charm. I had to trim heavy each time then it held size. Still not worth it tho, kind of like fire forming. I'll play around with it a little bit more and then probably order a few hundred rounds of factory ammo to get brass if I'm still having issues.
Most of my shooting lately has been 223 and 22-250 because I loaded a bunch of 22-250 right before this barrel showed up.
Good workDidn't take long to get my 22cm working, 6 3/4 bear!
More to come on specs but I'm only pushing the 80gr ELDX ~2980 with 40.0 of H4350 in Alpha LRP w/ CCI200 out of an 18" barrel. The jump is .080 as I had them spec it to an 88 ELDM dummy.
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I was right around 3090 or so with new barrel and virgin brass. Even now with the barrel fully broken in, a new batch of virgin brass dropped back down to 3135, from 3194 on twice fired.Yes, new brass, new barrel, only 50 rounds so far, what were your initial speeds?
Side note, the OBI Pad and the vertical butt pad adjuster for the HNT26 is dreamy.
I have a question? I'm seeing way more velocity with actual vs Gordan's reloading tool. I've attached a quick picture of a table that captures it. I'm not seeing any pressure signs, but he velocities are well above what GRT calculates. This is 2x shot brass. Stay here or go higher?View attachment 888686
I have a question? I'm seeing way more velocity with actual vs Gordan's reloading tool. I've attached a quick picture of a table that captures it. I'm not seeing any pressure signs, but he velocities are well above what GRT calculates. This is 2x shot brass. Stay here or go higher?View attachment 888686
Alpha brass (just like Lapua) hides pressure signs pretty well, especially if it is SRP brass.
Primer pockets are most likely going to be your best indicator. If they start to loosen up on the next couple of firings, you should probably drop down a grain. If not, then rock on and be happy that you have a fast barrel.